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Hi collegeman, thanks for answering. The car does not use a distributor, it just has a central ignition coil for the 4 cylinders. The next step for testing is to use a spark tester and see what the coil is putting out but I wanted to make sure I’m on the right track and see if anybody has any other suggestions. Thanks!
Hi collegeman, thanks for answering. The car does not use a distributor, it just has a central ignition coil for the 4 cylinders. The next step for testing is to use a spark tester and see what the coil is putting out but I wanted to make sure I’m on the right track and see if anybody has any other suggestions. Thanks!
Great video, couple questions. First, with the unmetered air coming in from that intake gasket leak, were you surprised it didn’t also set a lean code? I know OBD II codes aren’t always perfect, but that seemed like a large leak that might set a lean code. Also, I know if you had your way you’d replace the plugs with new ones, so in no way do I “blame” you, I guess I’m just confused why the customer doesn’t want to spend the money on new plugs since they’re so cheap and would make little difference in the bill. That’s just the way it is, and at least your spare set seemed to have worked. Finally, I noticed the car had a Fram oil filter, and was wondering if you installed that? I’ve heard a lot of not so great things about Fram filters, and was curious if you use them for a specific reason. I’ve seen a lot more positive about Wix or some other brands. Thanks Eric!
Great video, couple questions. First, with the unmetered air coming in from that intake gasket leak, were you surprised it didn’t also set a lean code? I know OBD II codes aren’t always perfect, but that seemed like a large leak that might set a lean code. Also, I know if you had your way you’d replace the plugs with new ones, so in no way do I “blame” you, I guess I’m just confused why the customer doesn’t want to spend the money on new plugs since they’re so cheap and would make little difference in the bill. That’s just the way it is, and at least your spare set seemed to have worked. Finally, I noticed the car had a Fram oil filter, and was wondering if you installed that? I’ve heard a lot of not so great things about Fram filters, and was curious if you use them for a specific reason. I’ve seen a lot more positive about Wix or some other brands. Thanks Eric!
Hey Eric I had a question, why didn’t you also replace the rotor? It’s hard to tell in the video but was it in good shape because it looked a little rough. Also I assume you replaced the pads on the other side too right?
Hey Eric I had a question, why didn’t you also replace the rotor? It’s hard to tell in the video but was it in good shape because it looked a little rough. Also I assume you replaced the pads on the other side too right?
Since you already detached the shims from the pads yes you probably should affix them with something. Preshimmed pads are usually ready to go, just FYI for anybody else. I would recommend using CRC Disc Brake Quiet (the red/orange stuff) on the back of the pads, then attach the shim to the back. You don’t really need anything on the back of the shim but if you want you can put more Disc Brake Quiet on it.
I am an avid watcher of briansmobile1 on YouTube (I strongly recommend you check out his videos), and this is how he does it. He uses the disc brake quiet product to basically “glue” the shims on. He also puts it on the back of the shims (just where either the piston or the “fingers” of the caliper contact the pad) but that is not strictly necessary.
I would also caution you that even with doing this and using the disc brake quiet you may still have brake noise since you used cheap pads. Higher end pads like Raybestos Professional Grade, Wagner ThermoQuiet, or Akebono are your best bet. More expensive pads will be quieter and brake better, brakes aren’t a place to cheap out (don’t go crazy and get racing pads or something either).
That was pretty long so I’m going to be quiet now….good luck!
[quote=”clearanceman” post=31387]Eric,
This is not a regular even vibration. It’s not there then it builds like a jack hammer in steady pulse like a harder and harder until the whole car is shaking and you have to put the car in neutral to make it stop because you can’t stand it anymore. It’s only there like that when stopped in drive and your foot on the brake. It doesn’t do it in reverse or park, there was vibration but not like that. It’s bad, the mirrors were blurry from the shaking. It also went away when I went back to OEM axles.
And Eric, I was wrong about it just doing this with the AC on, it did it with it off too and doesn’t do it now with the AC on or off.[/quote]
I had the EXACT same vibration on my old 02 Outback after one of the axles was replaced. I lost the car in an accident before I had them replaced with OE but I believe that would have cured it.
This is great information for Subaru owners out there and there are a lot of things specific to Subarus that I learned over ownership of 2 of them. A Subaru enthusiast forum is your best friend.
Hey thanks for replying, I did see those on eBay along with other ones, unfortunately I was looking for something a lot less than that. Otherwise I would just buy a new set of steelies from Tire Rack. For example I found a set of used steelies for my Fiesta for $60 (for all 4) on Craigslist last year. They are a little beat up and rusty but they are straight and I don’t care about looks for winter. If you have any other leads (or anyone else) I’d appreciate it.
I wish I had seen this earlier I would have recommended axles right away. Aftermarket axles on Subarus are a no go. Have to use new or reman OEM axles. Vibration on idle with automatics is almost guaranteed with aftermarket axles, less so with the manuals. It seems there is too much slop in the aftermarket ones. Cardone new ones are usually good but OEM is the best.
So, just an update for everyone, I checked out the car today, and for some reason my multimeter was acting up and I couldn’t get a reading on it. However, the wiring and connector look fine, and I’m thinking if it was a wiring problem it would happen on o
Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone! I will be able to work on it Sunday and will report back on my findings and the results.
Thanks the replies. From what it sounds to him it did blow immediately when he switched it to high, but I can’t confirm it or whether it did blow the fuse on high or another speed. The fuse it blows is a 15 amp in the fuse box in the engine compartment, i
[quote]Quoted From college man: _x000D_
_x000D_
with an ohm meter. disconnect the fan motor. put one_x000D_
lead on high speed terminal and with the other lead_x000D_
touch the outside of the blower metal contact. if resistance_x000D_
is seen motor has short to ground and needs