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Hmm. Well if it’s getting fuel and spark I would think it would start, or at least make an attempt. If the engine cranks then it’s not seized so that’s a plus, im not sure what internal engine component they could’ve broke that would allow the engine to crank but not fire any of the cylinders. The result of driving an overheating engine until it dies is usually a seized engine, possibly a broken rod, however if a rod was broken you would probably hear it as you cranked the engine over if it didn’t manage to punch it’s way through the block when it broke.
Assuming the no start and the fact you have have an exploded radiator line and a dead car in the middle of the road are not related ( which is hard for me to do). My first thought would be the ignition switch. How did the thieves steal the car? I assume they didn’t have your keys? If not then they probably just hammered a screwdriver into the ignition and turned it over, probably not all that hard to do on an 84 accord. If so they could’ve damaged the ignition switch, I believe that could cause a no start condition where you still get fuel and spark. I had a ignition switch break on my 94 prelude, it would sound like it was trying to start but never would. I also had issues with my dash lights sometimes not coming on at all, but the car would still crank.
Number two cylinder looks like it’s burning oil. Number four might be a bit lean. But I see nothing of serious concern from how those plugs look.
I have no idea what that noise is. Nothing jumped out at me from a google search either. Sounds to me almost like a programmed error code, like BIOS beeps on a computer motherboard.
If it’s related to the DRL I would just pull the fuse for the DRL in the fuse box under the hood and see if it goes away. Not sure why they would remove the relay, i’m pretty sure there is a fuse. The high beams should still work even with that fuse out, a lot of people disable their daytime running lights.
Well that is just a mess of seemingly unrelated problems, I don’t know where to begin. It started pooping out of first gear after driving with the e brake up? I cant imagine driving with the e brake up would cause any damage at all if it was only for a block or two, I highly doubt that would even cause an overheat. It never overheated before that? Popping out of first gear is hopefully being caused by low or bad tranny fluid, though that would not explain why it started right after driving with the e brake up. Other possibilities are a bad first gear synchro, if this was the case it would likely grind going into first. If you replace the tranny fluid use Honda MTF only, I have heard synchromesh fluid works good as well but my recommendation is Honda MTF, you can get it on amazon.
Any signs of the clutch slipping? If you did manage to damage something driving with the E brake up I would think it would be the clutch.
As for the no start and electrical noise, the noise is really throwing me off. I have killed many a honda distributor but I have never heard the noise you describe. I would pull the dizzy cap off, check if the rotor fell off, they are known to do that, if it did just put it back on or get a new rotor (very cheap) if its rounded off and it should start. If the inside of the dizzy is caked in red or white dust it is likely dead and needs to be replaced (not so cheap don’t buy an ebay dizzy). Ignition issue’s are by far the most common cause of a no start on an integra.
Other causes of the no start that might fit your description is the fuel pump, however it is not common for integra fuel pumps of that vintage to go bad. I had a 92 integra with 250,000miles on the factory fuel pump.
A bad axle makes sort of a clicking or clunking noise, put the car in neutral as it’s making the noise going down the road, if it stops when you go into neutral it is likely an axle. If it’s clicking going straight down the road it is probably quite bad, is the boot ripped? If it’s worse making a right turn then the left axle is probably the most damaged, but you should really replace both at the same time, if one is bad it is likely the other is bad as well.
Well simple fixes first. I would try running some fuel injection cleaner with a tank of gas, a partially clogged injector could cause a misfire. Also a very dirty fuel filter could cause a misfire if it’s impeding the flow of fuel. Do you know what cylinder? Check engine light is on I would imagine? V6 or 4 cylinder?
Well i’m pretty sure the only part that starts moving when the AC is turned on is the compressor, that’s certainly the only part that would be affected when getting off the throttle. So my logic would dictate it has to be he compressor making the noise, probably a bearing. That or the extra load the compressor puts on the belt is causing another pulley’s bearing to make noise. This would also explain why steering affects the noise, if the compressor and power steering pump share the same belt. I’m pretty certain it’s a bearing on something the serpentine belt is driving.
Well I took it back to my mechanic friend, he did a valve adjustment for me (it needed to be done anyway he said most were out of adjustment) engine quieted up, however noise from the distributor is still there I tried to make another video but I dont think it would have been of any help my cell phone microphone just does not pick it up with my loud exhaust. He also checked the timing belt tension and said it was fine (not sure how the noise and timing belt job could be unrelated but he seemed stumped as to what was causing it), nor did I hear any noise that seemed alarming in the timing belt area with the stethoscope. I remember while he was doing the valve adjustment and rotating the engine the timing belt seemed to be tight, then slack up a bit, then tighten again and so on as the engine was being turned is that bad? I figured he would have noticed if it was, maybe not?
That said I don’t believe the timing belt job and the distributor noise are unrelated as it happened right after the timing belt, it would be too much of a coincidence if they weren’t. Is there anyway I could check the timing belt tension myself? Im no mechanic but I am comfortable pulling the valve cover, would a video or picture of the belt help? I could rotate the engine by hand and show the slack if that would help?
I found the source of the noise. Its my distributor? My buddy has one of those mechanics stethoscopes and I can clearly hear it coming from the distributor. What could that be? Im about to pull the cap off and see if anythings loose in there. Man I dont want to replace that thing they aren’t cheap for this car.
Any idea where that sensor is? Or how to find it? Im having trouble finding wiring diagrams for this car.
I know you can get the check engine codes by jumping two pins with a paper clip in this connector behind my radio then some lights on the dash will flash and give you the code. But I do not have an ABS light wouldn’t that come on if a code was stored? I will try to pull the codes and see if anything is in there just in case.
Yeah that could be it I bought the car with 160,000 miles it now has 197,000 and I have never replaced the clutch so it could be due pretty soon. However, I probably should have put this in my original post but 2 months ago about a month before this rev thing started happening I did think my clutch was going. It was very hard to get the car into any gear, but then I discovered the hydraulic fluid for my clutch was almost completely emptied and the fluid was black and dirty looking I filled it up with brake fluid like it says on the cap (its a little reservoir next to the brake master cylinder) pumped the clutch a bit and it worked fine. I know I probably should have but I haven’t bled it or changed the fluid yet, do you think that could be related?
And no it does not rev up at idle when I push in the clutch, im going to take it for a drive tomorrow and find out exactly when it does it or if im causing it because im not used to the wearing clutch.
Thanks for the help guys I will look into that. Of course it has to be $210 new. Is this something I shouldn’t buy used? And if it is the IAC valve do you think it would be bad to keep driving it the way it is for a while? I dont exactly have the money for it right now..
Yeah your probably right im not sure if it was leveled off very well. I did end up replacing the tranny fluid before I read this, I used syncromesh fluid I heard that was good to use as well, I needed to drive the car that day or I would have ordered Honda MTF. Unfortunately they dont sell it at any auto parts stores I know of and I dont have a honda dealership close by. Would syncromesh be okay of should I order the honda MTF and replace it?