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Well I just bought a Magnaflow from Summit…ran me $500. Checked the part no. (#546083) with the manufacturer and on the CARB database and everything checks out. Are you saying it still won’t work and I need to buy the $900 one from Honda?
From my own experience, I wouldn’t get anything below 12 gal. My first compressor was a 10 gal. Harbor Freight roller with a cheap Harbor Freight impact (HF compressor quality was good, can’t say the same for the impact). I only used it for basic jobs like taking off a wheel or breaking axle nuts, but I still found it was turning on every 4-5 times I pulled the trigger. The sound of an air compressor running inside a garage gets real old real fast. It got to the point where I would tire myself out pulling on tight bolts with a ratchet before I would give in and roll out the headache machine, and before long I wasn’t using it much and decided to sell it.
Then I bought a much bigger more expensive IR compressor (don’t remember exact size right now) and get much more use out of that since I can do any job on one charge. It cost about 4 times as much as the 10 gal. from Harbor Freight, but I’ve definitely gotten my money’s worth with the IR, which wasn’t the case at all with the HF. Hope this helpsWhen I was first starting out with cars before I had a jack or jack stands I had to borrow my friends ramps. One day I decided to wash my car right before pulling onto the ramps. As I reversed the rear onto the ramps, the wet tires suddenly lost grip and the weight of the car coming down sent the ramps shooting backwards into the wall. Even tho it was my own fault, I will never use a ramp again
Another time I was doing a brake job on my friend’s F100 and I had him pumping the brake pedal while I minded the bottle as it bled the lines out. It was weird because I would put some in and almost nothing would come out after 3 pumps. So I checked the brake master cylinder and it was already completely empty. 2 times I repeated this process, only for a shimmer of brown to catch my eye and cause me to look up and see 2 bottles worth of brake fluid all over the floor. Then I realized I had forgotten to tighten the bleeder nuts on the other calipers I had already done…..still feel stupid just talking about it. Had a great time cleaning that up
[quote=”Fopeano” post=127792]You’re describing an aggressive valve cover gasket leak, which like Chevyman insinuated, is probably leaking onto the exhaust manifold.[/quote] +1 on the valve cover gasket leak. We just fixed the exact same problem today on my friend’s TT 300ZX. Had the same symptoms as yours and immediately after we put it all back together the problem was gone. Hopefully your car doesn’t have an intake manifold covering the valve cover though lol. Good luck
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=131317]The best and safest way to check for a vacuum leak is to, with the engine running, spray throttle body cleaner along the intake tubing, trying to get underneath. Where the intake meets the cylinder head and throttle body and just anywhere with a vacuum line. Also make sure that all the connections along the intake tubing are tight, I’ve seen it a few times where something is left loose and it’s enough.[/quote]
Just to be a little more clear, the purpose of spraying the cleaner along vacuum lines is to listen for idle changes, so you’ll need to start the car before you do this, otherwise you’re just spraying T/B cleaner in your engine bay for no reason. Start the car, spray around the vacuum lines or where you suspect the leak is coming from, and listen for the engine revs to change. If they do, you’ve found a source. However there could be more than one leak, so you should always keep going just to be sure.
Just a tip, do this with a cold engine. Don’t do it as you come home from a drive while the engine’s hot, or you run the risk of starting a fire. Don’t want that. Also, it might quicken things up to begin around the intake manifold, working your way away from the engine, and eventually covering all vacuum lines.
This is just in case you want to double check for leaks before you conclude there are none. Hopefully that’s all it is
You’ll need to drain the entire brake system asap. The first thing power steering fluid will do is disintegrate the rubber port seals inside your brake master cylinder. They will expand until they’re blocking the ports inside the master cylinder and keeping the fluid from returning from the lines. In other words, the brakes will be permanently engaged and you’ll be stuck wherever you are (hopefully you weren’t moving too fast when the bakes locked up).
Various websites say to immediately disassemble your brake lines, wash them out and replace all rubber parts, as damage to the rubber parts begins as soon as you put the power steering fluid in there. However, I don’t think this is necessary as long as it hasn’t been too long since she did it and she hasn’t driven too much. I’ll let you be the judge of that. But regardless, you definitely need to completely flush out the system, and there are a few threads on here as well as an ETCG video on how to do that right. It wouldn’t hurt to check out any rubber components you think are worth looking at as well. And lastly, when you finish flushing the system, make sure the right fluid goes in there lol
ETCG video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5O_pbC8R2E
Hope this helps & good luck!
