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Just take pictures or a video as you go and keep the screws with the parts they go to on the floor in order you took them off. Then you can put it all back together in the reverse order.
It always seems difficult until you do it. 🙂
Just take pictures or a video as you go and keep the screws with the parts they go to on the floor in order you took them off. Then you can put it all back together in the reverse order.
It always seems difficult until you do it. 🙂
Excellent video Eric, you make that fix look easy. Looking for a voltage drop across the fuse isn’t something I would have thought of.
🙂
Excellent video Eric, you make that fix look easy. Looking for a voltage drop across the fuse isn’t something I would have thought of.
🙂
You’ve already determined the MAP sensor works so there is an electrical issue with the vehicle. The video is just an example of what could happen when sensors malfunction and that they could cause problems with other sensors. Your issue may not be exactly the same but all I’m saying is that it’s worth looking into. It is also possible that you may not be able to see physically where the sensors are connected but they may be connected electrically in the ECM where it’s sending out the reference voltage. The only place to find that is the electrical diagram. You could also test each sensor that has a 5V reference voltage to see if they are shorted.
Good luck.
Keep us posted.
You’ve already determined the MAP sensor works so there is an electrical issue with the vehicle. The video is just an example of what could happen when sensors malfunction and that they could cause problems with other sensors. Your issue may not be exactly the same but all I’m saying is that it’s worth looking into. It is also possible that you may not be able to see physically where the sensors are connected but they may be connected electrically in the ECM where it’s sending out the reference voltage. The only place to find that is the electrical diagram. You could also test each sensor that has a 5V reference voltage to see if they are shorted.
Good luck.
Keep us posted.
Having the wiring diagram will be helpful. It is possible that there is another sensor that is sharing the 5V Reference voltage that has shorted out and is causing the problem with the MAP sensor.
Check out this video.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]qymieUlEA9o[/video]
Having the wiring diagram will be helpful. It is possible that there is another sensor that is sharing the 5V Reference voltage that has shorted out and is causing the problem with the MAP sensor.
Check out this video.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]qymieUlEA9o[/video]
Your best bet is to buy a certified used car. They are looked over and any issues are fixed by the dealer and they come with warranties. Buying an older car means you might save money but you will usually pay more in the long run due to maintenance and normal wear and tear on the vehicle. Every car has a potential to have problems but pride of ownership is important. If the owner before you doesn’t take care of the car then it doesn’t matter what engine it has in it.
Eric goes through the basics that can clue you in to how well the car has been taken care of.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]3Tvgaix4jZ0[/video]
Your best bet is to buy a certified used car. They are looked over and any issues are fixed by the dealer and they come with warranties. Buying an older car means you might save money but you will usually pay more in the long run due to maintenance and normal wear and tear on the vehicle. Every car has a potential to have problems but pride of ownership is important. If the owner before you doesn’t take care of the car then it doesn’t matter what engine it has in it.
Eric goes through the basics that can clue you in to how well the car has been taken care of.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]3Tvgaix4jZ0[/video]
I would verify the calipers are working correctly by releasing the bleeder valve at the wheel. If the caliper releases the rotor then it could be the flexible brake line collapsed internally. But since the vehicle sits a lot being that it has low miles and is a 2003 the caliper slides that allows the brake pads to move could be preventing the pads from moving back and forth. The caliper bolts might need to be greased or the brake pad shims could be causing a problem.
You might need to take the brakes apart to make sure.
I wouldn’t write off the master cylinder just yet.
I would verify the calipers are working correctly by releasing the bleeder valve at the wheel. If the caliper releases the rotor then it could be the flexible brake line collapsed internally. But since the vehicle sits a lot being that it has low miles and is a 2003 the caliper slides that allows the brake pads to move could be preventing the pads from moving back and forth. The caliper bolts might need to be greased or the brake pad shims could be causing a problem.
You might need to take the brakes apart to make sure.
I wouldn’t write off the master cylinder just yet.
You can jack up all four tires and check if you can hear the chirp as the drive shaft turns. You can rent a press from your local auto parts store like Auto Zone. Here is a good video on how to get it done.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]SPRfBJCERnQ[/video]
You can jack up all four tires and check if you can hear the chirp as the drive shaft turns. You can rent a press from your local auto parts store like Auto Zone. Here is a good video on how to get it done.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]SPRfBJCERnQ[/video]
If it’s a chirp that gets more frequent the faster you drive then it’s probably the U-Joint in the drive shaft.
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