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There’s no knock sensor on the engine. It has the problem when it’s in my driveway with no other running engines near it.
RoyL
There’s no knock sensor on the engine. It has the problem when it’s in my driveway with no other running engines near it.
RoyL
The camshaft position sensor on that engine is basically just a coil of fine wire! It senses a magnet on the timing pulley by putting out a small voltage as the magnet goes past. It’s a fairly small voltage; when I played around with a spare sensor & a magnet, I was seeing around 0.1 volt. The factory manual calls for an oscilloscope to read the sensor output – they don’t bother to mention anything about what the readings should be, they just show a picture of the expected waveform.
If/when the rain stops, I’ll drag the oscilloscope out to the car to confirm that the sensor is truly putting out a signal when it’s warmed up.
I’ve also taken off the timing belt cover to make sure the cam pulley (which holds the timing magnets) is properly positioned. It is; it’s firmly attached to the camshaft & end float is well within specs. I still think I’ve got a wiring issue, even though it hasn’t shown up with cold checks. I’m going to repeat the whole set of diagnostic checks with a warm engine, after the rain stops & it gets warm enough to not have to wear gloves while trying to do finicky work;-)
RoyL
The camshaft position sensor on that engine is basically just a coil of fine wire! It senses a magnet on the timing pulley by putting out a small voltage as the magnet goes past. It’s a fairly small voltage; when I played around with a spare sensor & a magnet, I was seeing around 0.1 volt. The factory manual calls for an oscilloscope to read the sensor output – they don’t bother to mention anything about what the readings should be, they just show a picture of the expected waveform.
If/when the rain stops, I’ll drag the oscilloscope out to the car to confirm that the sensor is truly putting out a signal when it’s warmed up.
I’ve also taken off the timing belt cover to make sure the cam pulley (which holds the timing magnets) is properly positioned. It is; it’s firmly attached to the camshaft & end float is well within specs. I still think I’ve got a wiring issue, even though it hasn’t shown up with cold checks. I’m going to repeat the whole set of diagnostic checks with a warm engine, after the rain stops & it gets warm enough to not have to wear gloves while trying to do finicky work;-)
RoyL
Using a timing light, I can see that when it warms up it no longer provides proper ignition advance. Without adequate advance, the engine barely runs. I’ve gone thru all the tests in the service manual – everything is in spec when the engine is cold. I’ve done a few hot checks without finding the problem, not definitive, since I didn’t repeat all the tests hot.
RoyL
Using a timing light, I can see that when it warms up it no longer provides proper ignition advance. Without adequate advance, the engine barely runs. I’ve gone thru all the tests in the service manual – everything is in spec when the engine is cold. I’ve done a few hot checks without finding the problem, not definitive, since I didn’t repeat all the tests hot.
RoyL
No codes, even with the dealer’s special reader. I’ve also tried swapping the ECU with another one – no change.
RoyL
No codes, even with the dealer’s special reader. I’ve also tried swapping the ECU with another one – no change.
RoyL
Simple check with a timing light. Initially, both the dealer & I thought it was a fuel delivery issue – after swapping injectors with a new one & testing/swapping sensors, I finally thought to check timing. The lack of advance also fits with the occasional “spitting back” thru the intake when it’s warmed up.
RoyL
Simple check with a timing light. Initially, both the dealer & I thought it was a fuel delivery issue – after swapping injectors with a new one & testing/swapping sensors, I finally thought to check timing. The lack of advance also fits with the occasional “spitting back” thru the intake when it’s warmed up.
RoyL