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Is it an egr flow code? If so the egr port for that cylinder may be plugged. You may have high EGT temps in that cylinder which could burn the valve. Did you adjust the valves to spec after the head job?
Is it an egr flow code? If so the egr port for that cylinder may be plugged. You may have high EGT temps in that cylinder which could burn the valve. Did you adjust the valves to spec after the head job?
It might be tricky but you can give it a try. With the belt on the car you can remove the bolt that holds the clutch to the pulley and go from there. Snap rings hold the pulley to the compressor which would be tricky without at least removing the bolts for the compressor to gain some work room
It might be tricky but you can give it a try. With the belt on the car you can remove the bolt that holds the clutch to the pulley and go from there. Snap rings hold the pulley to the compressor which would be tricky without at least removing the bolts for the compressor to gain some work room
You dont need to flush the system. Once the system is recovered, remove both lines from the compressor and swap with a q tip. If there is black, metal debris in the suction line then the whole system is contaminated and will need to be flushed really well or replaced entirely.
Your car has 2 expansion valves. One on the high side hose going to the evaporator and one at the evaporator in the dash. Those evaporators are relatively easy to remove. You need to remove the blower unit then the evaporator will be right in your face. The only way to know if that needs to be replaced will be by checking the pressures once the compressor is replaced.
You dont need to flush the system. Once the system is recovered, remove both lines from the compressor and swap with a q tip. If there is black, metal debris in the suction line then the whole system is contaminated and will need to be flushed really well or replaced entirely.
Your car has 2 expansion valves. One on the high side hose going to the evaporator and one at the evaporator in the dash. Those evaporators are relatively easy to remove. You need to remove the blower unit then the evaporator will be right in your face. The only way to know if that needs to be replaced will be by checking the pressures once the compressor is replaced.
the rear tranny mounts break on those all the time. I would be more suspect of that one than the cracked front ones.
Get under there and look up at the rear of the trans, use a pry bar and pry side to side on the trans against the body, there should be very little movement.
Whens your last tune up?
the rear tranny mounts break on those all the time. I would be more suspect of that one than the cracked front ones.
Get under there and look up at the rear of the trans, use a pry bar and pry side to side on the trans against the body, there should be very little movement.
Whens your last tune up?
Possible exhaust leak or lifter making noise.
Have a friend power brake it for you while you listen and try to pinpoint the noise
Possible exhaust leak or lifter making noise.
Have a friend power brake it for you while you listen and try to pinpoint the noise
Agreed with fitone. Out of the hundreds of those timing belts I have done on those motors not one has ever jumped time with the engine off. Just line it up perfectly and you will be fine.
The only special tool you will need is to hold the crank from moving when removing and reinstalling the crank pulley bolt. You can rent these at most auto parts stores.
The only time I have ever seen a cam or crank seal leak is from some jackass installing them incorrectly.
When you get the covers torn off check right under the water pump for an oil leak. We have been resealing a lot of oil pump housings lately for this concern. They will puke oil out the top o ring on the pump and leak down either side of the pump.
Agreed with fitone. Out of the hundreds of those timing belts I have done on those motors not one has ever jumped time with the engine off. Just line it up perfectly and you will be fine.
The only special tool you will need is to hold the crank from moving when removing and reinstalling the crank pulley bolt. You can rent these at most auto parts stores.
The only time I have ever seen a cam or crank seal leak is from some jackass installing them incorrectly.
When you get the covers torn off check right under the water pump for an oil leak. We have been resealing a lot of oil pump housings lately for this concern. They will puke oil out the top o ring on the pump and leak down either side of the pump.
the fix was a distributor. My guess is that the ckp/cyp sensor had failed and was signalling for spark at the wrong time.
the fix was a distributor. My guess is that the ckp/cyp sensor had failed and was signalling for spark at the wrong time.
those compressors are one of the easiest ones to remove. It drops right out the bottom. I would reccomend having someone recover the system professionally and check for debris is the lines, this will tell you if your compressor failed internally or if the clutch burned up. In my experience at the dealership, 99% of the time the compressor has failed internally.