[Rob]

I’ll probably get to check this tomorrow evening.

I’m not sure what to conclude from this, today it was rather cold (+ fog). Did had to apply some throttle to keep it going now.

And what should i actually see when someone puts the key in the on position? A tiny bit of movement, or just a ‘click’ or should it move significantly/all the way?

*edit*
Another question, whilst i’m at it, in the schematic drawing in the manual, in the top left corner of the by-pass ‘chamber’ are two mostly black rectangles, what do they represent? Is there something on the inside of this valve that could be stuck/malfunctioning?

I hope this thing turns out to be broken, as it would be a nice and easy fix. There is about 6 of these car’s on a scrapyard i drive by every day on my way to work. What confuses me is that it only acts up when the engine is cold, if this is broken shouldn’t it have issues when warmed up too?

[Rob]

I’ll probably get to check this tomorrow evening.

I’m not sure what to conclude from this, today it was rather cold (+ fog). Did had to apply some throttle to keep it going now.

And what should i actually see when someone puts the key in the on position? A tiny bit of movement, or just a ‘click’ or should it move significantly/all the way?

*edit*
Another question, whilst i’m at it, in the schematic drawing in the manual, in the top left corner of the by-pass ‘chamber’ are two mostly black rectangles, what do they represent? Is there something on the inside of this valve that could be stuck/malfunctioning?

I hope this thing turns out to be broken, as it would be a nice and easy fix. There is about 6 of these car’s on a scrapyard i drive by every day on my way to work. What confuses me is that it only acts up when the engine is cold, if this is broken shouldn’t it have issues when warmed up too?

[Rob]

Going to check out some axel stands after work tomorrow, 1500 kg each, 2 for a good price. My car weighs 900kg so if they seem well made and secure i’ll bring them home.

Last tools i did got were a midlock gasket scraper and some throttle body cleaner.

[Rob]

Going to check out some axel stands after work tomorrow, 1500 kg each, 2 for a good price. My car weighs 900kg so if they seem well made and secure i’ll bring them home.

Last tools i did got were a midlock gasket scraper and some throttle body cleaner.

[Rob]

Just take it out but leave the connector on? Do i need someone to turn the key for me while i take a look, or can i just turn the key and then look if it has chanced position?

Sadly i have no time for this during day time hours till next weekend.

[Rob]

Just take it out but leave the connector on? Do i need someone to turn the key for me while i take a look, or can i just turn the key and then look if it has chanced position?

Sadly i have no time for this during day time hours till next weekend.

[Rob]

Does it occur both with cold and warmed up engine? My situation is very similar, but when its all warmed up the problem is gone. Same for you?

[Rob]

Does it occur both with cold and warmed up engine? My situation is very similar, but when its all warmed up the problem is gone. Same for you?

[Rob]

[quote=”college man” post=80857]It sounds like the IAC is not working correctly. Also
with the ports not being dirty.sounds like its staying
closed or is slow responding.[/quote]

Whatever the issue might be, the result is indeed that the system that regulates my idle speed sometimes seems to take 10-15 seconds to wake up and realize we’re running a bit slow, before correcting it (with some overshoot). But only when its cold.

The temperature sensor i’ve measured is on the thermostat valve itself, you can barely reach it behind the valve cover and cables.

Another interesting bit of text in my manual:

Fail-safe function reference
Malfunctioning item: Vacuum sensor
Control contents during malfunction:
1 Uses the throttle position sensor signal + engine speed from crank angle sensor to take reading of the basic injector drive time and basic ignition timing from the preset mapping.
2 Fixes the ISC serve in the appointed positiont so idle control is not preformed

What it isn’t really clear on is weither or not this should trip my engine warning light. This comes on during starting, and then goes off again within seconds as i believe its suppost to do..?

[Rob]

[quote=”college man” post=80857]It sounds like the IAC is not working correctly. Also
with the ports not being dirty.sounds like its staying
closed or is slow responding.[/quote]

Whatever the issue might be, the result is indeed that the system that regulates my idle speed sometimes seems to take 10-15 seconds to wake up and realize we’re running a bit slow, before correcting it (with some overshoot). But only when its cold.

The temperature sensor i’ve measured is on the thermostat valve itself, you can barely reach it behind the valve cover and cables.

Another interesting bit of text in my manual:

Fail-safe function reference
Malfunctioning item: Vacuum sensor
Control contents during malfunction:
1 Uses the throttle position sensor signal + engine speed from crank angle sensor to take reading of the basic injector drive time and basic ignition timing from the preset mapping.
2 Fixes the ISC serve in the appointed positiont so idle control is not preformed

What it isn’t really clear on is weither or not this should trip my engine warning light. This comes on during starting, and then goes off again within seconds as i believe its suppost to do..?

[Rob]

the device + the tiny bit of dirt that came out of the uncleaned hole. I did wipe the ISC clean last time i had it out.

The connector. Appearently i should meassure resistance between several of them (going to assume the test harnas is just to have better acces and not cross-wired..

Resistance, meassured as indicated in the manual (should be 28-33 ohm @ 20C)
29.0-29.1 for the top row (center pin common)
29.1-29.2 for the bottom row

anything else i can do to test this without test harness? I have some batteries, wires and clips to hook up things myself, just not sure what should be connected to what (6volt is what this works on appearently) just haven’t got the time to do that now.

[Rob]

the device + the tiny bit of dirt that came out of the uncleaned hole. I did wipe the ISC clean last time i had it out.

The connector. Appearently i should meassure resistance between several of them (going to assume the test harnas is just to have better acces and not cross-wired..

Resistance, meassured as indicated in the manual (should be 28-33 ohm @ 20C)
29.0-29.1 for the top row (center pin common)
29.1-29.2 for the bottom row

anything else i can do to test this without test harness? I have some batteries, wires and clips to hook up things myself, just not sure what should be connected to what (6volt is what this works on appearently) just haven’t got the time to do that now.

[Rob]

@slotcar

I’ll keep my eye out for a possible 2nd sensor, cant find mention of such in my documents though. 1 fluid temp sensor + the procedure to check it (so and so many ohms) is in there.

@college man
Thats the electrical device Mitsubishi calls the ISC i assume? I think i didn’t gave that enough attention after all. The business end of it just looked like a piece of plastic, it covered with some sod, but nothing ‘terrible’. I actually thought it was a rotary actuator 😳 but it appears to be a plunger that opens/shuts? The manual atleast offers some coil resistance for me to measure (with a testing harness i don’t have)

I’m going to rip it out and whats what.. and bring a mirror to look inside better. Better bring a torch if i don’t hurry up!

[Rob]

@slotcar

I’ll keep my eye out for a possible 2nd sensor, cant find mention of such in my documents though. 1 fluid temp sensor + the procedure to check it (so and so many ohms) is in there.

@college man
Thats the electrical device Mitsubishi calls the ISC i assume? I think i didn’t gave that enough attention after all. The business end of it just looked like a piece of plastic, it covered with some sod, but nothing ‘terrible’. I actually thought it was a rotary actuator 😳 but it appears to be a plunger that opens/shuts? The manual atleast offers some coil resistance for me to measure (with a testing harness i don’t have)

I’m going to rip it out and whats what.. and bring a mirror to look inside better. Better bring a torch if i don’t hurry up!

[Rob]

I’d probably go and see. If the owner wants you back, the issue of why you left in the first place seems kinda natural to come up again. If they recognise that and want to talk about how things are and aren’t going to go from now on, you should probably be able to let that go and start over. Atleats to an extend where you can work with someone, just straight forward work talk, not much else.

[Author]

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