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drove this saturday at track.
Inboard video, running smooth boost
Youtube LinkRan like a champ, boiled the brakes the 2nd heat, this is the 9th heat or so..
Also, lately I’ve been busy making a new garage.
Photo quality is a bit bad(phone..), but the garage is 100% budget built, free stuff everywhere, lamps, fusebox, paint, materials for doors and gates are all free or very very low cost 🙂
Naturally, what is a fridge without a few turbo’s ? (all working too!, middle one did 550 whp on a volo 2.6 L 8V)
I’ve taken 1/3rd of the engine bay apart, so I’m soon ready for head swap 😀
drove this saturday at track.
Inboard video, running smooth boost
Youtube LinkRan like a champ, boiled the brakes the 2nd heat, this is the 9th heat or so..
Also, lately I’ve been busy making a new garage.
Photo quality is a bit bad(phone..), but the garage is 100% budget built, free stuff everywhere, lamps, fusebox, paint, materials for doors and gates are all free or very very low cost 🙂Naturally, what is a fridge without a few turbo’s ? (all working too!, middle one did 550 whp on a volo 2.6 L 8V)
I’ve taken 1/3rd of the engine bay apart, so I’m soon ready for head swap 😀
“So lets try again….this time, turbo”
Wohooo.
Also, awesome work, using cheap parts to create a extraordinary build, I like.
Keep this stuff comming.as for turbo, GT2860RS sized?
“So lets try again….this time, turbo”
Wohooo.
Also, awesome work, using cheap parts to create a extraordinary build, I like.
Keep this stuff comming.as for turbo, GT2860RS sized?
last photo 🙂
So now to winters activity. (get a cup of coffee :cheer: )
If you look closely on the photo you can see my hood is all messed up..
YES it did go over my windscreen and also messed up my roof.So all the bodywork will have a go over, and it will be resprayed, in the same color!
All the parts on the underside that I have a oven to fit will be powder coated.
Engine Bay will get a cleanup and respray.The respray is actually half of the winters budget, meaning everything below isn’t as expensive as it sounds 🙂
Engine:
SR20VET will be the new engine designation.
SR20VE Head from a P12 Japaneese Primera ((These heads are RARE, and the best you can get for the SR engine)
The head also got something like the v-tec for honda’s, doesn’t sound as catchy, Neo-VVL kicked in yo!
20VE head Port job)
New inlet Manifold (greddy style, lower end from the S14 one I have now, welded flange to fit new head)
New Exhaust Manifold for twinscroll turbo, will be made inhouse in stainless steel.
4x Exhaust gas temperature sensors for each cylinder.
Backpressure sensors for exhaust
Completely new wiring for engine, fuse and relay box in the engine bay will be replaced..
New Turbine Housing from garret, T3 Pulsesplit(twinscroll) with 3″ V-Band outlet.
New downpipe to fit new turbine housing
New AC PS pump and alternator (from donor sr20ve engine)
SR20VE Pickup
SR20VE Oilpump.Bottom end, completely the same as before. total cost is about 2grand (USD) for all of the engine work including turbine housing.
A-lot of details on the headwork is covered by MotoIQ.
Differences is that I will get Oil pressure for VVL from a different place, I will use relocation plates, I will also have a dual solenoid setup for individual intake/exhaust cam switch.
Link here!:
MotoIQ LSR 240SX SR15VET head swapI bought a full engine like this one:
Bought from a Swede in Thailand that deals engines to Scandinavia for a decent price.
I’ve already sold the 6sp LSD Gearbox.TwinScroll housing with the new external wastegate, Compgate 40 from Turbosmart, housing is T3 Divided V band out .82 AR
Some of the wiring and temperature sensors I’m going to install, 4x EGT K type sensors 0-1600 C and 4x K type sensors for Misc (-40 – 600C) as well as all the wiring for the engine, ecu and all sensors
last photo 🙂
So now to winters activity. (get a cup of coffee :cheer: )
If you look closely on the photo you can see my hood is all messed up..
YES it did go over my windscreen and also messed up my roof.So all the bodywork will have a go over, and it will be resprayed, in the same color!
All the parts on the underside that I have a oven to fit will be powder coated.
Engine Bay will get a cleanup and respray.The respray is actually half of the winters budget, meaning everything below isn’t as expensive as it sounds 🙂
Engine:
SR20VET will be the new engine designation.
SR20VE Head from a P12 Japaneese Primera ((These heads are RARE, and the best you can get for the SR engine)
The head also got something like the v-tec for honda’s, doesn’t sound as catchy, Neo-VVL kicked in yo!
20VE head Port job)
New inlet Manifold (greddy style, lower end from the S14 one I have now, welded flange to fit new head)
New Exhaust Manifold for twinscroll turbo, will be made inhouse in stainless steel.
4x Exhaust gas temperature sensors for each cylinder.
Backpressure sensors for exhaust
Completely new wiring for engine, fuse and relay box in the engine bay will be replaced..
New Turbine Housing from garret, T3 Pulsesplit(twinscroll) with 3″ V-Band outlet.
