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I watched an accord steering rack replacement by Bushougoma. My car is a ’96 and his video is for ’94-’97. The high and low pressure lines are very difficult to get to. I was finally able to get a flare wrench on the high pressure line and after multiple attempts with various weapons of choice I finally found what worked for me. It a short galvanized pipe that I was able to get into that hole under the all the wires, hoses, etc. It slipped over the handle of the flare wrench and gave me just the leverage I needed to pop the nut loose. The return line was a bit easier. I was able to sneak the flare wrench over the nut and had enough room to pull. That one popped a little easier.
I hope this helps someone else. Now, on to the rest of the rack removal and replacement.
Well Transman304, if you read this I wanted to thank you again. I installed the rear main seal and have everything put back together. After 80 miles at various speeds, etc. everything in bone dry. I am not excited to do a rear main seal again in the near future though. I totally understand the labor charge now to replace that $20 seal. What an adventure. Glad I did it though. Thanks again for your help.
Thanks again for your help. I got all 15 bolts tightened back up and no leaks. So I will get the right bolts out now. Thanks again.
So I will go back and put the bolts back into the transmission case. At least it sounds like I haven’t gone too far yet.
That is exactly what I am worried about. Have I blown it already? The case started to leak with all the bolts I have removed so far.
I had a similar issue once. It was frustrating. I finally went to Harbor Freight with a 20% coupon and bought a digital inspection camera. I think it cost about $65. It took a few minutes to get used to but the camera has a light and it was small enough for me to get in and find the loose piece of plastic that I needed to get out. Here’s a link………. good luck http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-61839.html
Just received the used ebay fuel gauge I ordered last week. I hooked it up and it measures 3/4 of a tank which is exactly what the ohm meter measurement said it should read given the specs for the sending unit and the readings I took last weekend. Sweet success!!!!!!!!!
Thanks again to everyone who commented and gave a helping hand.
One other thing………..with a wire tone generator I traced the sending unit wire to the cluster harness. I back probed the connector and get the same type of ohm reading (18.3) that I get at the sending unit. So I am pretty comfortable with the wiring from the harness to the sending unit. I’ve tested the ground wire and it toned all the way back to the cluster as well. So I’m pretty sure the fuel gauge is faulty. I’d just like to know how to do a test on it.
When all unplugged the gauge does not go to empty. It stays on full.
So I have the gauge cluster out. I have ignition, ground, and fuel connections on the back of the gauge. They way these Accords work is they fuel gauge never goes to empty when you shut off the car. It stays at whatever level the gas gauge was at when you shut the car off. The only way it would drop to empty is if you actually had no fuel in the tank.
So can I use a 6 volt camping light battery as my power source to test it with a 47 ohm resistor? That should give me 1/2 a tank ready per the manual. So can anyone tell me how to properly set up the test?
I tried the block of wood at many different angles with no luck. I drowned that shaft with penetrating oil, still no luck. I knew it had to come off, so finally I took a long crow bar and slid it under an indentation in the engine and the gear. Then I started giving it very gentle pops over and over. I never really pried. Finally the gear came flying off and I was able to finish replacing the seal and complete the timing belt replacement.
I think my big problem is that whoever did the job before me the last time went without the rubber gasket on the timing cover. This creates more of a gap at the bottom of the cover and allowed for some slight surface rust that made my life miserable for awhile. However I put a new seal on the timing cover and buttoned it all up. The next person will not have the same problem.
Purchased a Gates belt tensioner and pulley. I had to remove two screws from the coil bracket to get to the nut and loosen the assembly. Of course I had removed the belt already. Pulled the old one off, tightented the new one and reattached the coil bracket. Quite a difference with the SPRING in this new tensioner. Put the belt back on and started the truck. Life is good and it sure was nice to do a quick 10 minute job. This was quite a bit easier than the water pump.
Thanks to all for you advice