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Thanks for your help. I’m not going to worry about taking this one back to the shop but I’ll eventually put new rotors on. Thanks again for your help.
Well I actually battled the elements and do have a diagnosis, of sorts. The pads were installed correctly and I was able to get normal movement out of the pins without pulling the caliper off (I was scared to pull it off). The noise is simply a combination of the small “rust ridge” around the outer edge of the rotor which is rubbing against cheap pads. I was able to hear the noise clearly spinning the wheel off the ground.
I am assuming this is not cause for concern? The noise is audible from both rear wheels.
Well I actually battled the elements and do have a diagnosis, of sorts. The pads were installed correctly and I was able to get normal movement out of the pins without pulling the caliper off (I was scared to pull it off). The noise is simply a combination of the small “rust ridge” around the outer edge of the rotor which is rubbing against cheap pads. I was able to hear the noise clearly spinning the wheel off the ground.
I am assuming this is not cause for concern? The noise is audible from both rear wheels.
Thanks for the replies…
Geo, I’m certain the gentleman running the shop will look at the issue and make any repairs necessary since he just fixed them last week. Quite simply, I want to be armed with a little information before I go in asking him to perform additional work and wanted to make sure this was not something simply associated with new pads.
College, thanks for the link. I did read through the article prior to posting and I know a little bit about brakes, I just have never seen or heard of this happening and thought maybe this is just the friction material “breaking in,” so to speak. I was thinking either the rotors were machined rough, the brake pads were not fully installed correctly, or the caliper was not lubricated properly prior to re-installation. I’m thinking it’s one of the last 2 possibilities…
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for the replies…
Geo, I’m certain the gentleman running the shop will look at the issue and make any repairs necessary since he just fixed them last week. Quite simply, I want to be armed with a little information before I go in asking him to perform additional work and wanted to make sure this was not something simply associated with new pads.
College, thanks for the link. I did read through the article prior to posting and I know a little bit about brakes, I just have never seen or heard of this happening and thought maybe this is just the friction material “breaking in,” so to speak. I was thinking either the rotors were machined rough, the brake pads were not fully installed correctly, or the caliper was not lubricated properly prior to re-installation. I’m thinking it’s one of the last 2 possibilities…
Thanks for your input.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=80414]Apparently I was graduating high school when you were an infant. 🙂
That said, to me an 88 isn’t old. I suppose that’s because it was made in my lifetime. I’m finding after posting this video that there are a lot of different opinions of what ‘old’ is. I think that’s cool and it poses an interesting point. I wonder what it will be like when the ‘kids’ of today grow up and talk about that old 2013 Cobalt or Hyundai that their parents drove when they were little. Really puts it in perspective.[/quote]
How do you post pictures? I’d love to post a picture of it
To me, the 88 is an “old car” because my earliest memories of my granddad involved riding in this truck. My parents, however, are like you… an 88 is not that old, so it’s all in how you see it. Maybe it’s not as old as I think it is because I can go to any local autoparts store and buy parts for it. I still say it’s an old car, though :).
I haven’t had the chance to drive anything older than this, but when you think about how far the automotive industry has come in 25 years, it’s pretty awesome. This was the earliest EFI engine GM put in their trucks. It also has one of the most primitive ECMs, as well. It’s very fascinating to work on. I’m very excited about the Fairmont series because of this (my dad’s brother owned a late 60’s Fairmont and my other Granddad owned an early 70’s Mustang). Thanks for the videos. I’ve enjoyed following along and learning a little something along the way.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=80414]Apparently I was graduating high school when you were an infant. 🙂
That said, to me an 88 isn’t old. I suppose that’s because it was made in my lifetime. I’m finding after posting this video that there are a lot of different opinions of what ‘old’ is. I think that’s cool and it poses an interesting point. I wonder what it will be like when the ‘kids’ of today grow up and talk about that old 2013 Cobalt or Hyundai that their parents drove when they were little. Really puts it in perspective.[/quote]
How do you post pictures? I’d love to post a picture of it
To me, the 88 is an “old car” because my earliest memories of my granddad involved riding in this truck. My parents, however, are like you… an 88 is not that old, so it’s all in how you see it. Maybe it’s not as old as I think it is because I can go to any local autoparts store and buy parts for it. I still say it’s an old car, though :).
I haven’t had the chance to drive anything older than this, but when you think about how far the automotive industry has come in 25 years, it’s pretty awesome. This was the earliest EFI engine GM put in their trucks. It also has one of the most primitive ECMs, as well. It’s very fascinating to work on. I’m very excited about the Fairmont series because of this (my dad’s brother owned a late 60’s Fairmont and my other Granddad owned an early 70’s Mustang). Thanks for the videos. I’ve enjoyed following along and learning a little something along the way.
