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it’s a pretty good stuff, very durable and easy to touch up
i would go buy a special tool for specific job. putting tonnes of money in a wrench and regular sockets is not advisable for now and for less $100 i could buy a quality wrench which is maximum wrench set.
if you are a professional or even a weekend warrior, this tool is very help full in tight places but if you buy the cheap swivel sockets the wall sockets is too thick to fit in some places. snap on has good set and proto.
yes, battery can be serviced. but there will be a few test needs to be done. which is determining the state of charge and load check for each cell without 0.050 difference on the hydrometer. if the state charge and load check fail, the battery is scrap. WARNING i dont suggest to serviced your battery, because it could result to thermal runway and worst explosion
it depends on the type of bolt and nut, because there’s a bolt and nut is designed to self lock or by using lock wire, cotter pin etc. basically if the part is subjected to a centrifugal force or any force that the fastener possibly loosen and there’s no way that you can safety that fastener
there’s not much difference, except if you want change your manifold and exhaust system and it will run more smoother and few HP or you could remove the snorkel in your car but the down side is water 🙂 so the best fix is stay at factory style filter and inspect,clean or replace the filter more often.
there’s not much difference, except if you want change your manifold and exhaust system and it will run more smoother and few HP or you could remove the snorkel in your car but the down side is water 🙂 so the best fix is stay at factory style filter and inspect,clean or replace the filter more often.
its a great tool to have, it will save you a lot of time doing troubleshooting as long as you know the basics it wont hurt anything!
mixing oil? why not as long as they are the same manufacturers/brand or mil-specs, basically your just change the viscosity of the oil! but when you mix oils with different manufacturers/brand or mil-specs you will risk your engine! because different manufactures use different additives and etc. even though they have the same mil-specs
i would do differential compression test to pin point the problem! because the leak might be in the rings or valve seats.. theres no point cleaning the gunk if you still have leaks and in just 1000 to 2000 miles it will do the same thing
did you check or see if the distributor rotor is turning? when you crank the engine S:)
did you try finding a good ground and feed it to the ground side of the bulb? and test it.. because theres no point for rewiring if you prove it the wire (resistance check) is good.
it sounds like you need a valve timing! but again as the other guy said, do the basics diagnosing and work your way up.
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