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I say take a look at the cap and the thermostat. I would recommend swapping out the t-stat for an OEM one, a lot of cooling issues can be solved by putting in an OEM part (Subarus are particularly bad with this). Also, possibly testing or swapping out the
Quoted From Fader:
came across this site: http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp?Makes=Chevrolet+&Models=MALIBU#Matches
You can search by wheel bolt pattern and see which vehicles match yours. I thought it was very helpful in buying steel winter rims for the ol’ civic. hope this helps. Not really helpful for your tire question but in rims in general.
That is a great resource, thanks for sharing! Definitely will come in handy.
I can’t say how you can get the valve off, but I would check a service manual, or maybe someone experienced with Hondas can chime in. I do know from my experience with Subarus that cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve can make a big difference in idle quality, and if cleaning doesn’t work you may have to replace it. I believe they’re usually an expensive part so I would clean it first and go from there. Sounds like you hit all the other things I would check, like bleeding cooling system, egr passages, etc. Good luck!
This is from the Chilton Online manual (there’s a link on this forum for free access):
Removal & Installation- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Detach the wiring harness from the IAC valve.
- Remove the two retaining bolts.
- Remove the IAC valve and discard the old seals or gaskets.
To install:
- Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
- Using new seals or gaskets, position the IAC valve on the throttle body.
- Install and tighten the retaining bolts.
- Connect the wiring harness to the IAC valve.
- If raised, lower the vehicle.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
Thanks guys, I had a feeling, and looking at the Civic clearance would most likely be an issue. They’re pretty big, chunky tires so it looks like no go. Great to know about that they’re common on GMs, that helps a lot finding buyers. Thanks again!
I’ll just have him take it to the mechanic it’s no big deal. Just wondering if there was something easy to check before we did. Thanks for the help everybody!
I don’t have access to the car so can’t see about brake dust. My thoughts were just renew the brakes and they’ll be good as they’re probably just old and have lost their effectiveness. The pedal feels normal to me, but how could I test the brake booster? Seems like if it lost power assist it would be REALLY hard to stop and it’s not, just harder than normal. I will replace the pads and rotors all around eventually, that sounds like the best option. It won’t be for a long time, but I’ll probably make a write up or video to help people out, even though they look pretty standard. Also this car has rear discs. Thanks guys!
EDIT: Just saw the post about testing the brake booster, so disregard that part of the post.
As far as I know, the fluids that have to be Honda are the automatic transmission and power steering fluids. Those absolutely HAVE to be OEM Honda 100% no other way unless you want problems. As for brake fluid and other ones like that, sure Honda is always good to use, but not necessary and as long as you use a good quality aftermarket that meets the specifications you should be just fine.
Definitely check for any codes in the system, that’s the best place to start. In addition to checking what BigC above has stated, I’m thinking maybe a fuel delivery issue, your problems sound just like a friend’s parent’s vehicle that ended up needing a fuel pump. It was an 08 Tahoe 5.3 that was throwing codes lean on both banks and low O2 sensor voltage (both sensors). It would run rough and stall intermittently and just not act properly. New fuel pump fixed it.