Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”NissanMaxx” post=91172]I really don’t like saying stuff like this considering I’m a Nissan guy. But you should honestly sell the car. Once you have problems like this with a Nissan they will not go away. That’s what I would recommend, but it’s up too you.[/quote]
I did end up selling the car. Like you said, by the time I paid the money to get the car running right again, it may not be the last electrical problem the car has and the car just wasn’t worth it to me. In my mind, I attribute most of the blame to the design team that designed the circuit… It’s just a horrible horrible design.
I did end up getting what I wanted to out of it, so that’s a win.
Thank so much for everyone’s input and help. It’s awesome there’s a place like this to find valuable information to help make decisions.
Here I am, 4 weeks later, and here’s the latest…. The car is not fixed. The computer will not take the idle relearn and keeps frying. The dealer told me it’s likely something fried in the main wiring harness and aside from either pulling it out and tearing into it or just replacing the whole harness, there isn’t much that can be done. The car is nowhere near worth the money to fix it, so I’m facing getting rid of the car that has some serious electrical problems.
My question is this… I’ve never been in or seen a situation where a dealer says “look, we can’t fix your car.” Considering the high dollar parts and extensive amount of labor involved, what should I expect when I go to pay my bill? Is it fair to just walk away? What can I expect in terms of fees or a bill? Does anyone have insight?
Here I am, 4 weeks later, and here’s the latest…. The car is not fixed. The computer will not take the idle relearn and keeps frying. The dealer told me it’s likely something fried in the main wiring harness and aside from either pulling it out and tearing into it or just replacing the whole harness, there isn’t much that can be done. The car is nowhere near worth the money to fix it, so I’m facing getting rid of the car that has some serious electrical problems.
My question is this… I’ve never been in or seen a situation where a dealer says “look, we can’t fix your car.” Considering the high dollar parts and extensive amount of labor involved, what should I expect when I go to pay my bill? Is it fair to just walk away? What can I expect in terms of fees or a bill? Does anyone have insight?
Eric has a video on solving engine performance issues, but I will echo what he said… before you do anything else, check the basics. Check, and I would even change, your fuel filter (my 88 chevy truck has a serviceable filter… they are dirt cheap), air filter, oil, transmission fluid (at least check to make sure it’s got some and that it’s pinkish-red in color), and may not be a bad idea to change your plugs and wires. Also, check to see if your cooling system is topped off and free of air. If your truck has sat a while, it’s almost a given these things are going to need to be done, so might as well do it.
If it still has a problem, then go from there, but this should clean up a lot of your issues.
Eric has a video on solving engine performance issues, but I will echo what he said… before you do anything else, check the basics. Check, and I would even change, your fuel filter (my 88 chevy truck has a serviceable filter… they are dirt cheap), air filter, oil, transmission fluid (at least check to make sure it’s got some and that it’s pinkish-red in color), and may not be a bad idea to change your plugs and wires. Also, check to see if your cooling system is topped off and free of air. If your truck has sat a while, it’s almost a given these things are going to need to be done, so might as well do it.
If it still has a problem, then go from there, but this should clean up a lot of your issues.
I will third this advice. Unless you have a tapered roller bearing setup, rotors should cost you $25-$35 apiece… which is about what a shop would charge you to turn them. There are some distinct advantages, mostly a new surface and thicker material (which helps tremendously in heat distribution… a very important job).
Just be sure you get the rust inhibitor off with brake clean and avoid getting silicone or grease on the rotor… don’t ask me how I know this…
I will third this advice. Unless you have a tapered roller bearing setup, rotors should cost you $25-$35 apiece… which is about what a shop would charge you to turn them. There are some distinct advantages, mostly a new surface and thicker material (which helps tremendously in heat distribution… a very important job).
Just be sure you get the rust inhibitor off with brake clean and avoid getting silicone or grease on the rotor… don’t ask me how I know this…
[quote=”valde” post=89689]ECUs used to be designed so that every input could be grounded or connected to battery positive and every output device could short and still ECU was fine. If ECU can be damaged this easy and will do so much damage it almost feels like it’s done on purpose…
But keep us posted.[/quote]
Yea, I have no idea why they designed the ECU to be so vulnerable with this issue. I’m not an engineer, but common sense suggests protecting the engine computer would be a top priority in designing an automotive electrical system. Perhaps the engineers felt these components were well-protected enough (since none are considered “consumable” or wear items) that the circuit would not fail… I honestly don’t know. Perhaps it was just a design oversight… either way, this is just a very horrible design here…
[quote=”valde” post=89689]ECUs used to be designed so that every input could be grounded or connected to battery positive and every output device could short and still ECU was fine. If ECU can be damaged this easy and will do so much damage it almost feels like it’s done on purpose…
But keep us posted.[/quote]
Yea, I have no idea why they designed the ECU to be so vulnerable with this issue. I’m not an engineer, but common sense suggests protecting the engine computer would be a top priority in designing an automotive electrical system. Perhaps the engineers felt these components were well-protected enough (since none are considered “consumable” or wear items) that the circuit would not fail… I honestly don’t know. Perhaps it was just a design oversight… either way, this is just a very horrible design here…
Here is Nissan/Infiniti thread on the subject. What I have gathered from doing research are the IACV and the engine mounts are controlled by the same driver in the ECU… meaning a short in any of those components, or wiring connecting these components, will likely take out at LEAST the ECU (the weakest link in the circuit), and sometimes all 3 components (which is what happened in my case). According to the dealer after talking with them further, revealed an engine mount wire was damaged (pinched), likely when I had the starter replaced about a year ago. After the wiring was compromised enough to expose the wiring (by temperature, dry rot, perfect conditions, etc.), it shorted, taking out the driver in the computer, which took out the IACV and the engine mount. Once a short exists in any component, it will continue to fry the other components, new or otherwise, until the source of the short is discovered and repaired/replaced.
