[Richard]

End of Day Update:

Spoke to my mechanic, who’s willing to give me advice. His advice – like yours – bleed the brakes. Some air got in there. Probably in step 11 like was pointed out upthread (thanks!).

So my friend and I bled the brakes LR-RF-RR-LF and we got a good bit of air from the RR, lending credence to the step 11 theory. Test drive showed improved, but not ideal, pedal response. And I could feel the rear brakes operating.

In about a month, my friend will help me replace the calipers, since I’ve bought them and you can easily find reports in a google search about issues with Accord and CRV rear brakes in recent model years, that Honda is deflecting. So prudence dictates replacing the calipers while the pads are still pretty new.

You guys have been awesome, thanks to all!

[Richard]

End of Day Update:

Spoke to my mechanic, who’s willing to give me advice. His advice – like yours – bleed the brakes. Some air got in there. Probably in step 11 like was pointed out upthread (thanks!).

So my friend and I bled the brakes LR-RF-RR-LF and we got a good bit of air from the RR, lending credence to the step 11 theory. Test drive showed improved, but not ideal, pedal response. And I could feel the rear brakes operating.

In about a month, my friend will help me replace the calipers, since I’ve bought them and you can easily find reports in a google search about issues with Accord and CRV rear brakes in recent model years, that Honda is deflecting. So prudence dictates replacing the calipers while the pads are still pretty new.

You guys have been awesome, thanks to all!

[Richard]

Alright. So here’s a brief history of my situation.

1. This is a 2012 Accord SE, with 45,xxx miles on it. It’s 21 months old.
2. Last few weeks, we were hearing a high-pitched whine noise from driver-rear wheel on reverse, and when braking in reverse. No noise forward. Sounded to me like a pad issue or something loose that was rubbing or vibrating.
3. Yesterday removed driver-rear wheel, and the caliper, and found the inner pad was down to the wear indicator, and the outer pad was better, but still more worn than I expected for a rear pad of that age.
4. Figured I’d probably change pads, but found I couldn’t get the caliper piston back into the caliper, by squeezing with a C-clamp. Was able to get the piston turned, with some difficulty, using a screwdriver blade across the slots. Turned OUT, though, not back into the caliper. In fact, got it out to the point where it was loose in its boot.
5. Attempted to screw it back in, or push it – and couldn’t on either count.
6. Assuming caliper was stuck, and being prudent about the other (untested) caliper, took other vehicle and bought two new calipers, a set of pads, a gallon of brake fluid, expecting to change the calipers. Left all this overnight.
7. Today, after watching Eric’s youtube video on the ’97 Subaru, decided to give it a go.
8. Came here to ask my question about how to properly move the piston. Bought a cube and silicon lube.
9. Discovered that using the cube, it was pretty easy to screw back the piston, all the way into the caliper. So figured maybe it wasn’t bad after all. Put on new pads, put back the old caliper with newly lubricated bolts (Silicon lube).
10. Removed other wheel, and its caliper. COULD NOT MOVE THE PISTON EITHER WAY with the cube.
11. Actuated brake pedal a couple times. Piston came out from the caliper further. NOW I was able to screw the passenger-side piston back into the the caliper. Changed pads, replaced caliper with lubricated bolts.
12. Put both wheels back on, put car on the floor.
13. Started engine, pushed pedal, seemed to build pressure.
14. Test drove in neighborhood street. Found that pedal would build, then lose pressure. Had to pump pedal to build pressure. Car will stop but pedal will lose pressure. No idiot lights are on.
15. With car back in garage, engine running, spent several minutes pushing brake pedal, with no change in behavior. It loses pressure.
16. There is no leaking fluid from the rear wheels at all. I earlier had added about 2-3 ounces of fluid to the master cylinder, which anyway was well above the MIN mark. Secured its cap.

Why am I losing pressure if there is no fluid leak? I don’t notice any fluid leaks at the master cylinder, either. The car did not lose brake pressure until I did all this, it just made a noise. With the engine off, it does not lose any pressure.

[Richard]

Alright. So here’s a brief history of my situation.

