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I was researching this problem and is it possible that the thermal protector on the a/c compressor is going? Would that part if it is questionable, fail after running fine for 7 hours in the 100+ temperatures in Atlanta? I am debating whether to replace
Quoted From risacher:
Update- The cooling fan worked on the compressor side of the car, put the manifold gauges on the system and the low pressure was still kinda low, high side was normal. Decided to replace the dryer, high/low switch, evaporator coil and the expansion valve. The system works great, but occasionally it stops blowing cold air and I shut it off and wait. Then it starts working again? Perhaps it is the compressor relay going bad?
To answer your questions, I did not do the repair, but had a mechanic I know do the work. The low pressure side was around 14 psi, and the high was normal pressure. He added some freon and the low side went up to around 30 psi. The air worked for a couple hours then no cool air. Decided to replace the dryer, high/low pressure switch on the dryer, evaporator coil and the expansion valve. The air runs a lot longer than before, but still cuts off later on in the day. The air temperature is mid eighties. Both fans work and when it stops blowing cool air, the compressor is not turning. I shut it off on the dash and I continue driving. About 20 minutes later, I hit the on/off switch and it works!! Could it be a relay? My mechanic and I thought it was icing in the beginning, but the evaporator coil and hoses were not iced up. Any other thoughts?
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Were you able to check the cooling fan operation yet?
Update- The cooling fan worked on the compressor side of the car, put the manifold gauges on the system and the low pressure was still kinda low, high side was normal. Decided to replace the dryer, high/low switch, evaporator coil and the expansion valve. The system works great, but occasionally it stops blowing cold air and I shut it off and wait. Then it starts working again? Perhaps it is the compressor relay going bad?
Quoted From risacher:
Started the car as usual, drove down the road and the check engine light came on. Had a code pulled at Autozone, it was P1129. Purchased a map sensor, replaced it. Cleared the code and let car relearn idle per instructions. Car drove for 11 miles, then poof, check engine light again. Had the code pulled, P1129. Took car to mechanic, he cleaned the tb and got the car back. Question, could the IAC be bad or perhaps the cat? Had a code p0420 about a month ago. Could the backpressure of a plugged or soon to be plugged cat cause the P1129? Any thoughts?
Update: The car had a vacumn leak in the housing behind the intake manifold. Also, the timing was off a tad. New code popped, p0497. Any ideas?