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As a fun fact, Manufacturers have a specific term for only being able to put this together one way… that term is called “Poka-Yoke…” meaning “error proof,” “mistake proof,” or as we call it where I work, “stupid proof” (I work in manufacturing). It is designed so that it is impossible to put this together the wrong way.
As a fun fact, Manufacturers have a specific term for only being able to put this together one way… that term is called “Poka-Yoke…” meaning “error proof,” “mistake proof,” or as we call it where I work, “stupid proof” (I work in manufacturing). It is designed so that it is impossible to put this together the wrong way.
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I believe the problem is fixed. I took the truck to a shop today and paid $20 to run an injector cleaner through the fuel system. That, coupled with a new filter, did the trick. The engine no longer has these surges anymore at any speed or under any load condition. Looking back, the truck did sit for almost a month with a low tank of gas due to some body work that was being done, so I think that had a lot to do with it.
Just a few quick notes, the issue never seemed to be one of the transmission slipping because even with the surges (which were more fluctuations in fuel delivery, it seemed… it seemed something in the engine was missing), it still continued to pull just fine. As to the shifting issue, the new PCV valve did the trick there (I would assume that relates to the comments about vacuum solenoids in the transmission… if there is a breech in the vacuum system, it has an affect across all systems that run off vacuum). Driving it today after these issues were addressed confirmed this.
The lessons from this confirm what so many here preach, and that is to not simply “throw parts” at a problem. Had I not gone through the checks I did (which I knew to do by watching videos, like ETCG… ), I could have easily spent upwards of $100-$150 on sensors and valves that had nothing at all to do with the real problem, which turned out to be dirty injectors and a simple vacuum leak. Instead, I spent $30 on filters and a professional injector cleaner.
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I believe the problem is fixed. I took the truck to a shop today and paid $20 to run an injector cleaner through the fuel system. That, coupled with a new filter, did the trick. The engine no longer has these surges anymore at any speed or under any load condition. Looking back, the truck did sit for almost a month with a low tank of gas due to some body work that was being done, so I think that had a lot to do with it.
Just a few quick notes, the issue never seemed to be one of the transmission slipping because even with the surges (which were more fluctuations in fuel delivery, it seemed… it seemed something in the engine was missing), it still continued to pull just fine. As to the shifting issue, the new PCV valve did the trick there (I would assume that relates to the comments about vacuum solenoids in the transmission… if there is a breech in the vacuum system, it has an affect across all systems that run off vacuum). Driving it today after these issues were addressed confirmed this.
The lessons from this confirm what so many here preach, and that is to not simply “throw parts” at a problem. Had I not gone through the checks I did (which I knew to do by watching videos, like ETCG… ), I could have easily spent upwards of $100-$150 on sensors and valves that had nothing at all to do with the real problem, which turned out to be dirty injectors and a simple vacuum leak. Instead, I spent $30 on filters and a professional injector cleaner.
Since my last post, I’ve gone ahead and replaced the fuel and air filter, as well as combed over the engine for vacuum leaks and have found none to speak of. The engine notably performs better, but there’s still a slight “surging” when in OD under load (like going up a hill… flat ground is not noticeable). Acceleration is also rather “choppy” and not as linear as it should be. I have also double checked spark plug connections, although, I have not pulled any out yet.
So my question is, what should I suspect? My suspicions are that this problem has been here a while, it’s just never been noticed because the new cap, wires, and plugs I just put on and the fact that alone cleaned up engine performance tremendously. The only other things I might suspect in regards to the fuel system is either the pump (I doubt it’s the pump), the fuel pressure regulator in the throttle body, or the injectors themselves. I could guess it might be spark related, perhaps an intermittent misfire (would that cause the symptoms I’m describing? I would think a misfire would show itself at lower speeds, too) or maybe an ECM issue? I have still supsected EGR, but from what I have read, that really only shows up in a rough idle and not at speeds (would this be correct)? My last suspicion is a TPS, only because engine acceleration is kinda “choppy” and not linear… but I want to rule out other issues first. Would anyone be able to comment and help me rule some of this out right off the bat?
Since my last post, I’ve gone ahead and replaced the fuel and air filter, as well as combed over the engine for vacuum leaks and have found none to speak of. The engine notably performs better, but there’s still a slight “surging” when in OD under load (like going up a hill… flat ground is not noticeable). Acceleration is also rather “choppy” and not as linear as it should be. I have also double checked spark plug connections, although, I have not pulled any out yet.
So my question is, what should I suspect? My suspicions are that this problem has been here a while, it’s just never been noticed because the new cap, wires, and plugs I just put on and the fact that alone cleaned up engine performance tremendously. The only other things I might suspect in regards to the fuel system is either the pump (I doubt it’s the pump), the fuel pressure regulator in the throttle body, or the injectors themselves. I could guess it might be spark related, perhaps an intermittent misfire (would that cause the symptoms I’m describing? I would think a misfire would show itself at lower speeds, too) or maybe an ECM issue? I have still supsected EGR, but from what I have read, that really only shows up in a rough idle and not at speeds (would this be correct)? My last suspicion is a TPS, only because engine acceleration is kinda “choppy” and not linear… but I want to rule out other issues first. Would anyone be able to comment and help me rule some of this out right off the bat?
