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You get to do this for a living, we get help and info B) sounds like a good deal for all of us!
I found your channel a while ago via suggestions in the youtube side bar, those were on the ETCG channel. I appriciate these ‘side stories’ on things you run in to as a (car) mechanic, and your attitude towards mistakes, doing honest business and how you want to make your video’s.
The repair video’s are just how i like them, not too rushed, no sloppy work but not always 100% by the book either, honesty about that and some attention towards safety. Not going back to the basics of everything all the time, but not assuming that the things you are doing are all obvious to the viewers. I think you found a really nice balance between all those things, keep it up.
Mayby you could add a big ‘Thank you’ button on the FAQ pages, just to see how many people do use them and don’t need to start a thread on the forum as a result of all your typing. I can imagen that seeing questions you’ve answered countless times will become irritating.
What i also want to say is that, so far atleast, this forum seems to have a generally positive feel to it. Which in my experience is rare on forums where people ‘only’ sign up to get a solution to thier problem. I’m sure your own positive and helpful attitude has something to do with that, but also big thanks to the members here that just want to be nice and helpful 😉
And it became a crank, no start today at a few degree’s below freezing. #$%#
Bad judgement call having the garage visit 2 weeks away..
And it became a crank, no start today at a few degree’s below freezing. #$%#
Bad judgement call having the garage visit 2 weeks away..
Scheduled a visit to the garage for the old box. The garage i want to take it to doesn’t has a very fancy building and deal with older japanese cars a lot, they don’t have time till friday or somewhere next week. Can’t really take a day off anymore so they get it in my vacation, the two days before xmas i don’t need it.
The guys first respons to the story was ‘sounds like some temperature senitive valve or sensor’. Told him i had checked air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, ISC stepper, TPS/idle switch and cleaned the throttle body, ISC body + bi-metal mechanism and the EGR valve.
I guess they are just gonna have to go and take a look/test drive for themselfs, atleast i won’t have to pay them for cleaning stuff.
2 weeks left to sort it myself and save a bit of money 😉
Scheduled a visit to the garage for the old box. The garage i want to take it to doesn’t has a very fancy building and deal with older japanese cars a lot, they don’t have time till friday or somewhere next week. Can’t really take a day off anymore so they get it in my vacation, the two days before xmas i don’t need it.
The guys first respons to the story was ‘sounds like some temperature senitive valve or sensor’. Told him i had checked air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, ISC stepper, TPS/idle switch and cleaned the throttle body, ISC body + bi-metal mechanism and the EGR valve.
I guess they are just gonna have to go and take a look/test drive for themselfs, atleast i won’t have to pay them for cleaning stuff.
2 weeks left to sort it myself and save a bit of money 😉
Hm the forum ate my reply it seems.
Well, cleaned, tested (freezer/oven), put it all back, had the engine relearn its settings for 10 minutes, let it cool down, and test drove it. No luck, problem remains. I’ve tested it several times, with a bit more or less opening on the valve by default (the bi metal coil is screwed in place with a little adjustment slot) this seems to have some marignal effect on how the engine idles when cold, but the problem is still there.
Any other things i should be looking at / testing? I really hoped this was it, so i’m kind of clueless now. Vacuum leaks that i might have missed keeps springing back to mind. I’ve seen ppl check for this with cigar smoke, is that worht a try? Only tried by ear/eye and with some earosols so far.
🙁
Hm the forum ate my reply it seems.
Well, cleaned, tested (freezer/oven), put it all back, had the engine relearn its settings for 10 minutes, let it cool down, and test drove it. No luck, problem remains. I’ve tested it several times, with a bit more or less opening on the valve by default (the bi metal coil is screwed in place with a little adjustment slot) this seems to have some marignal effect on how the engine idles when cold, but the problem is still there.
Any other things i should be looking at / testing? I really hoped this was it, so i’m kind of clueless now. Vacuum leaks that i might have missed keeps springing back to mind. I’ve seen ppl check for this with cigar smoke, is that worht a try? Only tried by ear/eye and with some earosols so far.
