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I did some testing and found the following:
The noise only happens when the car is in gear, moving slowly or fully stopped with steering rotated and held in rotated position.
No noise when rotating the steering and the engine is off.
No noise when rotating the steering and the engine is on but the transmission is in parked position.It is the original PS fluid from 2000. The fluid level is OK.
The vehicle does not have to be moving to hear the noise. The noise is there even when the car is fully stopped. When the car is stopped or moving at very slow speed, if I rotate the steering wheel either way and hold it, the grinding noise continues until I rotate the steering wheel back to straight position.
The sound seems to be coming from the front side. The sound is similar to brake dragging but I don’t think the brake is dragging because the car runs fine.According to the diagram, the drain pan bolt should be in the back. But, I have 2 bolts in the back and they do not look like drain plug bolt. The side bolt which is #10 on my photo seems like the drain plug but I’m not sure. On my photos, bolt # 7, 10, 4, 3 are the same bolt, photo taken from different angles – if that helps.
I always had issues understanding those hand-drawn diagrams. They do a poor job. I appreciate your help though. A real picture would tell a thousand words.
I could not figure out the location of the ATF drain plug from the diagram you attached. The 4 Photos I attached previously have numbers written next to plug/bolt locations. Please mention the correct number(s) on your reply.
The issue has been fixed. It was a contaminated fluid issue. I think the oil change place did that to me as a revenge. I’m not naming any names but it was a big national chain store. However, I have no proof, just a hunch. I accused the mechanic for stripping the oil pan nut and he was furious.
Anyhow, I flushed the old brake fluid with new cheap fluid on all 4 wheels and everything was fine. It has been running fine since December of 2017.
Thanks for your comments.I put Vaseline on the O-ring after rotating it. Polished all the rust out with a rotating tool. Bought a cheap OBD2 device and cleared the code. Drove the car for a few hundred miles so far. SES light is still off. I think it was a gas cap rust issue.
I rotated the tires and the loud noise kind of went away. I only hear loud engine droning noise now which is louder that usual.
Regarding the transmission fluid, 18 months ago I removed 3 quarts and added 3.75 quarts of total of AT fluid because I thought the fluid level was low. I used Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission. According to Valvoline, it is compatible with SP-II, SP-III and SP-IV which is used by Hyundai. I checked the fluid level 2 months ago and found the AT fluid level was actually too high. I removed 1.75 quarts and added 1 quart new AT fluid 2 months ago. The fluid level was in between the lines on the dipstick 2 months ago and I don’t have a AT fluid leak. The fluid is very dark brown. Experts told me the fluid gets dark after several months on Hyundai and that is OK.
Rear drums. My car has a proportioning valve. Do I disconnect at the MC or at the proportioning valve? What kind of brass fitting are you recommending and where to buy them?
I never lifted the back to check if the back wheels are locked. The back wheels never get sizzling hot like the fronts when the car struggles to move.
I never checked for hissing sound from the booster. If you see the photos I uploaded, my booster does not have one of those pop in and out type check valve that attaches to a hose. Where should this hissing sound come from and what does it say about the issue?
I did not drive the car today.I drove the car around for ~30 miles today, city traffic. Drove on the Interstate @ 70+ MPH for a short while. The brakes did not lock since the flush 2 days ago. The road/engine noise has been louder ever since early summer of this year when this issue started. I took temperatures of all wheels several times. Since the flush, the front passenger side lug nuts are getting warmer than the front driver side – just opposite of my past 2 month’s experience – however, they were not hot, just warm.
I think it is too early to call this mystery solved, but it is pointing towards the UNHOLY MIX of synthetic and regular DOT3 fluid.
Will update again soon.