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Thanks for the reply, Karl.
I’ve tried three OBD scanners (2 windows based, plus the Android Torque app), none of them get any data from the O2 sensor PIDs. I don’t know if I want to spend money to buy a dedicated scanner with live data at this time. I’ll probably try to probe the upstream O2 sensor voltages first. I also don’t want to buy new Denso sensors until I have a valid reason to do so. I have seen another forum post or two that said the 1998 ECU doesn’t support the O2 sensor voltage PIDs, don’t know if this is true but it’s starting to seem that way. The 1998 Corolla was the first year of Gen 8, its possible Toyota refined the ECU in later years.
I absolutely have no DTCs. Only codes I’ve seen over the last decade have been EVAP (p0441/p0446).
I will look at the MAP sensor. I do get data from it (see attached pic in first post) but I don’t know if the data is valid.
The one question I have is if the ECU is stuck in open loop, how are long and short term fuel trims being computed, or are they all just derived from stored data arrays without any input from vehicle sensors?
As for the EVAP VSV, I’d be inclined to look into that issue after I solve or improve the fuel economy. I found an aftermarket VSV on ebay for $25, which would be worth trying.
I understand that part. The Evap code is not really an issue that I’m wanting to deal with. The code (P0441) only sets in summertime, and I read elsewhere on a Toyota forum that the ECU ignores the evap system if the ambient temp. at startup is below 40F, or thereabouts. This problem has been active for at least ten years, without noticeably affecting mileage.
I suspect I have a small vacuum leak at idle, maybe due to an aftermarket cruise control unit that was installed. I still feel there has to be something else amiss. The engine is still a baby at less than 90,000 miles, always has oil changes at 2000-3000 miles. As with all 1ZZFE engines, it does burn a little oil, but only 1/4 quart in 3000miles.
My main question centers on the 02 and catalyst monitors always reporting “not ready” and the implications therein on my fuel economy. As best I can tell, the ECU is ALWAYS in open loop. Is this really possible? And if so, what would cause the system to never switch to closed loop? Does it use the O2 sensor data at all in open loop, maybe just for LTFT? I would like to use a digital multimeter to probe the O2 sensor voltages but I need to purchase a new one as well as some t-pins to back-probe the connector. Until then, any other thoughts?
I just googled a little bit on this topic (bored on lunch hour) and found out that a replacement fuel line is not available in the aftermarket. So I guess I would rethink my repair advise. I did find this nylon Ford fuel repair kit from Dorman that might do the trick. It comes with an 18″ piece of fuel line, and brass barb fitting and a decoupler tool. I imagine you can just trim it to a length that is convenient to splice. The good thing is this kit is designed for fuel injection lines, and should not leak like a cobbled-together mish-mash of hose clamps, etc.
I just googled a little bit on this topic (bored on lunch hour) and found out that a replacement fuel line is not available in the aftermarket. So I guess I would rethink my repair advise. I did find this nylon Ford fuel repair kit from Dorman that might do the trick. It comes with an 18″ piece of fuel line, and brass barb fitting and a decoupler tool. I imagine you can just trim it to a length that is convenient to splice. The good thing is this kit is designed for fuel injection lines, and should not leak like a cobbled-together mish-mash of hose clamps, etc.
Sorry to hear that someone vandalized your Ranger. I also own a 1995 4 cyl. Ranger and I love my truck, so your bad luck hits home with me. The Ranger has three lines that run from the tank to the engine bay; Supply, Return, and Evap. (for emissions). I’m assuming that at least the supply line was damaged. There are special lock fittings that interface with the fuel filter that would not be easy to make leak-free if they were damaged or bypassed. (Watch Eric’s video on replacing the 1999 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump. The same fittings are shown on the filter for that vehicle)
If I were you I’d take the time to replace the line correctly, rather than trying to patch in fuel repair materials with couplers and hose clamps. My fix would require dropping the fuel tank to gain access to the fittings on the sending unit/fuel pump assembly. This is no small job, especially when it comes to detaching the fuel filler neck from the fuel door. I’m sure other people would find a “patch method” acceptable, but the stock fuel line is the best, safest way to achieve a lasting repair.
If you need more help, there as a few Ford techs that hang out on therangerstation.com forums. Head over there, sign up, and repost your question in the General Discussion section and ADSM or another expert will chime in with very specific advice relating to the venerable Ranger.
Good luck!
