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The popping noise when trying to start is a backfire in the exhaust system. We dropped the a pipe from the header pipe and blue flame shoots out when starting. Tried advancing the distributor all the way and still no go. Hooked up a timing light to the #1 spark plug wire and we get no pulse when trying to start. I verified a good strong spark at the plug. Any other ideas?
The popping noise when trying to start is a backfire in the exhaust system. We dropped the a pipe from the header pipe and blue flame shoots out when starting. Tried advancing the distributor all the way and still no go. Hooked up a timing light to the #1 spark plug wire and we get no pulse when trying to start. I verified a good strong spark at the plug. Any other ideas?
Is there a “shift release” cover near the shifter? Its usually a cover you pry up then there is a tab underneath you push down with the key or screwdriver to shift without any power. Other wise you will need to manually shift via the shift cable on the trans end.
I was swamped at work and didnt remember to check on your manifold but only remove it if you have to. There should be some coolant hoses going from the manifold to the coolant crossover pipe that connects the tstat to the water pump. Just be careful and take your time. In my experience its easier to remove heads with the manifolds connected because it gives you something else to grab onto 🙂
Is there a “shift release” cover near the shifter? Its usually a cover you pry up then there is a tab underneath you push down with the key or screwdriver to shift without any power. Other wise you will need to manually shift via the shift cable on the trans end.
I was swamped at work and didnt remember to check on your manifold but only remove it if you have to. There should be some coolant hoses going from the manifold to the coolant crossover pipe that connects the tstat to the water pump. Just be careful and take your time. In my experience its easier to remove heads with the manifolds connected because it gives you something else to grab onto 🙂
Its more than likely got bent valves, possibly more than one. I would remove the head and remove the rocker shafts to close all the valves. Squirt water into each port and watch for drips out of the valves. It may be a better idea to take the head to a machine shop and have them rebuild it.
As far as removal, I usually try to leave the manifold attached if possible. Lemme check the service procedure in the morning and see if they mention removal.
Its more than likely got bent valves, possibly more than one. I would remove the head and remove the rocker shafts to close all the valves. Squirt water into each port and watch for drips out of the valves. It may be a better idea to take the head to a machine shop and have them rebuild it.
As far as removal, I usually try to leave the manifold attached if possible. Lemme check the service procedure in the morning and see if they mention removal.
A good way to bleed an abs system is to take it for a test drive (if safely possible), find a gravel parking lot and mash on the brakes. The abs pump will cycle and bleed any air out of the modulator.
What probably happend during your bleeding procedure was pushing the brake pedal down past its normal stroke. Sometimes deposits build up in your master cylinder bore and when the piston travels past its normal stroke these deposits will damage the seal around the master cylinder pushrod piston. The only solution here is to rebuild or more preferably replace the master cylinder. Good luck
A good way to bleed an abs system is to take it for a test drive (if safely possible), find a gravel parking lot and mash on the brakes. The abs pump will cycle and bleed any air out of the modulator.
What probably happend during your bleeding procedure was pushing the brake pedal down past its normal stroke. Sometimes deposits build up in your master cylinder bore and when the piston travels past its normal stroke these deposits will damage the seal around the master cylinder pushrod piston. The only solution here is to rebuild or more preferably replace the master cylinder. Good luck
your downstream 02 is the one that monitors the cat. The upstream adjusts the fuel mixture. Chances are pretty good that a crappy aftermarket cat was installed. Check the inlet and outlet temps as shown in erics videos and report back
your downstream 02 is the one that monitors the cat. The upstream adjusts the fuel mixture. Chances are pretty good that a crappy aftermarket cat was installed. Check the inlet and outlet temps as shown in erics videos and report back
So that is a CRV motor right? What problem are you having other than that? Those ports are for the idle air control circuit. Air has to get past the throttle plate at idle via those holes. I believe only one should have vacuum at hot idle.
So that is a CRV motor right? What problem are you having other than that? Those ports are for the idle air control circuit. Air has to get past the throttle plate at idle via those holes. I believe only one should have vacuum at hot idle.
Where exactly on the rotors are they cracked?
I would reccomend replacing them with OE rotors and taking care to clean the mating surface on the hub of any rust or corrosion.
Make sure to torque your lug nuts too! (80 ft lbs)
Where exactly on the rotors are they cracked?
I would reccomend replacing them with OE rotors and taking care to clean the mating surface on the hub of any rust or corrosion.
Make sure to torque your lug nuts too! (80 ft lbs)