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Thanks for the reply. Thats the same procedure I was using. I ended up having to pull the engine again for the 2nd time in 2 days because the head gasket is leaking, the front crank seal is leaking as well as the rear main seal. I installed the seals but the head gasket I did not. I have to take the engine down to the place I bought it from for them to warranty the reapir. Talk about a pain in the ass.
I re-checked my cam timing with the engine out and its spot on. Im not sure what else to do as far as the timing but I will have to figure that out after the leaks are fixed.
Thanks for the reply. Thats the same procedure I was using. I ended up having to pull the engine again for the 2nd time in 2 days because the head gasket is leaking, the front crank seal is leaking as well as the rear main seal. I installed the seals but the head gasket I did not. I have to take the engine down to the place I bought it from for them to warranty the reapir. Talk about a pain in the ass.
I re-checked my cam timing with the engine out and its spot on. Im not sure what else to do as far as the timing but I will have to figure that out after the leaks are fixed.
I think narrowing it down via a heavier oil would be a great place to start, then you will know whether its valve train or timing chain. Good luck!
I think narrowing it down via a heavier oil would be a great place to start, then you will know whether its valve train or timing chain. Good luck!
Can you post a pic of your exhaust valve springs that are loose? Are the keepers intact? How do the rocker arm contact points look?
Its hard to tell what the white stuff is next to the valves. You dont have any abnormal coolant loss do ya? Any rough running? It may be a good idea to do a cylinder leakage test on that cylinder and check for any bubbles in that area. Also pressurize the cooling system and make the same checks
Can you post a pic of your exhaust valve springs that are loose? Are the keepers intact? How do the rocker arm contact points look?
Its hard to tell what the white stuff is next to the valves. You dont have any abnormal coolant loss do ya? Any rough running? It may be a good idea to do a cylinder leakage test on that cylinder and check for any bubbles in that area. Also pressurize the cooling system and make the same checks
Well at least you now know your tbelt is on right 🙂
The a pipe inner pipe rattle is common on the b series motors, it could be the issue on yours as well. Try to have someone snap the throttle for ya when your underneath the car so you can try to listen closely. The b series factory manifold/a pipes are really pricey and we usually just sell a quality, aftermarket header to install. They are typically a lot cheaper
Well at least you now know your tbelt is on right 🙂
The a pipe inner pipe rattle is common on the b series motors, it could be the issue on yours as well. Try to have someone snap the throttle for ya when your underneath the car so you can try to listen closely. The b series factory manifold/a pipes are really pricey and we usually just sell a quality, aftermarket header to install. They are typically a lot cheaper
I have never seen an adjustment for hydraulic lifters, thats the reason to have them in the first place. Before you dig too deep, change the oil to the heavier viscosity and see if the noise goes away. Or substitube 1 quart of ATF when you change the oil to help quiet down the lifters.
Why work harder than you have to????
I have never seen an adjustment for hydraulic lifters, thats the reason to have them in the first place. Before you dig too deep, change the oil to the heavier viscosity and see if the noise goes away. Or substitube 1 quart of ATF when you change the oil to help quiet down the lifters.
Why work harder than you have to????
Regardless of whats posted on that forum,green coolant wont hurt your engine. Your about due for a coolant change anyways. Draina it out and put in the good Honda stuff and be done with it.
Regardless of whats posted on that forum,green coolant wont hurt your engine. Your about due for a coolant change anyways. Draina it out and put in the good Honda stuff and be done with it.
If the clutch/inner pulley cant turn then the compressor is seized. I have seen this several times on the RL.
EGR: You dont have to remove the entire intake manifold. All you need to do is remove the EGR pipe that connects the egr valve to the manifold, then using drill bits, your hands and a flexible air nozzle to clean out the EGR port. You should be able to get a 3/8 drill bit through the hole. Start small and work your way up. Its not hard.
Coolant: In 2011 Hondas coolant was blue, they started using blue in 05 or 06. Green and blue can be mixed with no issues.
Fuel: There has been talk between me and several other techs of crappy fuel leading to EGR desposits. I would personall clean the port and run quality fuel. IE, chevron, shell and or 76