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Ha I’m sorry forgot the most important information. It’s a Mazda b3000 and it is a manual drive truck. Are you talking about the drive shaft when you say intermediate shaft? The pinion gear in my differential? Or does a intermediate shaft have to do with steering? If it is steering, I’m almost positive that can’t be it. My steering is great! Nothing funky, no play, and the noise doesn’t alter when I turn the steering wheel. However I noticed when I switch from 4th to 5th, I had the clutch pressed in a little longer than usual to see if the noise goes away. It was still there whether I was in gear or rolling in neutral. I hope it’s not, but I think I read somewhere that it might be my pinion ring and gear. I guess something this complex would have to be looked at by a professional. But most of them down here are crooks!!
I already went to clean everything before and after the aic. I noticed there was a trash that advised me not to clean throttle body with carburetor cleaner. So I got throttle body cleaner and took everything apart. I didn’t even attempt to clean it because the entire intake and throttle body is spotless on the inside. I was surprised with me having 100,000 miles on it. I just wiped it with a dry rag. No black stuff anywhere. Not even the old aic valve was dirty. Guess I have a damn clean intake that stays that way. I’ll go get the original iac valve i bought and stick it on. I see what you’re saying. It needs to adjust or the ecu needs to get used to it. Are there any tricks you know that might help it adjust faster?
I fixed the vibration! 5 experienced mechanics kept telling that I had a bad left rear axle. I didn’t really believe them because I think a bent axle would cause a constant vibration. Not one that comes and goes mysteriously. But I went ahead and tried to check my axles out myself. I went to remove the drums and brakes, thankfully before taking the diff. cover off, and found out that the drums were sealed on pretty tight. I beat them with a hammer and pried on them for 2 hours. They wouldn’t budge. I had the whole brake assembly loosened by the star wheel and e-brake which does the same thing. Nothing would brake my drums loose. Broke a gear puller too. So I went and bought new drums and brakes knowing they’re screwed if they’re this hard to pull apart. Came back, cut the pins in the back and took a blow torch to it. They came right off after that lol. Fixed my brakes up, put my tires back on, and took my truck for a spin! No violent shakes and vibrations anymore!! My originalbrakes and drums weren’t messed up actually. They had a lot of life left in them. But I guess the previous owner bought the wrong brakes for the truck because the ones I pulled off we’re twice the thickness of the new ones I put on. I still replaced everything. Wasn’t taking any chances. Even the wheel cylinders. Feels as smooth as a Cadillac on the highway again.
If a check engine light is not on, can a computer still bring up codes to give me a better lead on where to look next about my engine missing?
OK i watched the video. Would ignition fluid compensate for carborater fluid? And how do i use the propane method?
I didn’t even think about a vacuum hose leak! I’m gonna check into that as soon as the sun comes up. Thanks! ! Hopefully that’s it. I suspected that when i heard a hissing nose coming from my engine when running. But it’s so quiet i thought maybe it wasa component doing its job so i let it go like a dummy lol ill check those videos out.
And no noise when I’m steering. Everything’s pretty quiet when I’m driving. Except for when im at highway speeds. When the vibration isnt happening i can hear and feel my engine making an odd noise as if im stomping on my gas in slightly too high of a gear. But I’m going 60 in 5th. Shouldn’t be sounding bogged down. It sounds Like a faint “waaaaoooowaaaaooowaaaaaooooo” even though I’m apply a steady amount of gas. The even weirder thing is when it does this, over all performance stays steady. It doesn’t change with the sound. And when I’m taking off in 1st gear it acts like I’m in too high of a gear and ends up making a sound like a diesel truck Would make. But i can’t go any lower than 1st! Those arethe only odd sounds i hear. I’ll look into my wheel hubs again. I’m assuming your thinking it’s not my drive train, otherwise it would be vibrating constantly?
Oh yeah forgot to mention. The missing is only happening when I’m idle or accelerating from a stand still. Once I’m going, it doesn’t miss anymore. Feels like i got a power loss and a slight hesitation from time to time. But that’s rare
Yes and no. My 2 rear tires are brand new. My front tires were not worn enough to be replaced at the time of my blow out which happened 2 months ago. Had an issue with Walmart in replacing those 2 though. Happened on a Sunday and they were the only ones open. Long story. I wanted both rear tires replaced. Came back both passenger side were replaced. Had them fix it and i took it for a drive. Shook like a whore in church. So i took it back in. Turns out they didn’t even balance my tires. Idk how they missed that. The vibrating I’m feeling now isn’t nearly as bad as it was during that personal test run. I took it to discount tire the next day and they looked everything over. Supposedly needed better waits or some bs like that. I went ahead and let them rebalance everything. Still didn’t fix it and they said they found nothing wrong. Took it to break check and i looked it over with them. They wiggled the front wheels which they did wiggled but not enough to be feeling the vibrations I’m feeling that’s for sure. They said i neededa whole knew rebuild of the things that house my bearings and all. Excuse me for my lack of terminology. I’m learning as i go. I didn’t believe them because it didn’t do this until Walmart messed with it. so i took it to a garage and they looked at it. Test drove it and and even ran it up on the jack. They said they saw my drive shaft wobbling like crazy. So i took it home and checked to see ifi couldn’t find anything and that’s wheni found my rear end leak. I fixed that and topped off my fluid. still had vibrations. And they happen more often than not. Sometimes they’re mellow. most of the timethey’re violent. I went ahead and replaced the U-joints myself and took my drive shaft up to Thrash drive shaft specialist and had them look at it. My drive shaft was out of balance so they balanced it. Still hasn’t fixed the problem. My stick shift also vibrates like hell when the vibration occurs.
I’ll go and get a compression test done. Have any idea how much that might cost? And no there isn’t a check engine light on for some reason. I wonder about that actually. It’s not burnt out or removed because it comes on with all the other lights when i first start my truck. That’s actually the first thing i checked for when i bought it used 3 months ago with only 104,000 miles on it. I know how some people pull the light bulb from the dash to hide it from the buyer. It’s there. It’s in excellent Condition besides the issues.