My hopes are this information helps someone because this is a VERY costly repair… I’m lucky to be spending less than $2,000 at this point. If you have a Maxima of this vintage, the SECOND you have an idle problem, get it to the dealer ASAP. You give yourself a chance to save upwards of $1200 in repairs finding this problem quickly.
It is also worth noting you HAVE to take your car to the dealer here… no independent shop (or DYI… unless you are lucky enough to have the Nissan scan tool) will have the capabilities to fully test and replace these components. Replacing the ECU means an idle air relearn on the ECU… and not to mention reprogramming your keys.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/01-i30-stalls-turn-off-when-on-idle-t381947.html
Has anyone had this repair done? Does it have a high success rate, or is it wise to condemn the car and sell it while it still has some value? Can anyone provide some insight there?
Here is Nissan/Infiniti thread on the subject. What I have gathered from doing research are the IACV and the engine mounts are controlled by the same driver in the ECU… meaning a short in any of those components, or wiring connecting these components, will likely take out at LEAST the ECU (the weakest link in the circuit), and sometimes all 3 components (which is what happened in my case). According to the dealer after talking with them further, revealed an engine mount wire was damaged (pinched), likely when I had the starter replaced about a year ago. After the wiring was compromised enough to expose the wiring (by temperature, dry rot, perfect conditions, etc.), it shorted, taking out the driver in the computer, which took out the IACV and the engine mount. Once a short exists in any component, it will continue to fry the other components, new or otherwise, until the source of the short is discovered and repaired/replaced.
My hopes are this information helps someone because this is a VERY costly repair… I’m lucky to be spending less than $2,000 at this point. If you have a Maxima of this vintage, the SECOND you have an idle problem, get it to the dealer ASAP. You give yourself a chance to save upwards of $1200 in repairs finding this problem quickly.
It is also worth noting you HAVE to take your car to the dealer here… no independent shop (or DYI… unless you are lucky enough to have the Nissan scan tool) will have the capabilities to fully test and replace these components. Replacing the ECU means an idle air relearn on the ECU… and not to mention reprogramming your keys.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/01-i30-stalls-turn-off-when-on-idle-t381947.html
Has anyone had this repair done? Does it have a high success rate, or is it wise to condemn the car and sell it while it still has some value? Can anyone provide some insight there?
Well here’s the latest…. The root cause was not the IACV, as discovered, even though it was bad. After replacing both the IACV and ECU, they both fried again, the root problem being a bad motor mount (electric mount… Had no idea these existed). All these have to be replaced. Thankfully, the dealer is going to help me out with the cost and asked that I pay the cost of the mount, but he is going to eat the cost of the labor to put the mount on and the replacement IACV and ECU (the second time… I wouldn’t pay for this anyway). This will bump the cost up some, but not much. He’s also going to perform the other services on the house.
The takeaway here is if you have a ’00-’01 maxima with an idle problem, get ready to write a check. This is an absolutely awful setup.
Well here’s the latest…. The root cause was not the IACV, as discovered, even though it was bad. After replacing both the IACV and ECU, they both fried again, the root problem being a bad motor mount (electric mount… Had no idea these existed). All these have to be replaced. Thankfully, the dealer is going to help me out with the cost and asked that I pay the cost of the mount, but he is going to eat the cost of the labor to put the mount on and the replacement IACV and ECU (the second time… I wouldn’t pay for this anyway). This will bump the cost up some, but not much. He’s also going to perform the other services on the house.
The takeaway here is if you have a ’00-’01 maxima with an idle problem, get ready to write a check. This is an absolutely awful setup.
Just to update, they were finally able to get a new IACV to them and installed today (weather was a big deal with acquiring parts). After changing it out, it is confirmed the ECM is bad. I appreciate their efforts to save me money (very much), but alas, the car gods are not on my side this time. I have decided to go with an OEM computer because Nissan will warrantee it and the new IACV, and had I decided to go with a used or aftermarket unit, there would be no warrantee for either part.
I am also going to take advantage of the opportunity to get some services done on the car, as well (transmission, oil, tires, brakes, etc.) because they offered me some savings for getting the work done now. The bill will come to a very nice $1500 (would have been just over $1400 with just the IACV and ECM replacement), but with the extra service work included, I end up with a decent deal.
Edited to Add: The “pop” and burning smell was also confirmed to be the ECM since it is housed under the dashboard of the car.
Just to update, they were finally able to get a new IACV to them and installed today (weather was a big deal with acquiring parts). After changing it out, it is confirmed the ECM is bad. I appreciate their efforts to save me money (very much), but alas, the car gods are not on my side this time. I have decided to go with an OEM computer because Nissan will warrantee it and the new IACV, and had I decided to go with a used or aftermarket unit, there would be no warrantee for either part.
I am also going to take advantage of the opportunity to get some services done on the car, as well (transmission, oil, tires, brakes, etc.) because they offered me some savings for getting the work done now. The bill will come to a very nice $1500 (would have been just over $1400 with just the IACV and ECM replacement), but with the extra service work included, I end up with a decent deal.
Edited to Add: The “pop” and burning smell was also confirmed to be the ECM since it is housed under the dashboard of the car.