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if it was leaking you would smell a really funky sweet smell when the heaters on or even see a “fog” come out of the vents. does the coolant look good? (no chunkies, rust, floaties). if its gross i would flush it. i dont know for sure if the 3000gt has a bleeder on it. if it does it would probably be on or around the thermostat housing.
if it was leaking you would smell a really funky sweet smell when the heaters on or even see a “fog” come out of the vents. does the coolant look good? (no chunkies, rust, floaties). if its gross i would flush it. i dont know for sure if the 3000gt has a bleeder on it. if it does it would probably be on or around the thermostat housing.
from the sounds of it and how much waters coming out, you may have a blown head gasket. have you done a compression test yet? if not id do so first before moving any further. i would check around where the head meets the block and see if its leaking out the sides of the head. check the weep hole on the water pump (usually behind the pulley next to the front bearing of the pump).
from the sounds of it and how much waters coming out, you may have a blown head gasket. have you done a compression test yet? if not id do so first before moving any further. i would check around where the head meets the block and see if its leaking out the sides of the head. check the weep hole on the water pump (usually behind the pulley next to the front bearing of the pump).
sound like your heater core is dieing. when was the last time you had the cooling system flushed? can you smell a burnt sugar smell coming from the vents? if not i would suggest a “backflush” but there are alot of people that wouldnt recommend it as it can cause more damage. if you feel confident though you can try it.
you need a drain pan, pliers, and a garden hose hooked up to the house.
let the car cool down (obviously)
take your heater core hoses off making sure you know which goes where.
drain your heater core until its a small trickle.
put the hose on one of the nipples to the heatercore.
using LOW pressure let the water run through the heater core until no more sediment is coming out.
dont crank the water on, you can rupture the heater core. replace hoses afterward and check fluid levels after a run.now this could fix it or if the heater core is too far gone, it can make it worse.
sound like your heater core is dieing. when was the last time you had the cooling system flushed? can you smell a burnt sugar smell coming from the vents? if not i would suggest a “backflush” but there are alot of people that wouldnt recommend it as it can cause more damage. if you feel confident though you can try it.
you need a drain pan, pliers, and a garden hose hooked up to the house.
let the car cool down (obviously)
take your heater core hoses off making sure you know which goes where.
drain your heater core until its a small trickle.
put the hose on one of the nipples to the heatercore.
using LOW pressure let the water run through the heater core until no more sediment is coming out.
dont crank the water on, you can rupture the heater core. replace hoses afterward and check fluid levels after a run.now this could fix it or if the heater core is too far gone, it can make it worse.
theres one thing that comes to mind that ive done once or twice. it involves a socket and a tig welder. you want a socket that will fit just to where the sides are of the nut not the top. put a few tacks between the nut and the socket and it should come right off. its kinda hard to do since you dont have much space to work with so you will need alot of patience. youll be down a lug nut and a socket, but youll get it off without killin your rim. another is to try and take the dust guard off the brakes and grind the stud off from the back of the hub. either way, this is quite a pickle you got yourself into!
theres one thing that comes to mind that ive done once or twice. it involves a socket and a tig welder. you want a socket that will fit just to where the sides are of the nut not the top. put a few tacks between the nut and the socket and it should come right off. its kinda hard to do since you dont have much space to work with so you will need alot of patience. youll be down a lug nut and a socket, but youll get it off without killin your rim. another is to try and take the dust guard off the brakes and grind the stud off from the back of the hub. either way, this is quite a pickle you got yourself into!
1994 chevy beretta Z26.I thought it was an awesome car. got it for $950. bought it with a slight valve tick. ended up replacing valve seats (3.4s are notorious for slipping valve seats i was told), intake valves, all the rods and the oil pump. after driving it flawless for about 500 miles the rocker studs started backing out. replaced those with a heavy duty stud. after another 1000+ miles the CAT clogged up. at this point, said screw it and just poked a hole through the middle of it. another 200 or so miles after that the tranny gave out. so many trips to the machine shop. so many more trips to the parts store. an so much time wasted in that POS. i learned my lesson not to trust GM products between 81 and 98. I just have no luck with them.
1994 chevy beretta Z26.I thought it was an awesome car. got it for $950. bought it with a slight valve tick. ended up replacing valve seats (3.4s are notorious for slipping valve seats i was told), intake valves, all the rods and the oil pump. after driving it flawless for about 500 miles the rocker studs started backing out. replaced those with a heavy duty stud. after another 1000+ miles the CAT clogged up. at this point, said screw it and just poked a hole through the middle of it. another 200 or so miles after that the tranny gave out. so many trips to the machine shop. so many more trips to the parts store. an so much time wasted in that POS. i learned my lesson not to trust GM products between 81 and 98. I just have no luck with them.