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Great video.
How about using metric horsepower [Pferdestärke (PS)]. instead of Watts and go all JDM? 280PS makes more sense than 206kW.
I recently replaced both front shocks on my 2006 MkV Volkswagen Golf GTI with Monroes. I was in a hurry and live a long way from a VW dealership so got Monroes as that was what the suspension shop had at hand. I wonder if I should have got genuine Volkswagen parts really though? Car seems fine, but would VW genuine parts have been better?
[quote=”cam0888″ post=135119][quote=”Robotnik123″ post=135028]Thanks will try a compression test.
This is a just an old car I bought for a few hundred dollars that I want to practice auto repair on actually. I’d like to have it running well eventually, but have no timetable on when that might be.[/quote]
You really need to ask yourself if you want to spend money on a 15 yo worn out 2 liter car with 180,000 miles on it. It has probably had a few owners along the way that used the drive it till it breaks maintenance program.
A car like that is fine if you just want experience pulling the mechanicals apart and re-assembling them but other than that you don’t want to be throwing money at a car like that unless it is a collectable and that one is far from it. You will find if you pull down the engine it will require a complete re-build with plenty of new parts etc. Then there is the gear box – also likely worn out and then suspension and steering components and on it goes. You could easily spend thousands even if you did most of the work yourself and then you probably will not get your money back when you try and sell it.
Basically it is just a waste of money and time fixing up a car like that.
In the Mazda family I would be looking at a decent MX5 that could use a little work to bring it back up to scratch and is something you could also modify and improve (but not a clapped out high mileage one that basically needs everything replaced or rebuilt).[/quote]
Yes, you’re right. It may not be economically viable to repair this vehicle. I think I might find a used motor and swap it over myself, which is something I have done with other cars years ago, but as you say the car is pretty worn out anyway. I may just junk it, will see.
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=134999]Big mistake. You do not use synthetic oil in smoking engine. It’s like plugging a leaking hole with dollar bills.
So you had GREY smoke that’ll go away in 10 or so seconds and after whatever you did – basically, removed crud that was plugging holes – now you have GREY and BLUE smoke? And a lot of it?
I am afraid, you have crack somewhere that you just opened. Thing is, metal expands as it warms up and pin holes and cracks close during expansion. That explains short tern original smoke. Now that you cleaned everything, it really opened and here ya go.
626s are good cars….[/quote]It was already smoking badly before, probably from one of the additives I used. I thought a drain and fill with fresh oil might help and I had some synthetic oil lying around already in an open bottle, so that was what I put in. Didn’t want to spend money buying a new jug of dino oil.
Thanks will try a compression test.
This is a just an old car I bought for a few hundred dollars that I want to practice auto repair on actually. I’d like to have it running well eventually, but have no timetable on when that might be.
I have already drained the oil and replaced the filter. I put in 10W-40 synthetic. Before it was running 5W-30.
10W-40 might not be thick enough so might try some smoke stop additive which thickens the oil.
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