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How far was the timing off? (if it was?)
Is the bolt easily accessable? Any portion of it sticking out? If there is then you can try to “walk it out” with a punch or small pair of vice grips. If its submerged into the block/head then you will need some sort of extraction tool. If its cross threaded you may not be able to get it out without drilling.
If the key light is flashing continuously with the key in the on position then the immobilizer is not allowing the engine to run but the symptoms your describing dont sound like thats an issue.
How far was the timing off? (if it was?)
Is the bolt easily accessable? Any portion of it sticking out? If there is then you can try to “walk it out” with a punch or small pair of vice grips. If its submerged into the block/head then you will need some sort of extraction tool. If its cross threaded you may not be able to get it out without drilling.
If the key light is flashing continuously with the key in the on position then the immobilizer is not allowing the engine to run but the symptoms your describing dont sound like thats an issue.
+1 on a power balance test and swapping the coils.
Does it have a “dead miss” at idle? A dead miss basically means the cylinder is not firing and all and your engine will have a noticable shake and stumble on acceleration.
Your piston rings dont completely seal the cylinder so a bit of blow by into the crankcase (heard through the oil fill cap) doesnt necessarily mean your piston rings are shot. With a misfire diag, ya gotta start with the easiest stuff first
It sounds like your car uses a waste spark style setup, meaning one coil fires 2 cylinders.
+1 on a power balance test and swapping the coils.
Does it have a “dead miss” at idle? A dead miss basically means the cylinder is not firing and all and your engine will have a noticable shake and stumble on acceleration.
Your piston rings dont completely seal the cylinder so a bit of blow by into the crankcase (heard through the oil fill cap) doesnt necessarily mean your piston rings are shot. With a misfire diag, ya gotta start with the easiest stuff first
It sounds like your car uses a waste spark style setup, meaning one coil fires 2 cylinders.
This may be a dumb question but did ya clear the code after you were done or pull the ECM backup fuse?
This may be a dumb question but did ya clear the code after you were done or pull the ECM backup fuse?
Your top pulley there should connect to your belt tensioner. Can you get a long 14mm box end wrench on there to see if it moves one way or the other? I have never heard of a honda with a “stretch on” type belt system
Your top pulley there should connect to your belt tensioner. Can you get a long 14mm box end wrench on there to see if it moves one way or the other? I have never heard of a honda with a “stretch on” type belt system
Your car being a 94 doesnt monitor EGR flow, just the lift of the valve. Your car has a vacuum controlled EGR valve. You could have a problem with the solenoid, vacuum line or the actual valve. Typically with a stuck open EGR valve(big vacuum leak) your car would run very poorly all the time.
Your car uses a MAP sensor to detect manifold pressure, this is the first point for fuel metering. Again with a failing MAP sensor your car would probably run like crap. If you were to backprobe your MAP sensor to read its voltage, it should read under 1.0v, usually .8-.9v at hot idle with all loads off. If if were higher or lower that could indicate internal engine problems or mechanical timing being off.
The second point for fuel metering is your primary 02 sensor. You said your car has an aftermarket down pipe right? I remember an ETCG video where eric had an aftermarket pipe where the 02 didnt sit far enough into the exhaust stream to read correctly. Did you replace your 02 sensor with a factory unit? I would stick with OEM or a Denso product myself.
Your plugs are definately on the dark side but I have seen far worse. Start with the cap and rotor as those are the cheapest but we may have another issue going on here. My accord is similar vintage and i get between 29-32mpg on the highway so yours is definately on the lower range
Your car being a 94 doesnt monitor EGR flow, just the lift of the valve. Your car has a vacuum controlled EGR valve. You could have a problem with the solenoid, vacuum line or the actual valve. Typically with a stuck open EGR valve(big vacuum leak) your car would run very poorly all the time.
Your car uses a MAP sensor to detect manifold pressure, this is the first point for fuel metering. Again with a failing MAP sensor your car would probably run like crap. If you were to backprobe your MAP sensor to read its voltage, it should read under 1.0v, usually .8-.9v at hot idle with all loads off. If if were higher or lower that could indicate internal engine problems or mechanical timing being off.
The second point for fuel metering is your primary 02 sensor. You said your car has an aftermarket down pipe right? I remember an ETCG video where eric had an aftermarket pipe where the 02 didnt sit far enough into the exhaust stream to read correctly. Did you replace your 02 sensor with a factory unit? I would stick with OEM or a Denso product myself.
Your plugs are definately on the dark side but I have seen far worse. Start with the cap and rotor as those are the cheapest but we may have another issue going on here. My accord is similar vintage and i get between 29-32mpg on the highway so yours is definately on the lower range
They will run until they seize, probably not your case. Fill er up with oil and put a new filter on.
Does the key light flash with the key turned to the on position?
They will run until they seize, probably not your case. Fill er up with oil and put a new filter on.
Does the key light flash with the key turned to the on position?
Did you properly time the engine??? The cam pulley has 2 hash marks that line up with the surface of the head and the crank has a white mark and a pointer to line up. Where does the oil seem to be coming from? Did you check the headgasket against the original before you slapped it on? There is lots to screw up on a headgasket job so ya gotta start from the basics. All grounds and connections tight?
Did you properly time the engine??? The cam pulley has 2 hash marks that line up with the surface of the head and the crank has a white mark and a pointer to line up. Where does the oil seem to be coming from? Did you check the headgasket against the original before you slapped it on? There is lots to screw up on a headgasket job so ya gotta start from the basics. All grounds and connections tight?
Sounds like maybe a sway bar link or bushing may be the cause. With the tires off the ground check the balljoints while your there too, ya never know. Eric has several videos on finding suspension noises, check em out!!
http://ericthecarguy.com/videos/7-videos/26-suspension-and-steering?videoid=GYosZGby0-I
http://ericthecarguy.com/videos/7-videos/26-suspension-and-steering?videoid=scFbb43fwqk