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If you live in the US, I would think most auto parts stores would stock struts for your car. At most, they would get them from the warehouse. I live in a larger city so I am used to having the parts I need on the shelf. Some smaller towns may need to order the parts. Monroe is a typical auto part store brand. They have been ok for me.
Just my opinion, I think Americans got used to automatics on the larger cars we drove in the 70’s. It used to be an extra charge for an automatic transmission in the 60’s and 70’s. Once more people started paying for automatics it switched. You had to pay extra for a manual transmission. I think a lot of people found it difficult to drive a manual, especially taking off on a hill. When I was young I loved to drive a manual transmission, now not so much.
Just my opinion, I think Americans got used to automatics on the larger cars we drove in the 70’s. It used to be an extra charge for an automatic transmission in the 60’s and 70’s. Once more people started paying for automatics it switched. You had to pay extra for a manual transmission. I think a lot of people found it difficult to drive a manual, especially taking off on a hill. When I was young I loved to drive a manual transmission, now not so much.
If you can get the job done with the tools you have than great. I do feel there is a slight difference in tool designs. For example, at one time Snap-on was the only one with flank drive on their wrenches and sockets. Now it seems most other brands have some version of that feature. I have a mix of several brands including Craftsman. I am just as proud of my Craftsman tools as I am of Snap-on, Mac or Matco tools.
I don’t buy many Harbor Freight or similar tools. If you are careful, some of them are acceptable for one-off use. I noticed Eric uses Harbor Freight AC gauges. That is a good example of one of their tools that work fine for low volume use. I don’t think I would buy their line wrenches, I have seen too many that actually bend, spread and slip when used. jMHO
If you can get the job done with the tools you have than great. I do feel there is a slight difference in tool designs. For example, at one time Snap-on was the only one with flank drive on their wrenches and sockets. Now it seems most other brands have some version of that feature. I have a mix of several brands including Craftsman. I am just as proud of my Craftsman tools as I am of Snap-on, Mac or Matco tools.
I don’t buy many Harbor Freight or similar tools. If you are careful, some of them are acceptable for one-off use. I noticed Eric uses Harbor Freight AC gauges. That is a good example of one of their tools that work fine for low volume use. I don’t think I would buy their line wrenches, I have seen too many that actually bend, spread and slip when used. jMHO
[quote=”wysetech” post=99675]Obviously if he changed the distributor cap and rotor it doesn’t have a coil pack.[/quote]
Sorry, I missed that. I saw 3.1 and assumed it was a dis. My error, thanks for pointing that out.
[quote=”wysetech” post=99675]Obviously if he changed the distributor cap and rotor it doesn’t have a coil pack.[/quote]
Sorry, I missed that. I saw 3.1 and assumed it was a dis. My error, thanks for pointing that out.
I’m not sure we are talking about the same engine. The 3.1l chevy engine I know has three coils on top on the ignition module. One coil is used for two cylinders, so 3 coils for a six cylinder engine. You didn’t say what year? Here is a link for troubleshooting a 3.1. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index_gm_3.1L_3.4L/index_of_articles_1.php .
I’m not sure we are talking about the same engine. The 3.1l chevy engine I know has three coils on top on the ignition module. One coil is used for two cylinders, so 3 coils for a six cylinder engine. You didn’t say what year? Here is a link for troubleshooting a 3.1. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index_gm_3.1L_3.4L/index_of_articles_1.php .
It is very likely you have a bad coil or ignition module. There are test to identify which components are bad. When I get time I will post the links. I would look there before moving on to engine mechanical issues.
It is very likely you have a bad coil or ignition module. There are test to identify which components are bad. When I get time I will post the links. I would look there before moving on to engine mechanical issues.
I know the car was sold but I would like to comment on car fax. I think Car Fax is pretty much worthless. They only report what is reported to them. I travelled a long distance to look at a car once mainly because the car had a clean Car Fax. At first the car looked ok but then I noticed small plies of rust under all of the metal seat post. That made me suspicious, so I pulled one of the carpet door trims by the drivers door. I found the area under the trim filled with sand and mud. (This a an easy way to check for flood damage, the detailers don’t take the time to pull the trim and clean) The car had at one point been under water. I believe it had been a total on a flood/ hurricane insurance claim. car fax had shown no evidence of any insurance claim reported. I think all it does is give you false confidence that the car you are buying is ok.
I know the car was sold but I would like to comment on car fax. I think Car Fax is pretty much worthless. They only report what is reported to them. I travelled a long distance to look at a car once mainly because the car had a clean Car Fax. At first the car looked ok but then I noticed small plies of rust under all of the metal seat post. That made me suspicious, so I pulled one of the carpet door trims by the drivers door. I found the area under the trim filled with sand and mud. (This a an easy way to check for flood damage, the detailers don’t take the time to pull the trim and clean) The car had at one point been under water. I believe it had been a total on a flood/ hurricane insurance claim. car fax had shown no evidence of any insurance claim reported. I think all it does is give you false confidence that the car you are buying is ok.
It is hard to tell for sure what all is damaged. For sure the hub is broken (duh). You would probably do ok getting one from a salvage yard. It looks like the cv joint on the half shaft also broke, I would go with a rebuilt half shaft rather than trying to reassemble that one.
It is hard to tell for sure what all is damaged. For sure the hub is broken (duh). You would probably do ok getting one from a salvage yard. It looks like the cv joint on the half shaft also broke, I would go with a rebuilt half shaft rather than trying to reassemble that one.
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