Menu

Noureddine Marigh

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • in reply to: No start, hardly cranks. Timing? #869832
    Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
    Participant

      We found it, it was between the cams. See images.
      Ok, I will check the tensioner and other components when I take the timing cover off. Any idea how you inspect the tensioner?

      in reply to: No start, hardly cranks. Timing? #869784
      Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
      Participant

        Anyone?

        in reply to: o start. Timing? #869627
        Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
        Participant

          Hi, I don’t know what happened to the other post, it looks like it was double-posted, this one is incomplete.

          Here is the link I got from my email:
          https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/65959-no-start-hardly-cranks-timing#176933

          in reply to: No start, hardly cranks. Timing? #869566
          Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
          Participant

            Do you think there is not enough lubrication? The car was sitting for a couple of months. Also that noise while the engine is being rotated. I am thinking the slack is due to insufficient amount of oil. I am probably shooting in the dark but just a thought…

            in reply to: No start, hardly cranks. Timing? #869559
            Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
            Participant

              Hi, thanks for the reply.
              I was rotating the engine clockwise. As for the valves, I just took pictures randomly and I did see them closing and opening. I wonder if there is not enough oil up there, I wonder if would that cause the chain to get floppy.

              in reply to: Rear brake pad not making full contact. 2007 Civic #841790
              Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
              Participant

                Check the lines, make sure they are not kinked. I keep going back to the piston, which may not be moving far enough for full friction. I would inspect it again and make sure there is no crud stuck in there. Also, I would bleed that wheel again, just to make sure, and while you’re there, compare and swap rotors & pads.
                Did you scrape off the brackets of build-up and dirt? The surface has to be clean and “smooth” before you place any lubricant on there. A couple of more things, clean the hub well before placing the rotor on and torque the wheel to specs

                I worked on a friend’s civic before, same problem but both front rotors. We ended up replacing the calipers. The pistons were Ok when we inspected them but the they were not pressing the pads fully. Maybe the caliper in your car is fine, just do the above to make sure everything else works as should, and post back.

                in reply to: Rear brake pad not making full contact. 2007 Civic #841766
                Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                Participant

                  You’ve probably done this but, did you wash the coating off the rotor before installing it? It would not hurt to spray brake cleaner just to make sure grease or something is not making contact with the rotor.

                  Any smell when you brake?

                  in reply to: Rear brake pad not making full contact. 2007 Civic #841736
                  Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                  Participant

                    The edges of the rotor look normal, surface looks as if the pads are not making good friction contact.
                    Air could be trapped somewhere towards that wheel if the lines were opened before, otherwise I would start looking at the caliper piston; does it move in and out?

                    in reply to: 2003 ford taurus v6 3.0 won’t accelerate. #841733
                    Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                    Participant

                      [quote=”steves old ford” post=149266]So we took car over to local parts store and had them scan for codes. Came up with three codes….P0302 mis-fire cylinder 2, P0401 EGR SYSTEM FAULT. The ECM has detected too little flow on the EGR system,, and P0316 Crank sensor condition . Haven’t had a chance to start looking at these. Any Ideas as to which one to look at first?[/quote]

                      How many miles on the car? What is the engine’s operating temperature?
                      When EGR fails to close, it causes exhaust leak in the intake which could trigger a misfire. You need to diagnose the EGR valve and make sure it functions as it should. You can start here: http://www.ehow.com/how_7273272_troubleshoot-egr-valve.html
                      Also, make sure the passageways in the manifold aren’t clogged. Changing the EGR valve may be an option but start with troubleshooting first.

                      in reply to: Engine cranks for a second and stops #639284
                      Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                      Participant

                        I went ahead and removed both camshafts and spark plugs, tried to rotate the engine by hand and it only turns for about 30-40 degrees and stops. Should I remove the cylinder-head then try to rotate it again? I just want to make sure the block is healthy internally. If it rotates, what could possibly be wrong with the head?

                        in reply to: Engine cranks for a second and stops #648749
                        Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                        Participant

                          I went ahead and removed both camshafts and spark plugs, tried to rotate the engine by hand and it only turns for about 30-40 degrees and stops. Should I remove the cylinder-head then try to rotate it again? I just want to make sure the block is healthy internally. If it rotates, what could possibly be wrong with the head?

                          in reply to: ’07 Aveo clutch #648005
                          Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                          Participant

                            If I were you, I would replace the flywheel as it would cost almost the same to get it resurfaced, a little extra $ but it’s worth it.
                            Also, get the thread lock for the flywheel bolts if you are going to reuse them.
                            Another thing is use GM Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid, great stuff!!
                            Good luck!

                            in reply to: ’07 Aveo clutch #637817
                            Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                            Participant

                              If I were you, I would replace the flywheel as it would cost almost the same to get it resurfaced, a little extra $ but it’s worth it.
                              Also, get the thread lock for the flywheel bolts if you are going to reuse them.
                              Another thing is use GM Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid, great stuff!!
                              Good luck!

                              in reply to: Engine cranks for a second and stops #648003
                              Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                              Participant

                                Thanks guys for the responses. (Nice to hear from you Eric).
                                will do and I will post back.

                                in reply to: Engine cranks for a second and stops #637815
                                Noureddine MarighNoureddine Marigh
                                Participant

                                  Thanks guys for the responses. (Nice to hear from you Eric).
                                  will do and I will post back.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
                                Loading…
                                toto slot toto togel situs toto situs toto https://www.kimiafarmabali.com/
                                situs toto situs toto