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over here in Minnesota–we carry plugs for our sleds in our pocket! not sure what a bad Motorcraft plug looks like and wish I could post a pic!
over here in Minnesota–we carry plugs for our sleds in our pocket! not sure what a bad Motorcraft plug looks like and wish I could post a pic!
Threw in a set of NGK spark plugs, gaps checked and cured the problem. Running great! Not used to plugs going bad that are not fouled. Thanks Folks!
Threw in a set of NGK spark plugs, gaps checked and cured the problem. Running great! Not used to plugs going bad that are not fouled. Thanks Folks!
Bear with me and again–great unbiased interst in this! Code 304 came back this morning after about 35 miles–going for the spark plugs next–prolly shudda started there first. But hey–never used a code reader to diagnose engine issues and am enjoying the process of learning. Just can’t say enough about how everyone here just puts it out there! Like the man says “stay dirty”! I almost want to keep this website a secret! great info on the timing chains, engine knock at start-up, fuel rail and injectors!
Bear with me and again–great unbiased interst in this! Code 304 came back this morning after about 35 miles–going for the spark plugs next–prolly shudda started there first. But hey–never used a code reader to diagnose engine issues and am enjoying the process of learning. Just can’t say enough about how everyone here just puts it out there! Like the man says “stay dirty”! I almost want to keep this website a secret! great info on the timing chains, engine knock at start-up, fuel rail and injectors!
Thanks for all the replies folks! Much obliged! Just an FYI—cleared the code, swapped COP with next cylinder, noted no appearence of coolant hose leaks above #4. check engine light briefly came on, then went out on the 25 mile drive home but definetly noticed a difference. The misfire defintely feels like it’s on a different cylinder.
Wondering if the short check engine light duration left a code to read and will check again tomorrow.
I find this all very interesting as I never really looked at this 4.6L engine, as it ran great and now I am seeing how different an engine this is than I am used too. Old school cap, rotor and plug wire guy. Kinda like the ease of the COP idea and the location of the injectors.
Noticing all this always leads to more questions-
– what to watch out for when removing the fuel rail
– what kinda project is the timing belt scenario—and how many miles they last.
Lastly, I will buy the repair manual tomorrow–along with the COP.
Great unbiased information is to be found here and am glad to have found Eric’s web sight! Awesome!Thanks for all the replies folks! Much obliged! Just an FYI—cleared the code, swapped COP with next cylinder, noted no appearence of coolant hose leaks above #4. check engine light briefly came on, then went out on the 25 mile drive home but definetly noticed a difference. The misfire defintely feels like it’s on a different cylinder.
Wondering if the short check engine light duration left a code to read and will check again tomorrow.
I find this all very interesting as I never really looked at this 4.6L engine, as it ran great and now I am seeing how different an engine this is than I am used too. Old school cap, rotor and plug wire guy. Kinda like the ease of the COP idea and the location of the injectors.
Noticing all this always leads to more questions-
– what to watch out for when removing the fuel rail
– what kinda project is the timing belt scenario—and how many miles they last.
Lastly, I will buy the repair manual tomorrow–along with the COP.
Great unbiased information is to be found here and am glad to have found Eric’s web sight! Awesome!