Without getting too caught up in the details, I prefer draining. My first and foremost reason is that I’m a home mechanic who can’t afford to buy specialty tools to do things I can do by simpler and cheaper means (oil extractor, various impact guns, brake piston compressors). Even though the average oil extractor setup is only about $50-$80, purchases like that build up over time, for me at least.
Secondly, I find that it doesn’t exactly save much time. Granted, it takes a period of time to jack up the car and get under and crack the drain plug versus simply popping a hose through the top of the engine, but it takes warm oil about as much time to drain out as it does to pump the oil out, at least in my experience. In terms of cleanliness, that’s a different story. You’re definitely more prone to spillages and dripping when draining than you are when using a pump.
Finally, I will ultimately favor the dirtier, more hands-on method over the clean and easy way. I think we can all agree that while using a C-clamp and an old brake pad to compress a caliper is more trouble than simply breaking out your piston compressor and screwing it down, you feel a greater sense of fulfillment when you finish. Same goes for oil changes. It’s much more satisfying to crawl under a car and drain your oil with a wrench and a pan than it is to do so with a tank a plastic hose and a bike pump handle, even if it is as basic a job as this.
Now, I’m just a home mechanic. I only work on my own car as well as those of friends and family, so I don’t necessarily find myself looking to save time and mess everywhere I can. Ultimately, I have no problem cleaning up a spill with a towel and kitty litter and letting it sit for a couple days. But for those who work on cars on a professional level and need to be able to get things done quickly and easily, they might prefer using a vacuum, and understandably so. This is just my own opinion as someone who doesn’t have things like a job and a paycheck to worry about when it comes to cars.
I agree with Chevyman. I live in California so believe me when I say I’m a little tired of the govt. making rules pertaining to every aspect of life. But texting is a serious problem today, and while I think we’re doing as much as we possibly can to educate younger people about the dangers of it, I think that in the end those people are going to do it no matter what. At least this way they understand the risk they’re taking as they do it so they know that they’re to blame when something does happen
I guess it really depends on your preference, the amount of work you’re willing to put into building/restoring, and other things. But it sounds like you want a little swinger you can beat up on and not have to worry about, so I’d say go with a Miata, E30, 240sx or a 240z
I have an AEM cold air and there’s a definite difference between that and stock. The couple of times I’ve had to take it out and reinstall my stock intake, I immediately notice slower acceleration, throttle response, etc.. Then when I put the AEM back in, I can tell the performance is back as soon as I take the car on a drive. Also, not sure if this is true or just my imagination, but the exhaust note seems a little deeper with the intake. I hear from everyone that cold air intakes will do that, but who knows. Maybe it’s just ricers trying to make themselves feel better about their fart cannons. In terms of mileage, I’m really not sure. I haven’t kept track of my spending at the pump w/ and w/o the intake, but based on the logic of cold air holding more oxygen therefore producing more power with less fuel blah blah blah I wouldn’t be surprised if it does in fact improve fuel consumption. & I agree with fopeano on the tune. Your local performance shop should be able to answer any questions you might have on that.
On a side note, your CEL will most likely come on and give you a code for your MAP sensor. This is just because your computer is detecting a change in pressure in your intake manifold, simply because you’ve installed a new intake. Ignore it for about a week or two and the sensor will adjust to the new pressure and turn off the CEL, or you can just clear it yourself if you have a scanner
There are a lot of beloved tools in my garage, but if there’s one thing that deserves being saved above everything else it’d be my old Thorsen 3/8″ ratchet set made back when they were still produced in the US. That was my first and only set of tools for years as I was growing up learning about cars and it taught me that there’s no limit to what you can do with a medium sized ratchet and a good set of sockets
Like buod said, sounds like it’s just a bad radiator, but make sure that’s the case before you spend $80 on a new one
A lot of times it’s the window dragging along the rubber tracking. Or it could just be debris lodged inside your door, in which case you’d probably see scratches along the window
Idk if you fixed your trans leak yet but a problem I had was I was sold a radiator with a loose trans fluid fitting, so for a week i was leaking fluid everywhere until I was able to get it swapped for a new one. The fitting itself turned out to be broken underneath the locking nut. Not sure if you have the same type of fitting at your leak source but it’s just one of those little things that end up being worth double checking