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Before you pull the distributor I would get the engine to top dead center number one cyl. on the compression cycle. Eric has a great video on how to do that with a vacuum/pressure gauge. Also look at the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley align that to zero. That just makes sure you are at tdc. Then the rotor should be pointing to the number one plug wire on the cap. You don’t have to do it that way, it just would give you a known reference point in case you had issues and needed help. The distributor will rotate when you pull it out pay attention about how far the rotor changes. Start in that position when reinstalling it. It may take a couple of try’s. Be carful when reinstalling that the base of the distributor is flush with the manifold before tightening the bolt. Maybe someone that knows that engine could chime in, at one time the distributor drove the oil pump. I don’t know if this engine has that. If so, there will be a slot in the bottom of the shaft of the distributor that the oil pump shaft will fit into. It usually goes in pretty easy. Again, this isn’t the only way to do it, I just think if you needed help it would be a known starting point. Then align the distributor case to the marks you made before pulling it out. You will need to time the engine when done.
That is very cool. An engine overhaul that is $25!
I don’t understand how mechanics are being paid now. I worked in the 70s and 80s and we were paid hourly and commission. We billed by book time and most technicians with good tools could beat book time. How does flat rate work? Sounds like a new guy could starve on flat rate.
That is very cool. An engine overhaul that is $25!
I don’t understand how mechanics are being paid now. I worked in the 70s and 80s and we were paid hourly and commission. We billed by book time and most technicians with good tools could beat book time. How does flat rate work? Sounds like a new guy could starve on flat rate.
Unless the leak is obvious, The right way to do this is to degrease the oil pan and transmission bell housing area. Dry it off Then add ultra violet die to the oil, run the engine and look for the leak with a uv light. On the 5.3 there are a couple of common places for leaks. The oil pan towards the middle of the engine. The rear main also is a common leak. There is also a cover plate on the back of the engine. On the drivers side in the back the is a small two bolt cover that can Leak. The rear main can be tricky, the oil can appear to be dripping off the oil filter and or the starter. It is really leaking out of the main seal and being slung by the flex plate. The oil pan gasket can be changed without removing the engine. The rear main and cover plate requires the transmission be moved way back or removed. The flywheel flex plate needs removed. I would buy a aftermarket service manual if you have never done it. ToyotaKarls breakdown Is excellent. You probably have a 4l60e transmission so it will look different.
Unless the leak is obvious, The right way to do this is to degrease the oil pan and transmission bell housing area. Dry it off Then add ultra violet die to the oil, run the engine and look for the leak with a uv light. On the 5.3 there are a couple of common places for leaks. The oil pan towards the middle of the engine. The rear main also is a common leak. There is also a cover plate on the back of the engine. On the drivers side in the back the is a small two bolt cover that can Leak. The rear main can be tricky, the oil can appear to be dripping off the oil filter and or the starter. It is really leaking out of the main seal and being slung by the flex plate. The oil pan gasket can be changed without removing the engine. The rear main and cover plate requires the transmission be moved way back or removed. The flywheel flex plate needs removed. I would buy a aftermarket service manual if you have never done it. ToyotaKarls breakdown Is excellent. You probably have a 4l60e transmission so it will look different.
The right way to do this is to degrease the oil pan and transmission bell housing area. Dry it off Then add ultra violet die to the oil, run the engine and look for the leak with a uv light. On the 5.3 there are a couple of common places for leaks. The oil pan towards the middle of the engine. The rear main also is a common leak. There is also a small cover plate on the back of the engine. On the drivers side in the back the is a small two bolt cover that can Leak. The rear main can be tricky, the oil can appear to be dripping off the oil filter and or the starter. It is really leaking out of the main seal and being slung by the flywheel. The oil pan gasket can be changed without removing the engine. The rear main and cover plate requires the transmission be moved way back or removed. The flywheel needs to be removed. Changing the actual seal is not too hard. I would buy a aftermarket service manual if you have never done it.