New downpipe to fit new turbine housing
New AC PS pump and alternator (from donor sr20ve engine)
SR20VE Pickup
SR20VE Oilpump.Bottom end, completely the same as before. total cost is about 2grand (USD) for all of the engine work including turbine housing.
A-lot of details on the headwork is covered by MotoIQ.
Differences is that I will get Oil pressure for VVL from a different place, I will use relocation plates, I will also have a dual solenoid setup for individual intake/exhaust cam switch.
Link here!:
MotoIQ LSR 240SX SR15VET head swapI bought a full engine like this one:
Bought from a Swede in Thailand that deals engines to Scandinavia for a decent price.
I’ve already sold the 6sp LSD Gearbox.TwinScroll housing with the new external wastegate, Compgate 40 from Turbosmart, housing is T3 Divided V band out .82 AR
Some of the wiring and temperature sensors I’m going to install, 4x EGT K type sensors 0-1600 C and 4x K type sensors for Misc (-40 – 600C) as well as all the wiring for the engine, ecu and all sensors
[quote=”1999b20″ post=109263]Now today I did a compression test and this is what I got
Dry
1) 180
2) 185
3) 180
4) 187 I’m guessing here it was in between 185 & 190Wet
1)190
2) 195
3)190
4)197 I’m guessing here it was in between 185 & 190[/quote]No issues there, car isn’t to my taste (scared of heights :P) but great result!
[quote=”1999b20″ post=109263]Now today I did a compression test and this is what I got
Dry
1) 180
2) 185
3) 180
4) 187 I’m guessing here it was in between 185 & 190Wet
1)190
2) 195
3)190
4)197 I’m guessing here it was in between 185 & 190[/quote]No issues there, car isn’t to my taste (scared of heights :P) but great result!
Did 210! Miles or 340 km on the Rudskogen track on saturday, car went strong all day without any issues other than a oil breather hose hopping off, just a bit of oil spill in the engine compartment, but otherwise going strong round after round.
Shortcar onboard video round the track
shortcar video linkNo signs of any overheating at all, you will see how the temps were after 20 mins of trackdriving!
I’ll attach some photos 🙂I had to install the seat for once and 4 all.
4 point harness, did just the drivers side this time.Ecu dashlogger screenshot (yes it’s android app!)
Our stand
being overtaken at the straight by a 400whp+ Opel, serious trackcar, one of the few that managed 🙂
in the middle of the long straight, the photographer had issues focusing with his fairly cheap DSLR
I ended up with not so white rims after a little while, was still several hours of trackdriving left!
Edit:
My thoughts, my experiences and all sorts of things regarding this build.
stick to a budget, stick to your plans, alter from them slightly, my ECU got changed to the better and Turbo was a bit bigger, other than that all my plans from last summer was right on spot.
do not attempt things like this on a daily car and your ONLY car.
make plans according to your skill and knowledge about engines and everything surrounding it, if you don’t understand the concept, don’t attempt it.suspension is the easiest, most important mod of them all, after that you get to brakes.
There is tons of articles, but these key words are IMPORTANT, VERY VERY IMPORTANT, stiffness is not handling!Roll Centre.
Camber Gain.
Toe Gain.
Undampened weight vs dampened weight.Brakes, straight forward, keep weight low, again undampened weight.
as for engine, stick to injectors and fuel delivery and bottom end, those are easy, save the head for later as it’s more complex
the build have been very easy so far, and I will come with details on the future build, and the final edition of this car, a lot of the same parts will be used, OEM spec as much as possible( stealing from other model cars and alike),
and a whole lot of neat ECU technology will be installed.
but for now it’s just to drive and drive this beast, it’s so trustworthy now it’s going to be good to do anything else than just fill up some oil 🙂Did 210! Miles or 340 km on the Rudskogen track on saturday, car went strong all day without any issues other than a oil breather hose hopping off, just a bit of oil spill in the engine compartment, but otherwise going strong round after round.
Shortcar onboard video round the track
shortcar video linkNo signs of any overheating at all, you will see how the temps were after 20 mins of trackdriving!
I’ll attach some photos 🙂I had to install the seat for once and 4 all.
4 point harness, did just the drivers side this time.Ecu dashlogger screenshot (yes it’s android app!)
Our stand
being overtaken at the straight by a 400whp+ Opel, serious trackcar, one of the few that managed 🙂
in the middle of the long straight, the photographer had issues focusing with his fairly cheap DSLR
I ended up with not so white rims after a little while, was still several hours of trackdriving left!
Edit:
My thoughts, my experiences and all sorts of things regarding this build.
stick to a budget, stick to your plans, alter from them slightly, my ECU got changed to the better and Turbo was a bit bigger, other than that all my plans from last summer was right on spot.
do not attempt things like this on a daily car and your ONLY car.
make plans according to your skill and knowledge about engines and everything surrounding it, if you don’t understand the concept, don’t attempt it.suspension is the easiest, most important mod of them all, after that you get to brakes.
There is tons of articles, but these key words are IMPORTANT, VERY VERY IMPORTANT, stiffness is not handling!Roll Centre.
Camber Gain.