Sorry to hear that someone vandalized your Ranger. I also own a 1995 4 cyl. Ranger and I love my truck, so your bad luck hits home with me. The Ranger has three lines that run from the tank to the engine bay; Supply, Return, and Evap. (for emissions). I’m assuming that at least the supply line was damaged. There are special lock fittings that interface with the fuel filter that would not be easy to make leak-free if they were damaged or bypassed. (Watch Eric’s video on replacing the 1999 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump. The same fittings are shown on the filter for that vehicle)
If I were you I’d take the time to replace the line correctly, rather than trying to patch in fuel repair materials with couplers and hose clamps. My fix would require dropping the fuel tank to gain access to the fittings on the sending unit/fuel pump assembly. This is no small job, especially when it comes to detaching the fuel filler neck from the fuel door. I’m sure other people would find a “patch method” acceptable, but the stock fuel line is the best, safest way to achieve a lasting repair.
If you need more help, there as a few Ford techs that hang out on therangerstation.com forums. Head over there, sign up, and repost your question in the General Discussion section and ADSM or another expert will chime in with very specific advice relating to the venerable Ranger.
Good luck!
Yep, you need to remove the crank pulley. You can use a breaker bar tied to the frame and then bump the starter. Ranger/Mustang 2.3L timing belt changes have been discussed hundreds of times on the various Ford Ranger websites, just google if you need more info. Here’s a thread with lots of pics that should give you all the info you need to get started……
From the rangerstation.com:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/ … hp?t=86520
Being an owner of a 1995 Ranger (2.3L 5 Speed Manual) since the late 90s and having spent countless hours on various Ranger web forums, I can say with near certainty that the “new” slave cylinder failed and is leaking. The slave is the weak link in the hydraulic clutch system, made worse by the need to pull the transmission whenever it fails. Most of the new aftermarket slaves are made in China and with even a good brand behind them, many still seem to fail long before they should. (My original slave lasted until last summer -16 years and nearly 100,000 miles). I’ve read posts where guys have said their cheap aftermarket slaves have failed a week or two after replacement….yikes!
I would say that replacing the original master cylinder is a good idea too but the hard plastic line should be okay to reuse unless it was somehow damaged or kinked over the years.
Inspite of what I’ve said above, I went cheap on my parts as well and installed a Perfection Clutch brand master and slave from Advanced Auto, mostly because the company is US based and has excellent technical support and even better how-to videos on youtube. Hopefully I got “good” Chinese parts that will last me many years because wrestling the tranny back in place on a hot, sweaty day was not much fun.
Incidentally, I was watching Eric’s 2002 Ford Focus clutch replacement videos and it appears Ford still uses a similar PITA design on that vehicle….sigh.
Hopefully if he goes to an engine builder, the builder will do the proper tests before proceeding and if it’s bad news steers him to a junkyard motor. I know if the block is toast but the head is good and he finds an older engine (say mid 90s or so) he’d be able to swap heads as the 2000 model year had a slightly higher compression ratio than some of the older models, resulting in a few more horsepower and a couple extra lb-ft of torque. (These are woefully underpowered engines and need every ounce of power they can get). BTW, 2001 was the last year of the this Ford Lima engine (yes, Lima, Ohio) which is the same basic engine that came with the 74 Pinto!
Anyway, the way this guy diagnosed his problem could be a how-to in “how NOT to diagnose an engine stumbling problem”. Throwing $$$ parts at motor not very effective.
I’ll post back when he takes the next step in this saga.
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder and can assure you it is indeed OBD-II compliant. I’ve had my truck scanned at autozone and advanced auto many times and believe me, I had to beg them to come outside with their 96+ scan tool because they swore a ’95 model would be OBD-1. Ford updated the Ranger for the 95 model year and added the OBD-II EEC-V emission control system a year early, most likely to save costs down the line. I just purchased an Elm Scan 5 Compact scanner to use on this truck and my 1998 Corolla. So far it works great on the toyota and will soon test on the Ranger after I get my transmission up and running following a hydraulic slave cylinder swap on its Mazda-built 5 speed. I sucks that the trans needs to be removed every time the slave goes out, a slight PITA……(sarcasm)
Also, if the OP has any other issues with his Ranger, I’d suggest visiting http://www.therangerstation.com Jim Oaks and Co. have put together a great resource for Ranger truck owners and along with ETCG.com, it’s my favorite place on the web to hang out.