The right way to do this is to degrease the oil pan and transmission bell housing area. Dry it off Then add ultra violet die to the oil, run the engine and look for the leak with a uv light. On the 5.3 there are a couple of common places for leaks. The oil pan towards the middle of the engine. The rear main also is a common leak. There is also a small cover plate on the back of the engine. On the drivers side in the back the is a small two bolt cover that can Leak. The rear main can be tricky, the oil can appear to be dripping off the oil filter and or the starter. It is really leaking out of the main seal and being slung by the flywheel. The oil pan gasket can be changed without removing the engine. The rear main and cover plate requires the transmission be moved way back or removed. The flywheel needs to be removed. Changing the actual seal is not too hard. I would buy a aftermarket service manual if you have never done it.
To save a lot of time, I would go to the home page on this site and type in “p0107” the second letter is a number 0 not an letter o. I checked and there are several post that apply. I saw at least one response by Eric that I would read. My opinion is you should pursue correcting the code. It may be the sensor itself or other condition that could be the cause of the catalytic converter malfunction. If you have access to a scanner that can read live data that will help. If you have a volt meter and vacuum pump you can test just the sensor. I can’t say for sure if you would damage anything by driving it, I would just not ignore fixing the code. I believe the OEM catalytic converter is designed to last the life of the car. I have only heard of them failing early because of some other reason, for example a misfire or vacuum leak over a long period of time. I don’t want to pretend I am a Honda expert, I am trying to help you find what you need on the site.
To save a lot of time, I would go to the home page on this site and type in “p0107” the second letter is a number 0 not an letter o. I checked and there are several post that apply. I saw at least one response by Eric that I would read. My opinion is you should pursue correcting the code. It may be the sensor itself or other condition that could be the cause of the catalytic converter malfunction. If you have access to a scanner that can read live data that will help. If you have a volt meter and vacuum pump you can test just the sensor. I can’t say for sure if you would damage anything by driving it, I would just not ignore fixing the code. I believe the OEM catalytic converter is designed to last the life of the car. I have only heard of them failing early because of some other reason, for example a misfire or vacuum leak over a long period of time. I don’t want to pretend I am a Honda expert, I am trying to help you find what you need on the site.
There is a video on YouTube titled Rochester carburetor choke adjustment. It might help to see someone else do the adjustment. You need to let the car sit overnight then make the adjustment before starting the car. I adjusted them so the flap was closed and just enough tension past that point to hold the flap snugly closed. I don’t think I agree with everything the guy says in the video, but he did the adjustment ok. The choke should pull open slightly as soon as the car starts. I did a lot of overhauls on these but it’s been a while. Sounds like wizetech’s experience is more fresh. I do remember the float bowls leaking.
There is a video on YouTube titled Rochester carburetor choke adjustment. It might help to see someone else do the adjustment. You need to let the car sit overnight then make the adjustment before starting the car. I adjusted them so the flap was closed and just enough tension past that point to hold the flap snugly closed. I don’t think I agree with everything the guy says in the video, but he did the adjustment ok. The choke should pull open slightly as soon as the car starts. I did a lot of overhauls on these but it’s been a while. Sounds like wizetech’s experience is more fresh. I do remember the float bowls leaking.
Love the EICO scope, I thinking it’s about ready for the Smithsonian. If it works for you use it, if I remember correctly those only had about 10k of bandwidth. You are not going to see anything that is very fast but slow moving signals will show ok. Better than nothing.
Love the EICO scope, I thinking it’s about ready for the Smithsonian. If it works for you use it, if I remember correctly those only had about 10k of bandwidth. You are not going to see anything that is very fast but slow moving signals will show ok. Better than nothing.
Because this started after you did the tune up I would recheck all of your work. Maybe you cracked a plug or a wire is arking. Look at how you routed the wires maybe one is too close to the exhaust manifold. Sometimes just to make sure I will run an engine in the dark with the hood open. Because you changed the cap and wire recheck the firing order, make sure you got the wires back in the right places. I’ve done that a few times in my life. Look at the cap and make sure you didn’t crack it. Worse case change everything back one part at a time I would think the culprit would show up in that process. Of course consider what the other guys have suggested.
Because this started after you did the tune up I would recheck all of your work. Maybe you cracked a plug or a wire is arking. Look at how you routed the wires maybe one is too close to the exhaust manifold. Sometimes just to make sure I will run an engine in the dark with the hood open. Because you changed the cap and wire recheck the firing order, make sure you got the wires back in the right places. I’ve done that a few times in my life. Look at the cap and make sure you didn’t crack it. Worse case change everything back one part at a time I would think the culprit would show up in that process. Of course consider what the other guys have suggested.
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