🙁
Little update:
Removed the IAC from the spare throttle body, penetrating oil and big locking pliers did the job. From the outside it is identical to the one on my car, but i won’t get it off without removing the throttle body from the car.
There doesn’t appear to be some wax driven system in there, what i did found was a plug with a bi metal coil and butterfly valve like plastic bit to make the opening smaller.
It appears to be shut more at lower temperatures, got it sitting above the heater now to see what happens when ‘the engine’ and the whole assembly heat up.Seems to be the other way around actually, hadn’t put it back properly. The one on my car could have been stuck in the hot position since last winter, collect dirt for possibly 15 000 miles, and now give me issues.
I might actually be able to check the functioning of this valve without removal of the IAC ‘body’, the plug is somewhat accesable. First thing saturday morning i’m going to check this out.
Little update:
Removed the IAC from the spare throttle body, penetrating oil and big locking pliers did the job. From the outside it is identical to the one on my car, but i won’t get it off without removing the throttle body from the car.
There doesn’t appear to be some wax driven system in there, what i did found was a plug with a bi metal coil and butterfly valve like plastic bit to make the opening smaller.
It appears to be shut more at lower temperatures, got it sitting above the heater now to see what happens when ‘the engine’ and the whole assembly heat up.Seems to be the other way around actually, hadn’t put it back properly. The one on my car could have been stuck in the hot position since last winter, collect dirt for possibly 15 000 miles, and now give me issues.
I might actually be able to check the functioning of this valve without removal of the IAC ‘body’, the plug is somewhat accesable. First thing saturday morning i’m going to check this out.
Ok, checked the functioning of the IAC.. and this does what it should.
Did go by the junkyard to pick up another one, they only would sell it with the intire throttle body. It also has another TPS on it, am i going to want to test that too? Got a week to return it. They both do the same thing once hooked up, the one that belongs to my car actually makes smoother/less noise while it operates.
Edit again 😛 This wax pellet by-pass system, is that somehow operated by temperature sensitive mechanisms, bi-metal or something along those lines? since i do have the whole throttle body as spare here now, i could swap the whole IAC unit (given i get those 4 philips head screws out that is)
Ok, checked the functioning of the IAC.. and this does what it should.
Did go by the junkyard to pick up another one, they only would sell it with the intire throttle body. It also has another TPS on it, am i going to want to test that too? Got a week to return it. They both do the same thing once hooked up, the one that belongs to my car actually makes smoother/less noise while it operates.
Edit again 😛 This wax pellet by-pass system, is that somehow operated by temperature sensitive mechanisms, bi-metal or something along those lines? since i do have the whole throttle body as spare here now, i could swap the whole IAC unit (given i get those 4 philips head screws out that is)
Thats one to look at in the weekend then, thanks for the info!
I guess this answers my questions about pushing it down, lets not do that 😆
I think i’ll make a quick stop at the car junkyard place and see if i can pick up another of these units, hardly have to go out of my way for it and they take returns so might aswell have another part to test with me.
Thats one to look at in the weekend then, thanks for the info!
I guess this answers my questions about pushing it down, lets not do that 😆
I think i’ll make a quick stop at the car junkyard place and see if i can pick up another of these units, hardly have to go out of my way for it and they take returns so might aswell have another part to test with me.
Seems i was too slow! I was just busy editing my old post with some more questions.
Did your typical idle problems also disappear after the engine had warmed up?
Also, can you just push down on this plunger to test if it will move? With next to no presure it would go down less then 1 mm orso, didn’t felt like something that should be pressed harder. Sorry for all the questions, don’t know much about electronis and less about servo/stepper motors. So i tend to be rather careful with them :blush:
Seems i was too slow! I was just busy editing my old post with some more questions.
Did your typical idle problems also disappear after the engine had warmed up?
Also, can you just push down on this plunger to test if it will move? With next to no presure it would go down less then 1 mm orso, didn’t felt like something that should be pressed harder. Sorry for all the questions, don’t know much about electronis and less about servo/stepper motors. So i tend to be rather careful with them :blush: