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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=32043]We can post videos right in the forum now! I really liked that video and I hope I get the chance to work with him again in the future. He’s a very knowledgeable guy and I learn a lot whenever we do a project together like this. Thanks for your input.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmcCVQK87TU%5B/quote%5D
He’s not downright knowledgeable guy.. I can relate to my profession where I don’t know why it doesnt work, but it’s how he works ruling out things, pinpointing and the knowledge of what can affect the part he has in question and affect that part to get a output.
try getting him to fix something using only a mechanical point of view without scopes, like an complicated issue ? I bet He’s just as good, wud be fun to see.. 🙂
Valuable friend to have eric 🙂Some updates.
Purchased new block with fly pistons and all, it’s recently been overhauled so it’s in very good condition.
other updates is arrival of radiator
it was brushed alu, I didn’t like that, painted!
Valve cover was messed up, wanted it to be pretty, cleaned inside and sanded outside.
Used engine paint, matt black and brake caliper paint hand painted on the letters.
And just like everything else, I do everything myself 🙂
Update 01.10.2012
Today I started cleaning the intake manifold, and they are now clean for any oil and dirt !
However I’ve not done anything technical to them as of yet, I started with the throttlebody.
I will keep the stock throttlebody cause other throttlebody’s that you get as a tuning part are usually just larger.
My build will be just 350 WHP max! internal parts will be easily able to do 600+! but I want response and reliability.
So the stock throttlebody will give be just that, response!The stock body is forged and haven’t been machined to remove edges and have a rough surface.
The butterfly plate also is angled at idle, I’ve decreased this angle slightly by making the whole thing slightly larger and increased the angle at full throttle from 85 degree angle to exact 90 degree, that will also move more air, less resistanse and since it’s small it will have velocity and that’s what you need for response.
So I’ve improved velocity and throughput without much cons, took some time though.
Update 06.10.2012
As my nick says, Perfection is my goal all the time.
Altenator is done, Starter is done if i havent said it, lower intake manifold done, upper plenum/manifold needs to get painted, fuelrail is getting fixed as we speak
Lets take a look on the altenator, finally a before and after photo!
The altenator was strange, cause you have to open the whole damn thing to get to the brushes, and I didn’t understand how these mitsu’s was fitted together untill i recieved a tip.
Drill and bore a hole in the brushes, gave sense to me quite quickly after a view on the assembly.On the bottom of the altenator there is a rubber grommit, take it out, on the bottom of the brush assembly there is a hole.
Pushing in the brushes then taking a bore and bore it so you get a tiny hole in them.Fit it together with the bottom cover, then push in the brushes and stick a needle or the bore you used in the back of it and it’ll hold the brushes in, I found very little info regarding this!
Altenator before rebuild
After
Hallo, Nordmann her 🙂
Yeah american cars in europe, why bother.. the big suv’s gets imported cause europe doesnt have any of that, so dodge ram and ford explorer is pretty much the only thing you see that is american around here, maybe more american cars in car friendly Sweden, Norway hate cars 🙁
But an engine is an engine 🙂
welcome!
[quote=”EndSupremacy” post=31518]You do bring up some good questions, but again, unless their is a problem or your transmission starts to slip, leave it be. I know you said thats what you are going to do, I’m just repeating myself. My friend had to change out his transmission on his 96 passat. I don’t remember what was the problem. It goes without saying, when you need to work on your transmission, thats when you put new fluid and filter in.[/quote]
VW does reccomend ATF on dsg… every 40 000 miles!
DSG boxes break more often than your brake discs, no kidding, stay clear of them.They say they’ve fixed it after 2009 y. models.
[quote=”mckrishes” post=31362]I used to use fram oil filters. I’ve seen the videos on you tube and read the discussions about how bad they are. I’ve never had a problem with them before. Whenever the auto parts stores have deals on oil and filters, I buy them from there. And the filters I usually get are good quality. The most recent one was a Bosch premium filter. So far so good.[/quote]
Old carb motors, don’t bother expensive ones, small turbo charged, pay the extra premium.
A civic with 1.6 or 2.0 stock bhp engines can run fram filters, just change more often than reccomended, your engine will thank you, better with more often oil changes with cheaper oil and cheaper filters( do run fully synth on engines that can) but no need for expensive stuff 🙂[quote=”dirtywaters1978″ post=31383]Thats a real good price on a pump.If the filter were in the fuel tank i would have no problem waiting for the pump to kick the bucket.Its nice to see most of ford vehicles have the filter under the drivers seat on the frame.I have had a dodge caravan have the pump go bad twice in five years by just waiting two years to change the filter.Sadly most caravans dont have fuel pressure ports on the rail….pita.Every year i take off my filters and cut those puppys open and the brown flaky sludge that comes out.Have you cut a fuel filter thats been on a car for three years lately?….it might surprise you
And i kinda am stubborn about buying dealership parts if i can.
Not to take off topic but im curious if eric will chime in on aftermarket or oem.[/quote]
I did mine after 10 years, no gue, and I did another one same milage, gue…. diffrence is, mine requires premium fuel, the other doesn’t.
But the main thing is, filters are usually after the pump, but excess fuel is returned to the tank, so crap going past the filter into the loop again, or clogged up filters can cause more load and make the inductor in the pump engine burn, but usually the pump itself doesnt mind a little dirt, as petrol always has some
400 for a fuelpump ?? where do you buy them… Go a Walboro 255LPH, or two if you have a serious fuel guggling monster. or do as my friend, 4 of them and still doesnt reach 400 usd
Doesnt matter if the car isn’t for it, they usually work unless the car is old carb motor, without fuel regulator and needs to have a really specific fuel pressure, I’ve done 7 diffrent cars and all had no issues with a Walboro 255LPH, sometimes a bracket needs to be fixed.
Saab 95 Turbo
Saab 900
Nissan Primera 1.6 GX GA16de
Nissan 200SX S14a SR20DET
Toyota avensis 1.6
Toyota Yaris 1.0
Ford Focus 2.0
None of them complained after a 255 LPH walboro pump 🙂They are at the cheapest 90 bucks a piece, and standard price is 140 usd.
and the filters are usually AFTER the pump, you have a not very effecient filter in the tank itself.
Fuelfilters should be 3 year period change. pumps every 10th year.
Fuel filters should not cause any issues before your car have rolled 160 000 miles and is 10 years old, but it far from hurt changing them 😉[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=31172]The first dealership I worked at flat rate was not really a problem other than it was a team system which had it’s own shortcomings and advantages. At the second dealership there just wasn’t enough work to support the techs working there and as a result I did other jobs, one of them was video production BTW. Thing is in the end they let me go because I was asking for too much time off to do video. I guess the moral of the story is that yes, do what you can to make a living but try to keep the balance so that you don’t loose your primary job as a result. As for salary it can work both ways too. With flat rate they don’t care as much if you walk out the door early if your work is done, you might miss an opportunity but it might be one that keeps you there late. With salary you aren’t walking out the door early and if it’s slow you might find yourself mowing the lawn, cleaning the bathrooms, or some other menial task that’s not repair related. At the end of the day the grass is always greener I suppose.
In summary, flat rate can be feast of famine but at least you have some freedom. Salary has security however you don’t have the freedom that flat rate can sometimes provide, it also puts a cap on how much you can make. It’s also possible to work a salary job where you bill way over 40 hours but only get paid 40. It’s all in what you’re comfortable with I suppose. I think it really depends on the work environment and how the shop is run. Salary AND flat rate can work if you’re in the right shop.[/quote]
Good points, I assume banks work in the same way everywhere, with a flat rate you have better chances of a loan, as you have a security and a steady income, something the bank can work after.
that can lead to lower interest for some reason only economy people know 😛[quote=”peelman” post=31171]Very nice!. Can’t tell by the picture, but is it left hand drive?. Did you change the colour of our gage cluster to white?.[/quote]
its a LHD yes, imported from Switzerland to Norway two years ago, I’m pretty sure it’s a german Cold weather edition (heated seats, heated windows, extra heating etc) the manual is definately in german.
The Guage cluster was painted matt black (small change from stock, prettier nonetheless), then change dials to some italian white face. and chrome rings were added.
The guage cluster reads 20-300 kmh instead of 0-260 kmh and it’s not reading incorrectly 🙂[quote=”peelman” post=31162][quote=”road2perfection” post=31160]Good to see more Nissan fans around here 😀
I got a Primera and a EU spec 200SX (US is 240SX but mine got the SR20det engine)[/quote]Certainly is road2perfection. any pics?.[/quote]
Ofc! the spec list is atm incomplete as ETCG updated and destroyed the whole thread :p
ETCG build threadAnd all the photos that have been unfortunately lost 🙁
Some cosmetic things have been added
Some meeters:
Some suspension arms and collars:
Turbo header install, not all complete in this pic:
Start of the new engine 🙂
Good to see more Nissan fans around here 😀
I got a Primera and a EU spec 200SX (US is 240SX but mine got the SR20det engine)New engine in the making, old is still kicking, measured sub 6 seconds 0-62 with a engine in the trunk and one passenger..
Will still be SR20DET, but stroked to 2.2, ported, a few degrees on the cams, 240 degree to 252 to maintain driveability, turbine will be a small T28 ball bearing GT2860RS meaning response and reliability, as the internal parts will be enough for 650 WHP and i’ll be doing 350.