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Russell Sawyer

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  • in reply to: Odd Over Heating Problem #636078
    Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
    Participant

      You might consider a pressure check on the system. With all the work you did it’s possible there could be a leak when the system is under pressure which could be letting air back into the system. I good indicator is if you hear a noise behind the dash that sounds like a water fall which could indicate air in the heater core.

      [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]K5p-G3UDi-A&list[/video]

      Then I would bleed the system again with a spill free funnel to make sure all the air is out of the system.

      [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]zUpXgAJ1gjU&list[/video]

      in reply to: Renault Espace steering problems #625616
      Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
      Participant

        How long has the steering been doing this? If it just starting happening recently, have you hit a big pot hole or a curb recently? If so there could be a bent part.

        How do the tires look? Any uneven wear?

        How’s the power steering fluid level? Is there an accompanying noise when this happens?

        in reply to: Renault Espace steering problems #636035
        Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
        Participant

          How long has the steering been doing this? If it just starting happening recently, have you hit a big pot hole or a curb recently? If so there could be a bent part.

          How do the tires look? Any uneven wear?

          How’s the power steering fluid level? Is there an accompanying noise when this happens?

          in reply to: No heat, both hoses to heater core are cold #625596
          Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
          Participant

            [quote=”joeycava” post=114501]Ok so today I disconnected those 2 hoses that go to the heater core from the thermostat housing and backflushed with water from a garden hose and sure enough, a steady stream of brownish gunk game out for about 2 minutes straight. I reversed this and flushed from the other hose and the same result just not as bad. I alternated both ways a few times and the backflush way definitely yielded more brown liquid that the natural flowing way. So my car has heat now and will drive the car with the heat on later to make sure.

            Now that I do have heat, I let the car cool a few hours and went to refill the system with water. I am actually running 100% water right now because I drained the antifreeze a few times before today. When I took the radiator cap off there was a white soapy foam coming out. I let the car run as it was boiling over and then filled with more water as it came to operating temperature.

            Can this just be to air being in the system?[/quote]

            That’s great that you got the heat working by flushing out the heater core. I had to do that also with my truck. The fluid stays stagnant in the heater core in the summer and can cause gunk to build up. After I flushed out my heater core I run the heat once a week in the summer to circulate the coolant through the heater core to keep it moving. I haven’t had a problem since.

            As far as the boiling issue, water alone has a lower operating temperature than using 50/50 coolant. Also, the coolant system, under normal operating conditions, is pressurized which increases the boiling point of the fluid by 2 degrees for every pound per square inch of pressure.

            So running strait water and running the car with out a radiator cap would allow the fluid to boil at a much lower boiling point.

            Check your owners manual but running 50/50 coolant is the way to go for most vehicles.

            in reply to: No heat, both hoses to heater core are cold #636013
            Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
            Participant

              [quote=”joeycava” post=114501]Ok so today I disconnected those 2 hoses that go to the heater core from the thermostat housing and backflushed with water from a garden hose and sure enough, a steady stream of brownish gunk game out for about 2 minutes straight. I reversed this and flushed from the other hose and the same result just not as bad. I alternated both ways a few times and the backflush way definitely yielded more brown liquid that the natural flowing way. So my car has heat now and will drive the car with the heat on later to make sure.

              Now that I do have heat, I let the car cool a few hours and went to refill the system with water. I am actually running 100% water right now because I drained the antifreeze a few times before today. When I took the radiator cap off there was a white soapy foam coming out. I let the car run as it was boiling over and then filled with more water as it came to operating temperature.

              Can this just be to air being in the system?[/quote]

              That’s great that you got the heat working by flushing out the heater core. I had to do that also with my truck. The fluid stays stagnant in the heater core in the summer and can cause gunk to build up. After I flushed out my heater core I run the heat once a week in the summer to circulate the coolant through the heater core to keep it moving. I haven’t had a problem since.

              As far as the boiling issue, water alone has a lower operating temperature than using 50/50 coolant. Also, the coolant system, under normal operating conditions, is pressurized which increases the boiling point of the fluid by 2 degrees for every pound per square inch of pressure.

              So running strait water and running the car with out a radiator cap would allow the fluid to boil at a much lower boiling point.

              Check your owners manual but running 50/50 coolant is the way to go for most vehicles.

              in reply to: Loud engine #625279
              Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
              Participant

                You might want to check all your pulleys. The bearings can go bad and cause very loud noises. If none of the pulleys you can get to aren’t noisy then you might want to check the timing belt pulleys.

                Here is a good video of an example.

                [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]0UY35PUdv2c&list[/video]

                in reply to: Loud engine #635608
                Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                Participant

                  You might want to check all your pulleys. The bearings can go bad and cause very loud noises. If none of the pulleys you can get to aren’t noisy then you might want to check the timing belt pulleys.

                  Here is a good video of an example.

                  [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]0UY35PUdv2c&list[/video]

                  in reply to: clio 1.2 8v (idle problem) #625267
                  Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                  Participant

                    You may want to check for vacuum leaks around the throttle body and all your hose connections.

                    Here is a video from ETCG

                    [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]9CPqbaSgcok[/video]

                    in reply to: clio 1.2 8v (idle problem) #635583
                    Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                    Participant

                      You may want to check for vacuum leaks around the throttle body and all your hose connections.

                      Here is a video from ETCG

                      [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]9CPqbaSgcok[/video]

                      in reply to: Impala Intermittent no start #625116
                      Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                      Participant

                        [quote=”Durango8766″ post=114189]

                        however, I made the discovery that when I remove the brake booster hose the car starts perfectly. so does that mean that its starved for air? and I forgot to mention that I am only getting 200 miles to a tank of gas so something is not right.[/quote]

                        Maybe the check valve on the brake booster is causing a vacuum leak, which would explain the poor gas mileage.

                        in reply to: Impala Intermittent no start #635381
                        Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                        Participant

                          [quote=”Durango8766″ post=114189]

                          however, I made the discovery that when I remove the brake booster hose the car starts perfectly. so does that mean that its starved for air? and I forgot to mention that I am only getting 200 miles to a tank of gas so something is not right.[/quote]

                          Maybe the check valve on the brake booster is causing a vacuum leak, which would explain the poor gas mileage.

                          in reply to: Solving Honda Idle Issues (rough idle) #625076
                          Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                          Participant

                            This may be a good place to start. Here is also a more complete article.

                            http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41476-solving-honda-idle-issues-hunting-idle

                            [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]L788jKEVblY&feature[/video]

                            in reply to: Solving Honda Idle Issues (rough idle) #635342
                            Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                            Participant

                              This may be a good place to start. Here is also a more complete article.

                              http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41476-solving-honda-idle-issues-hunting-idle

                              [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]L788jKEVblY&feature[/video]

                              in reply to: Acura MDX heater blows cold air #634824
                              Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                              Participant

                                You could also have a leak somewhere that is allowing air to get into the coolant system and the air likes to hide in the heater core. You may need to find the leak with a pressure test. You might want to go over the clamps you removed when replacing the thermostat. That could be where the air is getting in or you could have multiple leaks.

                                [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]K5p-G3UDi-A[/video]

                                in reply to: Acura MDX heater blows cold air #624674
                                Russell SawyerRussell Sawyer
                                Participant

                                  You could also have a leak somewhere that is allowing air to get into the coolant system and the air likes to hide in the heater core. You may need to find the leak with a pressure test. You might want to go over the clamps you removed when replacing the thermostat. That could be where the air is getting in or you could have multiple leaks.

                                  [video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]K5p-G3UDi-A[/video]

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