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the drbIII is the dealership scan tool specific for the 90’s/early 2000’s dodge vehicles. its a handheld tool and is portable but the dealership wont let it leave the shop. the other tool that i know for a fact has the ability is the OTC genisys 5.0. awesome tool and very common (mac and matco also make the same tool its just a different name but i believe all 3 are supported by SPX)
the drbIII is the dealership scan tool specific for the 90’s/early 2000’s dodge vehicles. its a handheld tool and is portable but the dealership wont let it leave the shop. the other tool that i know for a fact has the ability is the OTC genisys 5.0. awesome tool and very common (mac and matco also make the same tool its just a different name but i believe all 3 are supported by SPX)
that should be close enough. the distributor is extremly sensitive so you might have to tweek it just a tiny bit to get it to go. the only way you can really find out is by seeing if it will start. once it gets running you can adjust it to get it to settle down a little bit but you’ll never get it exact. it’ll get you to the shop though. if it needs any adjusting after you start it, adjust it in tiny incriments (just the flex in the disributor shaft will throw it off a couple degrees so be careful or you will kill the engine and youll have to start over).
that should be close enough. the distributor is extremly sensitive so you might have to tweek it just a tiny bit to get it to go. the only way you can really find out is by seeing if it will start. once it gets running you can adjust it to get it to settle down a little bit but you’ll never get it exact. it’ll get you to the shop though. if it needs any adjusting after you start it, adjust it in tiny incriments (just the flex in the disributor shaft will throw it off a couple degrees so be careful or you will kill the engine and youll have to start over).
putting headers on wouldnt mess with the engine enough to kill it. it just reduces the back pressure in the engine a little bit. like i said not enough to make that big of a difference.
putting headers on wouldnt mess with the engine enough to kill it. it just reduces the back pressure in the engine a little bit. like i said not enough to make that big of a difference.
10W-30 conventional (dont use synthetic) is what i use to break in new engines. Valvoline is my prefered brand of conventional. when i break in new engines, i usualy put about 250 EASY miles on it (basicaly a full tank of gas). i know some people beat on their engines during the break in period. i never do. i take it slow and easy. once a full tank is burnt through, do another oil change with 10w-30 conventional. i usualy run that for about 1500-2000 miles. after that you can switch to other oils like synthetic or a 5w-30 and run it from there on, just like normal change it every 3000 miles.
and btw, it doesnt have to be the DRBIII. most bi-directional scan tools can adjust fuel sync as long as the shop has the vehicle specific options on the scanner.
hope that helps
10W-30 conventional (dont use synthetic) is what i use to break in new engines. Valvoline is my prefered brand of conventional. when i break in new engines, i usualy put about 250 EASY miles on it (basicaly a full tank of gas). i know some people beat on their engines during the break in period. i never do. i take it slow and easy. once a full tank is burnt through, do another oil change with 10w-30 conventional. i usualy run that for about 1500-2000 miles. after that you can switch to other oils like synthetic or a 5w-30 and run it from there on, just like normal change it every 3000 miles.
and btw, it doesnt have to be the DRBIII. most bi-directional scan tools can adjust fuel sync as long as the shop has the vehicle specific options on the scanner.
hope that helps
glad to help. btw i have access to the 1999 dodge ram factory service manual so if there are any other questions about getting that engine back in, let me know and i’ll try to help the best i can.
glad to help. btw i have access to the 1999 dodge ram factory service manual so if there are any other questions about getting that engine back in, let me know and i’ll try to help the best i can.
if you’re hooking it up to a stock computer, then the ignition timing is preset in the computer. usualy adjusted with a bi-direction computer analyzer or a tuner. other than that, the 5.9 timing CANT be adjusted. adjusting the distributor affects FUEL SYNC. which is read with a bi directional tool.
This is copied from the 99 dodge factory service manual:
CAUTION: Base ignition timing is not adjustable on
any engine. Distributors do not have built in centrifugal
or vacuum assisted advance. Base ignition
timing and timing advance are controlled by the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Because a conventional
timing light can not be used to adjust distributor
position after installation, note position of
distributor before removal.(1) Connect DRB scan tool to data link connector.
The data link connector is located in passenger compartment,
below and to left of steering column.
(2) Gain access to SET SYNC screen on DRB.
(3) Follow directions on DRB screen and start
engine. Bring to operating temperature (engine must
be in “closed loop” mode).
(4) With engine running at idle speed, the words
IN RANGE should appear on screen along with 0°.
