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Figured it out after taking the strut assembly out and re-examining.
The brown jounce bumper(It’s black on the catalog below) at the top of the dampener has to be shoved into a bracket at the bottom of the upper plate. I don’t see this in the instructions on the pdf online nor did I see this info in the paper installation manual provided for these struts. The instructions do mention that the bearing plate may need to be rotated in order to fit in the mounting bracket, although at first glance this wasn’t an issue, because both(left and right assembly) came shipped with the upper plate in the correct sequence. The problem is, it took one full rotation of the upper plate in order for the jounce bumper to fit in the bracket at the bottom of the upper plate. If the upper plate is not rotated one full revolution, the jounce bumper will not fit in the bracket as it is not centered over the bracket.
Thanks everyone for your help!
http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/monroe-quick-strut-installation-instructions.pdf
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/catalog/e-Catalog/171672Listen to Rattman on this one. I have an 03 Chevy Malibu and I dropped about 1200.00 back in 2011 on it (Bypass wasn’t nearly as well known back then). Less than a year later, just as Rattman says, it came back and I dropped another 300 on it. Finally once the issue was much more well known, the bypass was put in place in late 2012 and haven’t had an issue since.
Best Regards,
RyanHow long did you have the wheels on after replacing the struts prior to getting an alignment? Rotating the tires may not reduce the vibration effect if the tread is already worn too unevenly. I’d re-inspect the tread if you haven’t already on the tires that were in the front.
If its truly not the tires, which I have a high suspicion it is, based on you saying the effect of the vibration is minimized during a slight turn, I would lean toward a CV axle.
Best regards,
RyanI think you’ll be ok as long as the studs weren’t hit. The bearing would be my main concern. I’d get the tire on it, check it at 6/12 and 3/9 (since I’m assuming you were beating on the left and right, checking for play. If no play, you could check for grinding noises. I typically do this by having both front wheels on jack stands, putting the e-brake on (assuming it works), rear wheels chocks, and rev her up a bit to see if you hear anything with the wheels spinning off the ground. I assume no responsibility if you do this, just be extremely cautious (I can’t express that enough!). If you hear and feel nothing, I’d say you are good.
Best regards,
Ryanliquid wrench or pb blaster and heat as mentioned. Typically when changing tie-rods, I’m of the opinion that if you are changing the outers on high mileage, you may as well go ahead and change the inners too since you are going to have to get alignment. Plus it may be easier to just get the inner out anyway with the outer.
Best Regards,
RyanHave you replaced the fuel filter lately or checked pressure regulator to see if its leaking fuel? If you are losing 100 miles to a tank, I’d think you’d be losing fuel somewhere possibly in one of the fuel lines. May want to inspect/smell around.
Best regards,
RyanAccording to this site it looks like:
http://www.autopartsexpress.com/catalog/product/view/id/244677/s/auto7-311-0096-thermostat-housing-cover/category/231/With that being said, on the Sedona it appears to be on the lower radiator hose (I’m guessing similar for the Rio, but they are completely separate engines). Should be inside that housing. My image didnt go through, but if you pause the youtube video below at 1:51, you will see the housing, which the thermostat resides in.
Best Regards
I’m with Rattman. Have the wheels balanced if they haven’t been already. If the balance is good, then the next step may be to check the cv axle/shaft on the same side. With the control arm and wheel bearing being damaged, there is a good chance the cv axle was damaged as well, which can also cause vibration.
Best regards,
RyanI guess this kind of makes sense. Since you swapped the coils, and never cleared the check engine light, that code may have still remained in the ECU. When you did get an OBD II reader and cleared the codes, you paved the way for the new codes to come in now that the coils had been swapped, which went to two different cylinders this time (probably attached to the same coil?). Glad you figured it out though!
Best Regards,
RyanI’m with everyone else. Go with KYB. Monroe’s I’ve had hit or miss. Installed on a trailblazer and they worked great, but on my car, rather squeaky.
If you bled all 4 properly (on most vehicles starting from farthest away from master cylinder) and working closer one wheel at a time and you find its still “spongy” or your foot is going almost to the floor… you may be looking at a master cylinder replacement. Hopefully you kept a watchful eye on the master cylinder when you bled them as air in the master cylinder is no good!
Best Regards,
RyanAre you sure it isn’t just air in the lines? If you aren’t seeing any visible leaks, I would first bleed the brakes. I’m wondering if by compressing the piston, you somehow sucked in a bit of air in the line. Never a bad idea to bleed the lines just for the sake of doing so during a break change anyway.
Sounds like the lash adjusters/lifters to me having too much clearance between the rocker arms (possibly due to getting gunked up). I know you stated they were new, but that is what it sounds like. My dads dodge dakota 3.7 had the same issue. It never caused an issue until a rocker arm would fall off and that caused a huge bang. We replaced one lash adjuster, only to have a separate one fall off on the same side. When we replaced all 6 on that side however, and also adding some seafoam, it seemed to clear up the issue. That was over a year ago now and still no ticking.
Best regards,
RyanI can’t speak much for the TCS, but from my experience, the ABS lights typically won’t go off unless you fix the issue (cut sensor or bad bearing)… It may stay off for a few cycles, but if the bearing is bad, it will come back on and if the sensor is cut somewhere, it will come on immediately. My recommendation would be to purchase an OBD II reader. I probably can’t advertise here, but there is one out there for 100.00 that will read ABS codes on Chrysler’s/Chevy (verified Monte Carlo SS) and starts with a B. Google will help with that.
Best Regards,
RyanI am with cam in that I think the fuel cap being loose is unrelated. With that being said, I think it is either sulfer not being heated by the catalytic converter(bad cat) and burned off or potentially the battery. With no check engine light pointing to a p0420 though it is potentially not your catalytic converter. I think your cheapest route is to verify there are no cracks on the battery and connections are solid and if so have the battery load tested. Many places will do that for free. If the battery checks out, do a digital temperature reading of the catalytic converter and make sure its heating up on on the up a few hundred degrees more on the downstream side (side coming out of the tailpipe).
Best Regards,
Ryan