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You’re probably right college man, that will most likely be easier. Just kind of wanted to see how difficult it would be and if it’s worth it.
You’re probably right college man, that will most likely be easier. Just kind of wanted to see how difficult it would be and if it’s worth it.
I did end up swapping my TPS for a new one and still throws a TPS code, so I knew that wasn’t the issue. I went back to the service manual and found a section I overlooked. I disconnected the TPS connector and the PCM connector that holds the TPS signal wire. You then check the signal wire at the disconnected TPS connector with ground. If there is no continuity, which there wasn’t, there is a short in the wire between the TPS connector and the PCM.
I did end up swapping my TPS for a new one and still throws a TPS code, so I knew that wasn’t the issue. I went back to the service manual and found a section I overlooked. I disconnected the TPS connector and the PCM connector that holds the TPS signal wire. You then check the signal wire at the disconnected TPS connector with ground. If there is no continuity, which there wasn’t, there is a short in the wire between the TPS connector and the PCM.
Those services sound awesome, I might have to look into that. If I reconnect the PCM the original voltage situation presents itself with 4.9v on the signal circuit (to PCM) and no voltage on supply and ground. But just a few minutes ago I disconnected the TPS and turned the engine over. When I accelerated the engine did not stall (which has been my issue every time I hit the gas and open the throttle). I plugged it back in and tried again, instant stall. So could a bad TPS be causing these wacky voltage readings, the engine stall, and the codes?
Those services sound awesome, I might have to look into that. If I reconnect the PCM the original voltage situation presents itself with 4.9v on the signal circuit (to PCM) and no voltage on supply and ground. But just a few minutes ago I disconnected the TPS and turned the engine over. When I accelerated the engine did not stall (which has been my issue every time I hit the gas and open the throttle). I plugged it back in and tried again, instant stall. So could a bad TPS be causing these wacky voltage readings, the engine stall, and the codes?
So, I removed the connectors to the PCM and checked the TPS and MAP sensor. I read 3.4v on the 5 volt supply, ground, and PCM signal wires for both sensors. I assume that I must have a short somewhere, because those sensors shouldn’t be reading anything if the PCM is not connected. Anyone have any advice on tracing a short?
So, I removed the connectors to the PCM and checked the TPS and MAP sensor. I read 3.4v on the 5 volt supply, ground, and PCM signal wires for both sensors. I assume that I must have a short somewhere, because those sensors shouldn’t be reading anything if the PCM is not connected. Anyone have any advice on tracing a short?
No, there isn’t power on the ground wire, I was just stating that it has continuity. What is happening is that there is 5 volt supply on wire 1, which is incorrect according to the diagram. There is no voltage on wire 3. So I’m thinking that somehow the connector is wired incorrectly, I can’t think of any other reason.
No, there isn’t power on the ground wire, I was just stating that it has continuity. What is happening is that there is 5 volt supply on wire 1, which is incorrect according to the diagram. There is no voltage on wire 3. So I’m thinking that somehow the connector is wired incorrectly, I can’t think of any other reason.
I’m not familiar with your particular vehicle’s oil pan, but I wouldn’t recommend loosening the pan and shoving the gasket back in. Most likely I think you’d end up pinching the gasket, compromising the seal, and creating a more serious leak. I had a slow leak in my gasket and was able to drive my vehicle for a couple months before I replaced it. $800 also sounds like a ridiculous price to play, do you have to drop a section of the exhaust? If you do it yourself, it’s really not that much of a chore, most of the work comes from getting other components out of the way and removing upwards of 20 (10 mm I think) bolts. An air ratchet definitely comes in handy. Consult a service manual too, I had to add RTV to 4 parting lines on the crank case, but definitely do not add it all the way around as you defeat the purpose of the gasket.
I’m not familiar with your particular vehicle’s oil pan, but I wouldn’t recommend loosening the pan and shoving the gasket back in. Most likely I think you’d end up pinching the gasket, compromising the seal, and creating a more serious leak. I had a slow leak in my gasket and was able to drive my vehicle for a couple months before I replaced it. $800 also sounds like a ridiculous price to play, do you have to drop a section of the exhaust? If you do it yourself, it’s really not that much of a chore, most of the work comes from getting other components out of the way and removing upwards of 20 (10 mm I think) bolts. An air ratchet definitely comes in handy. Consult a service manual too, I had to add RTV to 4 parting lines on the crank case, but definitely do not add it all the way around as you defeat the purpose of the gasket.