I really really like the sleeper idea. Like Eric, I’d never see myself driving a V8 Mustang… but a Fairmont with a Mustang drivetrain… YES.
I’d essentially do what Eric is doing… but try to keep true to the 1979 theme. A 302 Windsor with a carburetor coupled to a 4 speed Automatic with OD and a 3.73 rear diff (in researching, I think the Mustangs of that vintage were only available with a 3 speed auto… but I’d really want the car to have overdrive). I do like some of Skitter’s ideas… the brakes and suspension definitely need updating (steel braided brake lines and updated calipers, yes… not sure I’d convert the rear brakes to disc, but I’d make sure they could handle the additional weight) and a 5 lug conversion. The exhaust I’d try to keep quiet and as stock-looking as possible (not stock sounding).
Other than that, I’d leave everything else absolutely the same. Hubcaps, radio, interior… everything the same.
I really really like the sleeper idea. Like Eric, I’d never see myself driving a V8 Mustang… but a Fairmont with a Mustang drivetrain… YES.
I’d essentially do what Eric is doing… but try to keep true to the 1979 theme. A 302 Windsor with a carburetor coupled to a 4 speed Automatic with OD and a 3.73 rear diff (in researching, I think the Mustangs of that vintage were only available with a 3 speed auto… but I’d really want the car to have overdrive). I do like some of Skitter’s ideas… the brakes and suspension definitely need updating (steel braided brake lines and updated calipers, yes… not sure I’d convert the rear brakes to disc, but I’d make sure they could handle the additional weight) and a 5 lug conversion. The exhaust I’d try to keep quiet and as stock-looking as possible (not stock sounding).
Other than that, I’d leave everything else absolutely the same. Hubcaps, radio, interior… everything the same.
In terms of alignment, don’t forget to check the brackets that mount the accessories to the engine block. I had a similar squeak in my ’88 chevy truck… pulleys were all tight and quiet, no play in anything with the belt off… BUT when there was tension on the belt, I discovered there was enough play in the power steering mounting bracket to pull it out of alignment. I pulled the belt off, put a washer behind the loose nut for good measure and snugged it up… the noise went away. Just my 2 cents… Hope you can find it. Squeaky belts are a pain.
In terms of alignment, don’t forget to check the brackets that mount the accessories to the engine block. I had a similar squeak in my ’88 chevy truck… pulleys were all tight and quiet, no play in anything with the belt off… BUT when there was tension on the belt, I discovered there was enough play in the power steering mounting bracket to pull it out of alignment. I pulled the belt off, put a washer behind the loose nut for good measure and snugged it up… the noise went away. Just my 2 cents… Hope you can find it. Squeaky belts are a pain.
Thanks, so much for you guys help. I hate I didn’t get to keep the Nissan, but it worked out. Hopefully this thread will help someone down the road.
Thanks, so much for you guys help. I hate I didn’t get to keep the Nissan, but it worked out. Hopefully this thread will help someone down the road.
Well, I did a fair amount of shopping… I am partial to Honda/Acura because they’ve had a fantastic record with people I’ve known (I used to own one… my family has owned 4… all were absolutely fantastic automobiles)… BUT… I wanted to go the certified Used route and Honda/Acura was just too expensive.
I actually ended up settling on a 2012 Ford Fusion. I have been impressed with what Ford is doing and I drove the Fusion and was VERY impressed. I also qualified for a great APR and warrantee deal. The drivetrain is a Mazda setup and, in my opinion, Mazda is one of the most underrated manufacturers out there, so I have faith it will be a solid car.
Well, I did a fair amount of shopping… I am partial to Honda/Acura because they’ve had a fantastic record with people I’ve known (I used to own one… my family has owned 4… all were absolutely fantastic automobiles)… BUT… I wanted to go the certified Used route and Honda/Acura was just too expensive.
I actually ended up settling on a 2012 Ford Fusion. I have been impressed with what Ford is doing and I drove the Fusion and was VERY impressed. I also qualified for a great APR and warrantee deal. The drivetrain is a Mazda setup and, in my opinion, Mazda is one of the most underrated manufacturers out there, so I have faith it will be a solid car.
[quote=”NissanMaxx” post=91172]I really don’t like saying stuff like this considering I’m a Nissan guy. But you should honestly sell the car. Once you have problems like this with a Nissan they will not go away. That’s what I would recommend, but it’s up too you.[/quote]
I did end up selling the car. Like you said, by the time I paid the money to get the car running right again, it may not be the last electrical problem the car has and the car just wasn’t worth it to me. In my mind, I attribute most of the blame to the design team that designed the circuit… It’s just a horrible horrible design.
I did end up getting what I wanted to out of it, so that’s a win.
Thank so much for everyone’s input and help. It’s awesome there’s a place like this to find valuable information to help make decisions.