1. This is a 2012 Accord SE, with 45,xxx miles on it. It’s 21 months old.
2. Last few weeks, we were hearing a high-pitched whine noise from driver-rear wheel on reverse, and when braking in reverse. No noise forward. Sounded to me like a pad issue or something loose that was rubbing or vibrating.
3. Yesterday removed driver-rear wheel, and the caliper, and found the inner pad was down to the wear indicator, and the outer pad was better, but still more worn than I expected for a rear pad of that age.
4. Figured I’d probably change pads, but found I couldn’t get the caliper piston back into the caliper, by squeezing with a C-clamp. Was able to get the piston turned, with some difficulty, using a screwdriver blade across the slots. Turned OUT, though, not back into the caliper. In fact, got it out to the point where it was loose in its boot.
5. Attempted to screw it back in, or push it – and couldn’t on either count.
6. Assuming caliper was stuck, and being prudent about the other (untested) caliper, took other vehicle and bought two new calipers, a set of pads, a gallon of brake fluid, expecting to change the calipers. Left all this overnight.
7. Today, after watching Eric’s youtube video on the ’97 Subaru, decided to give it a go.
8. Came here to ask my question about how to properly move the piston. Bought a cube and silicon lube.
9. Discovered that using the cube, it was pretty easy to screw back the piston, all the way into the caliper. So figured maybe it wasn’t bad after all. Put on new pads, put back the old caliper with newly lubricated bolts (Silicon lube).
10. Removed other wheel, and its caliper. COULD NOT MOVE THE PISTON EITHER WAY with the cube.
11. Actuated brake pedal a couple times. Piston came out from the caliper further. NOW I was able to screw the passenger-side piston back into the the caliper. Changed pads, replaced caliper with lubricated bolts.
12. Put both wheels back on, put car on the floor.
13. Started engine, pushed pedal, seemed to build pressure.
14. Test drove in neighborhood street. Found that pedal would build, then lose pressure. Had to pump pedal to build pressure. Car will stop but pedal will lose pressure. No idiot lights are on.
15. With car back in garage, engine running, spent several minutes pushing brake pedal, with no change in behavior. It loses pressure.
16. There is no leaking fluid from the rear wheels at all. I earlier had added about 2-3 ounces of fluid to the master cylinder, which anyway was well above the MIN mark. Secured its cap.

Why am I losing pressure if there is no fluid leak? I don’t notice any fluid leaks at the master cylinder, either. The car did not lose brake pressure until I did all this, it just made a noise. With the engine off, it does not lose any pressure.

[Richard]

One more question to anyone — where/how does one lubricate the caliper bolt holes (with the rubber seals around them)? It’s not obvious to me. Do you just lube the bolt and that takes care of it? Or do you need some lube inside the hole?

The old caliper is not stuck. Using the Cube, I could ratchet that thing right back inside. But the top caliper bolt hole doesn’t spring very much. The bottom one is better, more springy.

Thanks!

[Richard]

One more question to anyone — where/how does one lubricate the caliper bolt holes (with the rubber seals around them)? It’s not obvious to me. Do you just lube the bolt and that takes care of it? Or do you need some lube inside the hole?

The old caliper is not stuck. Using the Cube, I could ratchet that thing right back inside. But the top caliper bolt hole doesn’t spring very much. The bottom one is better, more springy.

Thanks!

[Richard]

Off to get “the Cube” and some silicon. Can’t find it. Have the anti squeal packets.

Thanks for your help!

[Richard]

Off to get “the Cube” and some silicon. Can’t find it. Have the anti squeal packets.

Thanks for your help!

[Richard]

Thanks, both of you, didn’t know the golden rule! If I were to cheat, and try to use something like a screwdriver blade across the piston head, how difficult should it be to turn the piston back into the caliper? About the same resistance as pushing in a front caliper piston?

[Richard]

Thanks, both of you, didn’t know the golden rule! If I were to cheat, and try to use something like a screwdriver blade across the piston head, how difficult should it be to turn the piston back into the caliper? About the same resistance as pushing in a front caliper piston?

[Author]

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