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Hey Eric, I do a lot of Honda/Acura tranny’s and belong to the TRNW group (buncha pro tranny shops guys). The inline filter is a good idea, but many of the pro’s suggest either replacing the radiator or putting in an external cooler.
the idea being that they have cut a number of the back flushed coolers apart to realize that the particulate material you alluded to, won’t come out at all and really plugs the veins in the cooler itself – especially true on the Acura’s with the external on the top the tranny.
Who cares if the veins are plugged you ask? Well the thing that eats up these tranny’s is heat. So with a plugged cooler, you get limited flow (GPM), and thus poor cooling, and tranny burns up.
I usually do the external cooler and many pros insist on a new radiator – period. They are offering 50K+ warranties (one guy offers 100K/10yr) so they NEVER want to see these units again.
just thought i’d mention it.
Hey Eric, I do a lot of Honda/Acura tranny’s and belong to the TRNW group (buncha pro tranny shops guys). The inline filter is a good idea, but many of the pro’s suggest either replacing the radiator or putting in an external cooler.
the idea being that they have cut a number of the back flushed coolers apart to realize that the particulate material you alluded to, won’t come out at all and really plugs the veins in the cooler itself – especially true on the Acura’s with the external on the top the tranny.
Who cares if the veins are plugged you ask? Well the thing that eats up these tranny’s is heat. So with a plugged cooler, you get limited flow (GPM), and thus poor cooling, and tranny burns up.
I usually do the external cooler and many pros insist on a new radiator – period. They are offering 50K+ warranties (one guy offers 100K/10yr) so they NEVER want to see these units again.
just thought i’d mention it.
The computer will activate the injectors based upon the crank shaft position. If it doesn’t know which position the crankshaft is at, it can’t know when to activate the injector
The computer will activate the injectors based upon the crank shaft position. If it doesn’t know which position the crankshaft is at, it can’t know when to activate the injector
Put a rag around the filter, crack the pressure release nut, turn the key on and if it squirts gas real well, then it’s not a fuel issue.
Given that, next look at the CPS (Crankshaft position sensor) as this is what was intermittent on mine. I’d wiggle the wire where it goes into the timing belt cover and it would fire right up. Busted wire right at the connector.
Easy replacement and ~$100 from Advanced and if you buy online, there are often 40% off coupons.
Put a rag around the filter, crack the pressure release nut, turn the key on and if it squirts gas real well, then it’s not a fuel issue.
Given that, next look at the CPS (Crankshaft position sensor) as this is what was intermittent on mine. I’d wiggle the wire where it goes into the timing belt cover and it would fire right up. Busted wire right at the connector.
Easy replacement and ~$100 from Advanced and if you buy online, there are often 40% off coupons.
The other scan codes are TP sensor and VTEC solenoid failure I believe. With your scan tool connected, read the TPS sensor output. Note the car doesn’t need to be running.
As you press the gas pedal, the reading should change accordingly.
BTW, how long ago(in miles) was the valve job done and was it running fine after that till just recently?
The other scan codes are TP sensor and VTEC solenoid failure I believe. With your scan tool connected, read the TPS sensor output. Note the car doesn’t need to be running.
As you press the gas pedal, the reading should change accordingly.
BTW, how long ago(in miles) was the valve job done and was it running fine after that till just recently?
I think it is a wheel bearing in that when I pulled off the rear hub, the bearing race stayed welded to the axle – I didn’t notice it when I pulled it off the 1st time.
So, how do I get the race off the axle?
rjmiller
I think it is a wheel bearing in that when I pulled off the rear hub, the bearing race stayed welded to the axle – I didn’t notice it when I pulled it off the 1st time.
So, how do I get the race off the axle?
rjmiller
They are the $25 variety from AutoZone, but they squealed before as well. Since I just recently picked up the VAN, which wasn’t drivable, i have no previous history as to how long the squeal has been in place.
BUT, it only do it, AFAIK, in the AM (ie:cold) backing up
They are the $25 variety from AutoZone, but they squealed before as well. Since I just recently picked up the VAN, which wasn’t drivable, i have no previous history as to how long the squeal has been in place.
BUT, it only do it, AFAIK, in the AM (ie:cold) backing up
Thanks.
I just recently picked up the VAN, which had a bad tranny, which i rebuilt, and am now driving on a regular basis. The only brake work done to my knowledge, is the set of front 7 rear shoes i just put on, in an attempt to stop the squeal.
I should have watched this video earlier, as i just checked the rotors/drums for wear groves, and not gloss.