My first vehicle just over 10 years ago was my granddad’s old work truck… a red and white, two tone 1988 Chevrolet Silverado 1/2 ton shortbox with the all-American 5.7L smallblock V8 (although not the original engine… the original suffered a crack in the block and had to be replaced, thankfully with a stock 350). I learned to drive and work on cars on this truck and I am so grateful it is still a part of my life.
A few years ago, I was real close to selling it. The oil sending unit was bad in it and was fooling me into thinking there were some severe oil pressure issues. After taking the truck to the shop and confirming it was a $40 sending unit (you can’t get your air pressure checked for that little money anymore), I went in and gave the old truck a coolant flush, transmission flush, brake flush, and a new belt… the truck drives as good as it ever did. It never had the get-up and go you expect even from more modern trucks, but it’ll still go down the highway great. I even went so far as to get it repainted stock colors. Needless to say, I absolutely love this truck and hope to pass it down to my kids one day.
It has become an absolutely relaxing and escaping experience to drive. It’s a step back in time… thinking that this truck was the top of the line GM truck that was rolling off the assembly lines when I was an infant… a time when you were fortunate to have A/C, a cassette player, and power windows. This truck became a part of my life when I was in Kindergarten and remember the many trips to Lowes and Wal-Mart when I was younger. I hope to share these experiences with my kids one day and hope to hold onto this as a memory of my Granddad for years to come.
My first vehicle just over 10 years ago was my granddad’s old work truck… a red and white, two tone 1988 Chevrolet Silverado 1/2 ton shortbox with the all-American 5.7L smallblock V8 (although not the original engine… the original suffered a crack in the block and had to be replaced, thankfully with a stock 350). I learned to drive and work on cars on this truck and I am so grateful it is still a part of my life.
A few years ago, I was real close to selling it. The oil sending unit was bad in it and was fooling me into thinking there were some severe oil pressure issues. After taking the truck to the shop and confirming it was a $40 sending unit (you can’t get your air pressure checked for that little money anymore), I went in and gave the old truck a coolant flush, transmission flush, brake flush, and a new belt… the truck drives as good as it ever did. It never had the get-up and go you expect even from more modern trucks, but it’ll still go down the highway great. I even went so far as to get it repainted stock colors. Needless to say, I absolutely love this truck and hope to pass it down to my kids one day.
It has become an absolutely relaxing and escaping experience to drive. It’s a step back in time… thinking that this truck was the top of the line GM truck that was rolling off the assembly lines when I was an infant… a time when you were fortunate to have A/C, a cassette player, and power windows. This truck became a part of my life when I was in Kindergarten and remember the many trips to Lowes and Wal-Mart when I was younger. I hope to share these experiences with my kids one day and hope to hold onto this as a memory of my Granddad for years to come.
Well, I took a stab at round 2 of fighting with getting the sending unit today and successfully removed the unit from the tank. I discovered a wire that was no longer connected to the side of the float (where the signal is sent from the side of the float). I also was able to come across a voltmeter and the unit is, indeed, toast. There was nothing on the side of the assembly, nothing in the tank, or no resistance in the arm’s freedom of movement, so the verdict is a “dead spot (as asetoftools said).” I was able to talk to a local Nissan dealer today to discover sending units are a common problem in these model cars and came across a new OEM unit and seals for around $100.
The sending unit comes out of the tank as an assembly on top of the fuel filter and pump, and is attached to eachother via an electrical connection and 2 hoses (one pressurized hose, and I’m assuming a return hose). I was able to undo the electrical connection to the fuel pump, but decided not to fight further because I was unable to undo the hose connections on the underside of the sending unit (the hoses are held on by “internal” clips… you squeeze two tabs and supposedly pull the hoses off). I plan on taking the assembly to the dealer tomorrow and hopefully get a little help in swapping these parts over without tearing anything up, since I have no experience in dealing with these components.
Thank you guys very much for your insight and help.
Well, I took a stab at round 2 of fighting with getting the sending unit today and successfully removed the unit from the tank. I discovered a wire that was no longer connected to the side of the float (where the signal is sent from the side of the float). I also was able to come across a voltmeter and the unit is, indeed, toast. There was nothing on the side of the assembly, nothing in the tank, or no resistance in the arm’s freedom of movement, so the verdict is a “dead spot (as asetoftools said).” I was able to talk to a local Nissan dealer today to discover sending units are a common problem in these model cars and came across a new OEM unit and seals for around $100.
The sending unit comes out of the tank as an assembly on top of the fuel filter and pump, and is attached to eachother via an electrical connection and 2 hoses (one pressurized hose, and I’m assuming a return hose). I was able to undo the electrical connection to the fuel pump, but decided not to fight further because I was unable to undo the hose connections on the underside of the sending unit (the hoses are held on by “internal” clips… you squeeze two tabs and supposedly pull the hoses off). I plan on taking the assembly to the dealer tomorrow and hopefully get a little help in swapping these parts over without tearing anything up, since I have no experience in dealing with these components.
Thank you guys very much for your insight and help.