This indicates correct distributor position.
(5) If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to
degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not
zero, loosen but do not remove distributor holddown
clamp bolt. Rotate distributor until IN RANGE
appears on screen. Continue to rotate distributor
until achieving as close to 0° as possible. After
adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5 N·m (200 in.
lbs.) torque.
The degree scale on SET SYNC screen of DRB is
referring to fuel synchronization only. It is not
referring to ignition timing. Because of this, do
not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this
method. Rotating distributor will have no effect on
ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled
by powertrain control module (PCM).
After testing, install air cleaner assembly.the DRBIII is a chrysler specific scan tool. most scan tools that are bi-directional have this function. you may have to take it to a shop to have it set. just make sure you tell them that they CAN NOT ADJUST IGNITION TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT. its a common mistake with people that work on dodge trucks. most of my automotive training is based around the second generation dodge ram so i’ve seen this come up MANY times. i cant count the amount of times ive had to fix fuel sync because alot of mechanics dont know about the fuel sync VS ignition timing adjustments.
hope that helps
if you’re hooking it up to a stock computer, then the ignition timing is preset in the computer. usualy adjusted with a bi-direction computer analyzer or a tuner. other than that, the 5.9 timing CANT be adjusted. adjusting the distributor affects FUEL SYNC. which is read with a bi directional tool.
This is copied from the 99 dodge factory service manual:
CAUTION: Base ignition timing is not adjustable on
any engine. Distributors do not have built in centrifugal
or vacuum assisted advance. Base ignition
timing and timing advance are controlled by the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Because a conventional
timing light can not be used to adjust distributor
position after installation, note position of
distributor before removal.(1) Connect DRB scan tool to data link connector.
The data link connector is located in passenger compartment,
below and to left of steering column.
(2) Gain access to SET SYNC screen on DRB.
(3) Follow directions on DRB screen and start
engine. Bring to operating temperature (engine must
be in “closed loop” mode).
(4) With engine running at idle speed, the words
IN RANGE should appear on screen along with 0°.
This indicates correct distributor position.
(5) If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to
degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not
zero, loosen but do not remove distributor holddown
clamp bolt. Rotate distributor until IN RANGE
appears on screen. Continue to rotate distributor
until achieving as close to 0° as possible. After
adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5 N·m (200 in.
lbs.) torque.
The degree scale on SET SYNC screen of DRB is
referring to fuel synchronization only. It is not
referring to ignition timing. Because of this, do
not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this
method. Rotating distributor will have no effect on
ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled
by powertrain control module (PCM).
After testing, install air cleaner assembly.the DRBIII is a chrysler specific scan tool. most scan tools that are bi-directional have this function. you may have to take it to a shop to have it set. just make sure you tell them that they CAN NOT ADJUST IGNITION TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT. its a common mistake with people that work on dodge trucks. most of my automotive training is based around the second generation dodge ram so i’ve seen this come up MANY times. i cant count the amount of times ive had to fix fuel sync because alot of mechanics dont know about the fuel sync VS ignition timing adjustments.
hope that helps
is it the same engine that you pulled out earlier with the fuel pressure issue or a new engine? i ask because the 360 crate is an LA stle block and has a different fuel and ignition system
is it the same engine that you pulled out earlier with the fuel pressure issue or a new engine? i ask because the 360 crate is an LA stle block and has a different fuel and ignition system
not sure exactly on that car but for the most part its pretty similar on most cars.
1. take tires off
2. find the sway bar links (should look like a small rod connecting a bar to the control arm)
3. get an impact wrench (if you dont have one, buy one. its worth the money and almost a MUST if you do this job) and loosen the top nut holding it to the control arm. (if you cant get the nuts loose without the shaft spinning, you may need to cut it out with a sawzall or a small cutting wheel, or you can try to use a nut splitter if theres room)
4. do the same thing for the nut holding it to the sway bar (if you have to, you can put a floor jack under the control arm to put pressure on the sway bar link. it sometimes helps to loosen the bolts without the whole shaft spinning)
5. using the floor jack, raise/lower the control arm until the new swaw bar link fits into the holes.
6. using the impact wrench, tighten the nuts down until the bushings start to buldge out a bit
thatll get you in the ball park. there maybe some extra steps involved with that perticular car but for the most part its a pretty straight forward job. look at it enough and it will make sense as you start taking it apart. do one side at a time so you can look at the other side to figure out how it goes back together if you forget.
hope that helps
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