Toe Gain.
Undampened weight vs dampened weight.Brakes, straight forward, keep weight low, again undampened weight.
as for engine, stick to injectors and fuel delivery and bottom end, those are easy, save the head for later as it’s more complex
the build have been very easy so far, and I will come with details on the future build, and the final edition of this car, a lot of the same parts will be used, OEM spec as much as possible( stealing from other model cars and alike),
and a whole lot of neat ECU technology will be installed.
but for now it’s just to drive and drive this beast, it’s so trustworthy now it’s going to be good to do anything else than just fill up some oil 🙂[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=106182]Sure, they may not be for everyone but they’re defiantly good for a weekend ‘tinker’ session if you asked me. My affections for them stem more from their mechanical nature. Electronics are absolutes. If there’s a problem, there’s a solution. With carburetors, there may be an adjustment. Finding the right adjustments is part of the challenge for me. Makes me feel more connected to the vehicle.[/quote]
You my friend, really need a standalone ecu, they are not absolute, they are outright fun, and they do what I tell them, every time.
a guy I know has quite a few hours of mapping, however, 49 mpg on the highway with a 2.5 subaru STI with 530 wheel horsepower, you heard that right.
varied driving is 31mpg.
truly spirited on twisty mountain roads are more like 3-7 mpg as there are only so much energy you can get out of fuel.You could probably just convert this old engine, make videos of it, and show it’s not rocket science, cause it’s rather easy to be honest.
As long as boost isn’t involved it’s something every guy who understands basics of engine can learn 🙂however, there are mint classics that should not be converted, ever!, Datsun/Nissan have a few that are godsent.
However, get such an engineering piece costs you more than a arm and leg. 🙁
Turn up the volume 🙂
Inline 6 carbed sound![quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=106182]Sure, they may not be for everyone but they’re defiantly good for a weekend ‘tinker’ session if you asked me. My affections for them stem more from their mechanical nature. Electronics are absolutes. If there’s a problem, there’s a solution. With carburetors, there may be an adjustment. Finding the right adjustments is part of the challenge for me. Makes me feel more connected to the vehicle.[/quote]
You my friend, really need a standalone ecu, they are not absolute, they are outright fun, and they do what I tell them, every time.
a guy I know has quite a few hours of mapping, however, 49 mpg on the highway with a 2.5 subaru STI with 530 wheel horsepower, you heard that right.
varied driving is 31mpg.
truly spirited on twisty mountain roads are more like 3-7 mpg as there are only so much energy you can get out of fuel.You could probably just convert this old engine, make videos of it, and show it’s not rocket science, cause it’s rather easy to be honest.
As long as boost isn’t involved it’s something every guy who understands basics of engine can learn 🙂however, there are mint classics that should not be converted, ever!, Datsun/Nissan have a few that are godsent.
However, get such an engineering piece costs you more than a arm and leg. 🙁
Turn up the volume 🙂
Inline 6 carbed sound!for my “performance” car, there was a few things that shook me, and the obvious.
Tires, yes, tires!
Front ones, veeery expensive all the time, just don’t skimp on it, but if you have a rwd and want spirited driving you can go for less grip in the rear, but they should always have a good wet rating.
manufactures do this all around to decrease traction intentionally do make it a more exciting car.
Check out Scion FRS/Subary BRZ, Prius tires all around, they don’t stick very well.I personally think they could have done that in the rear but changed the fronts.
and the most important purchase have been.
Subframe bushings, or first I just purchased locking collars that costs 40 bucks, and that made the car so so so much more confident, but replaced with harder rubber bushings, and that’s really what have transformed the car most out of all the single mods.anything beyond that is for my own car nerdism, as the standalone ECU which comes at a 3rd 🙂
for my “performance” car, there was a few things that shook me, and the obvious.
Tires, yes, tires!
Front ones, veeery expensive all the time, just don’t skimp on it, but if you have a rwd and want spirited driving you can go for less grip in the rear, but they should always have a good wet rating.
manufactures do this all around to decrease traction intentionally do make it a more exciting car.
Check out Scion FRS/Subary BRZ, Prius tires all around, they don’t stick very well.I personally think they could have done that in the rear but changed the fronts.
and the most important purchase have been.
Subframe bushings, or first I just purchased locking collars that costs 40 bucks, and that made the car so so so much more confident, but replaced with harder rubber bushings, and that’s really what have transformed the car most out of all the single mods.anything beyond that is for my own car nerdism, as the standalone ECU which comes at a 3rd 🙂
[quote=”oze-ford94″ post=104097]Thanks mate, yeah I love the look of the ed, sure BA are more modern and have there looks, but prefer these instead though I’m not fond are they interior so that’s why I’m putting BA gear in (some au parts also), going to take a bit to finish but I’m loving it and get to use my shed, unfortunately no job sob things do take a bit to get done and it only going to be NA Auto for now.
Put it on here to see what the overseas people think of of our fords and ETCG himself hopefully.[/quote]
better than what we’ve had here in europe the last decade or so for sure.
we get those focus RS, fiesta RS, that’s like the bad boy fords here.. haha..
