Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Several years ago I had to strip for parts and clean out a taxi that had been wrecked a few nights before. The intoxicated driver had left the scene and was incarcerated. When I got into the trunk I found Hustler magazines, some sort of lube called slick and smooth, half a roll of paper towels, 22 cal, small plastic bags, and a large freezer bag of pot. We laughed our butts off because that particular driver always had this umbilical cord thing with his cab. He wanted to wait with it for oil changes and even brake jobs. All I could think was how many peoples bags this guy had handled. (both luggage and dope} He called the owner when he got out wanting his job back. When he was told no, he asked him for his “personal property”
The oblong part is only there to stop the stationary part of the throw out bearing from rotating on the clutch fork. There isn’t much force there trying to turn it. They used to just use clips that attached it to the fork. It will fit and function either way. (oblong part facing toward open end of fork or not)
The oblong part is only there to stop the stationary part of the throw out bearing from rotating on the clutch fork. There isn’t much force there trying to turn it. They used to just use clips that attached it to the fork. It will fit and function either way. (oblong part facing toward open end of fork or not)
Following the procedure, you should tighten the nut until you reach the proper pull on your pull scale. The pull should be somewhere in the range. If other people are having multiple failures. I would stick to this procedure.
The same procedure is used when you put gears in a rear end. The pinion gear rotating torque has to be set.Following the procedure, you should tighten the nut until you reach the proper pull on your pull scale. The pull should be somewhere in the range. If other people are having multiple failures. I would stick to this procedure.
The same procedure is used when you put gears in a rear end. The pinion gear rotating torque has to be set.You first measure the seal drag with no preload, then add that to the preload spec. You are trying to load your bearing to spec, so you have to take the seal drag into consideration. If you didn’t you would be under torqued. I think they have you using a pull scale instead of a torque wrench, because the value would be hard to measure. (only a few inch/pounds)
Any multi purpose grease is okay including lithium. Of course it’s real important to make sure you use clean grease. I saw that E z squeeze on Amazon for like 20 bucks. That’s what I paid for mine 20 something years ago.You first measure the seal drag with no preload, then add that to the preload spec. You are trying to load your bearing to spec, so you have to take the seal drag into consideration. If you didn’t you would be under torqued. I think they have you using a pull scale instead of a torque wrench, because the value would be hard to measure. (only a few inch/pounds)
Any multi purpose grease is okay including lithium. Of course it’s real important to make sure you use clean grease. I saw that E z squeeze on Amazon for like 20 bucks. That’s what I paid for mine 20 something years ago.It sounds like you just need a fish scale like you could get for a few bucks at Walmart. You are just measuring how much force it takes to start the hub turning. First you are measuring the seal drag, then the preload.
As far as greasing wheel bearings, I like the E-z squeeze tool I got from the Snap-on guy. Greasing by hand works, but it’s messy. This tool keeps everything clean, is quick, and does an excellent job of getting the grease in.It sounds like you just need a fish scale like you could get for a few bucks at Walmart. You are just measuring how much force it takes to start the hub turning. First you are measuring the seal drag, then the preload.
As far as greasing wheel bearings, I like the E-z squeeze tool I got from the Snap-on guy. Greasing by hand works, but it’s messy. This tool keeps everything clean, is quick, and does an excellent job of getting the grease in.If it was me I’d go with the quick boot. As long as you haven’t driven it far, that cv shaft should still have lots of life left in it. A new cv shaft is pretty cheap these days, but you still have to replace it. That means dropping the transaxle oil and pulling apart your suspension on the one side.
The outer joint works harder than the inner one. The outer joint also is more exposed to stuff thrown from the tires.If it was me I’d go with the quick boot. As long as you haven’t driven it far, that cv shaft should still have lots of life left in it. A new cv shaft is pretty cheap these days, but you still have to replace it. That means dropping the transaxle oil and pulling apart your suspension on the one side.
The outer joint works harder than the inner one. The outer joint also is more exposed to stuff thrown from the tires.Those things are really tight sometimes because they are a tapered pipe thread. The more they are tightened the more the tapers wedge together. It shouldn’t have lock-tight in the threads, but you never know. When I get a real stubborn dif. plug I rap it with a hammer on the end with you put the ratchet in. This seems to rattle the tapers loose. Clean out the square opening so the extension can engage fully. You should be able to break it loose with enough leverage. Since you are removing the cover anyway, you could always drill it out until it is thin enough to collapse inward. Silicone is fine to seal a differential cover.
Those things are really tight sometimes because they are a tapered pipe thread. The more they are tightened the more the tapers wedge together. It shouldn’t have lock-tight in the threads, but you never know. When I get a real stubborn dif. plug I rap it with a hammer on the end with you put the ratchet in. This seems to rattle the tapers loose. Clean out the square opening so the extension can engage fully. You should be able to break it loose with enough leverage. Since you are removing the cover anyway, you could always drill it out until it is thin enough to collapse inward. Silicone is fine to seal a differential cover.