[Robert]

Yep works like a champ, gotta get it in so mud to verify though =)

[Robert]

Don’t drive the car with lose lugs that asking for trouble just setting the car down on a wheel with lose lugs should lose the wheel up, and or if its the front wheel turning the steering wheel back and forth. If you live in the rust belt, I hope you have a better time than I did with rotors rusted to the hubs on the Elantras

[Robert]

So here is what happened, due to living in in the rust belt (Pittsburgh, PA), in combination with chevy using cheap material for their steel brake lines back in the early 2000’s, my brake lines rusted to the point where they leaked thus required replacement. The factory lines where all run tightly together along the frame rail, and used plastic clips to hold the lines in place, along with the factory wiring harness. After replacing the lines, using the factory clips was out of the question (most broke during removal 11 year old truck) so the wire harness was kinda left hanging there by its lonesome. I did my best to zip tie it up out of the way, also the lines along with the wiring harness were all run inside the driver side fender well. so the fender liner does a good job of containing it, or so I thought.

So First I started off where Eric said to start at the front diff actuator.

Testing the brown wire resulted in 12v, testing the black wire resulted in 0v, however no ground either….Heres where the red flag went up.
So i traced the wire back to a connector in the driver side fender well. Tested the the pins on the connector, Brown 12v, black 0v-no ground. I figured I’d test ohms 567…..
So I started pulling apart the split loom and following the wires back. That just resulted in a mess of tape, so I just followed the split loom back, it tucks under the cab right next to the cab mount.

With out the plastic clips to hold the harness in place the ground wire got pinched and damaged by the cab/cabmount, The wife came home at that point so I had to finish up and stop playing around,
I cut the black wire at the connector, soldered a new wire to it and ran it to it to a more localized ground. I only had 12ga and 18ga wire, and the ground used by the factory was 16 so i figured go larger and be safe.
Not the cleanest repair, but it was for testing, I’ll go back over it and clean it up later on. Hopefully take some better pictures to.

[Robert]

Once again Eric you saved the day! Ill post back later with what i found so its out there for every one. Thank you SOOOO much!

[Robert]

Mostly work on motorcycles, but I always put one of two things on bolts I almost never leave them bare, thread lock or anti-seize. I go by the German toque spec unless its internal engine work or axle related. Lock tight is for any thing that should not need serviced or checked again in a long time. Anti-seize, should be on every thing else that is exposed.

I used to own a hyundai , after 50,000 miles the rotors were shot, and required replacement, figured go with OEM since they lasted 50K in Pittsburgh winters, well they were so rusted on the the hub, I couldn’t remove them with a 10 lbs sledge hammer. I finally ended up using map gas and heating the rotor til it was glowing and beating until it popped. This turned into me replacing the hub and cv joints, as a precaution. Now I always clean the hubs, with wire brush on an angle grinder, and apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub, changed the rotors again 50,000 miles later no what so ever.

[Robert]

This is more or less a bump, but I just wanted to see if some one could review the diagram and see if my though process is right.

[Robert]

Thanks, but nope its a manual T-Case so no push button switch (like in the video), the switch I’m talking about is mounted to the T case and interfaces with the BCM to activate the the actuator in the front axle.

So I was able to dig up a wiring diagram

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repa … cb2732#top

From my understanding of the diagram it appears that even if i grounded one side of the connector, it still would not complete the circuit to enable 4wd so my test was flawed.

[Robert]

Might want to see if your truck has the updated injectors, I might be wrong but that motor uses a spider style Injector. The old style only had a central style injector and the updated version has injectors at each cylinder. To check which version have youll need to look at the injector system , the old style only had hoses the new syle has a wire that runs to each cylinder. I swapped mine for an ac Delco unit when I had an s-10 because, the OE developed leaks and the new unit improved mpgs. Stay away from any type of after market air filers or exhaust they are only for noise these trucks move a ton of air an the 4.3 uses the same intake and exhaust size as the 5.7 so it’s oversized for the 4.3 to begin with. New diff fluid will go a long way also.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Robert]

Thanks for the video, yeah right now my plan of action is going to be clamp the hoses first and work my way back. I should be able to cover my needle nose vice grips with fuel hose and clamp the brake hoses to see if it changes any thing…..The plus side of this would be I get to buy another set of needle nose vice grips =)

[Robert]

Thanks for the video, yeah right now my plan of action is going to be clamp the hoses first and work my way back. I should be able to cover my needle nose vice grips with fuel hose and clamp the brake hoses to see if it changes any thing…..The plus side of this would be I get to buy another set of needle nose vice grips =)

[Robert]

Yeah I really though it was air in the system because the fluid was black when I purchased truck (most likely from 2004) So I changed it and didn’t make a difference, so I took it to the shop so they could cycle the ABS pump with the scan tool to bleed it. If this pittsburgh weather clears up tomorrow Ill try clamp the brake hoses.

Thanks for all the help so far, I can’t thank you enough for all the information I’ve leared from you!

[Robert]

Yeah I really though it was air in the system because the fluid was black when I purchased truck (most likely from 2004) So I changed it and didn’t make a difference, so I took it to the shop so they could cycle the ABS pump with the scan tool to bleed it. If this pittsburgh weather clears up tomorrow Ill try clamp the brake hoses.

Thanks for all the help so far, I can’t thank you enough for all the information I’ve leared from you!

[Robert]

Thanks,

Eric,
I’ve seen that video, last car that I had a master cylinder go bad in the pedal would slowly sink to the floor. This is a little different, When I press on the pedal it stops close to the floor and If i apply pressure it go’s to the floor (2″). I hate just guessing when it comes to replacing parts but I might need to do that. I cleaned every thing from the caliper with brake clean, and the pads have new shims installed from the factory. Like i said before I am using generic autozone ceramics though.

If a customer brought you a truck like mine what would you do to trouble shoot before you start replacing parts. So I entertain the idea of stainless steel break hoses being a magic fix?

Nate,

No I do not have drums, disk in the rear. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Thanks once again!

[Robert]

Thanks,

Eric,
I’ve seen that video, last car that I had a master cylinder go bad in the pedal would slowly sink to the floor. This is a little different, When I press on the pedal it stops close to the floor and If i apply pressure it go’s to the floor (2″). I hate just guessing when it comes to replacing parts but I might need to do that. I cleaned every thing from the caliper with brake clean, and the pads have new shims installed from the factory. Like i said before I am using generic autozone ceramics though.

If a customer brought you a truck like mine what would you do to trouble shoot before you start replacing parts. So I entertain the idea of stainless steel break hoses being a magic fix?

Nate,

No I do not have drums, disk in the rear. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Thanks once again!

[Robert]

Thanks guys,

Eric I’ve been following you on YouTube for the past few months and I came a cross that video, I’ve tried that 2-3 times with out any change. As of right now I’m about $500 into the breaks in the last month with out much improvement, so I’m scared to assume any thing at this point. Is there any good way to test the master cylinder before you replace it?

A little history on the truck; the PO was the original owner and it was garage kept, it seams that he did not do much to it besides change the oil. Right now as it sits it has 117,xxx on the clock.

[Author]

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