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After talking with the dealer today, they were able to confirm the IACV is bad (I failed to ask if it was due to coolant contamination, but the tests they ran confirmed it is bad). He’s going to help me out (and this will take longer, but he was happy to do it) is go ahead and order a new IACV from Nissan and replace it and see if the computer is bad, since he cannot determine whether or not the computer is bad until he puts a new IACV on the car.
All that to say the car will be in the shop for a few days, but I’m thankful he’s willing to work with me to try to save as much money as possible. Some, if not most dealers would condemn the whole package and not bother seeing if only replacing the IAVC would solve the problem, even if the odds are not in my favor.
I’ll keep you guys updated… thanks for the input. What happens the next few days will probably determine whether or not I keep the car.
After talking with the dealer today, they were able to confirm the IACV is bad (I failed to ask if it was due to coolant contamination, but the tests they ran confirmed it is bad). He’s going to help me out (and this will take longer, but he was happy to do it) is go ahead and order a new IACV from Nissan and replace it and see if the computer is bad, since he cannot determine whether or not the computer is bad until he puts a new IACV on the car.
All that to say the car will be in the shop for a few days, but I’m thankful he’s willing to work with me to try to save as much money as possible. Some, if not most dealers would condemn the whole package and not bother seeing if only replacing the IAVC would solve the problem, even if the odds are not in my favor.
I’ll keep you guys updated… thanks for the input. What happens the next few days will probably determine whether or not I keep the car.
I have attached a video I took of it’s behavior…
[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UykvBwCpG-g&feature=youtu.be[/video]
I have attached a video I took of it’s behavior…
[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UykvBwCpG-g&feature=youtu.be[/video]
[quote=”Just1Tech” post=88025]Can a Nissan ECM be reprogrammed? ie… A module is taken out of a scrapped Maxima, eBay etc..??
I know Delphi produces an abhorrent amount of ECMs for various manu’s, some are closed firmware some aren’t.
Just asking for Riley’s sake. He could cut that price down enormously if it’s possible.[/quote]
I was wondering that, myself. Obviously, the dealer wants to sell me a new one, but if I can buy a used one that will work with my engine, I’d be all over that.
Thanks for asking for me.
[quote=”Just1Tech” post=88025]Can a Nissan ECM be reprogrammed? ie… A module is taken out of a scrapped Maxima, eBay etc..??
I know Delphi produces an abhorrent amount of ECMs for various manu’s, some are closed firmware some aren’t.
Just asking for Riley’s sake. He could cut that price down enormously if it’s possible.[/quote]
I was wondering that, myself. Obviously, the dealer wants to sell me a new one, but if I can buy a used one that will work with my engine, I’d be all over that.
Thanks for asking for me.
[quote=”college man” post=88015][quote=”rileyd87″ post=88013]Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.
My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?[/quote]
If the IAC is not working and in the closed position air will
not bypass the throttle plate chocking the engine. I would not
have adjusted the base idle with a bad IAC. This could be a
contributing factor for the low idle. If you slightly hold the
throttle open will the car run?[/quote]Yes, the car runs fine with even very slight pressure on the throttle. Even going down the highway, the momentum of the car is barely enough to keep it running if you are coming to a stop light (automatic trans).
[quote=”college man” post=88015][quote=”rileyd87″ post=88013]Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.
My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?[/quote]
If the IAC is not working and in the closed position air will
not bypass the throttle plate chocking the engine. I would not
have adjusted the base idle with a bad IAC. This could be a
contributing factor for the low idle. If you slightly hold the
throttle open will the car run?[/quote]Yes, the car runs fine with even very slight pressure on the throttle. Even going down the highway, the momentum of the car is barely enough to keep it running if you are coming to a stop light (automatic trans).
Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.
My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?
Thanks for the links… that helps tremendously. It makes sense why I need to replace both.
My next question is this: The overwhealming majority of posts online have stated when this happens, idle speed actually goes up where as mine does the opposite and will not stay running at all. Is this steady low/no idle still indicative of this problem?
Brake clean did the trick. I took the belt off, used a toothbrush and Dawn soap on the belt and that cleaned it up well (i did this first before i cleaned the pulleys), then cleaned the pulleys with brake clean and a toothbrush.
I posted this here because I didn’t want to put a substance on the belt that would harm it… Comet is a natural abrasive and i thought had a chance of compromising the life of thebelt and I wasnt sure what chemicals might have a negative effect somewhere else. Some people try things without thinking lol…
Brake clean did the trick. I took the belt off, used a toothbrush and Dawn soap on the belt and that cleaned it up well (i did this first before i cleaned the pulleys), then cleaned the pulleys with brake clean and a toothbrush.
I posted this here because I didn’t want to put a substance on the belt that would harm it… Comet is a natural abrasive and i thought had a chance of compromising the life of thebelt and I wasnt sure what chemicals might have a negative effect somewhere else. Some people try things without thinking lol…
[quote=”college man” post=83165]Pick yourself up a set of KYB GR2 shocks. They are decent
and won’t break the bank. Keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]Thanks for your help, collegeman. It’ll probably be a few months and I’m not rushing since there is no safety or performance issue yet… the pocketbook got hit pretty hard from Christmas. Hope you have a Merry Christmas. I’ll update when I can.
[quote=”college man” post=83165]Pick yourself up a set of KYB GR2 shocks. They are decent
and won’t break the bank. Keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]Thanks for your help, collegeman. It’ll probably be a few months and I’m not rushing since there is no safety or performance issue yet… the pocketbook got hit pretty hard from Christmas. Hope you have a Merry Christmas. I’ll update when I can.
[quote=”college man” post=83163]Its ok to drive. The spring supports the car not the shock.
What type of shocks are you using?[/quote]That’s a good question… It’s more than likely the cheapest Napa had is what was bought by the shop that installed them. If I had to take a guess…
I wanted to make 100% sure there wasn’t a safety hazard of leaving this alone until I can save the money. Either that, or talk to the claims rep of the insurance company… I’m almost certain the issue was cause by being sideswiped and an “unnatural force” was put on the shock resulting in this issue.