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It sounds like you have decided on the course you are going to take.
The reason for timing belts or chains is moving off topic.
the fact that car A does 60000 and 25 years without a replacement does not mean that car B will do likewise.
the running costs of a vehicle should be taken into consideration when buying it and changing the belt kit now is preventative, as far as I am aware no one is able to foretell how long your current belt will last in the condition it is in at this point in time.
As I said earlier either replace or take your chances.It sounds like you have decided on the course you are going to take.
The reason for timing belts or chains is moving off topic.
the fact that car A does 60000 and 25 years without a replacement does not mean that car B will do likewise.
the running costs of a vehicle should be taken into consideration when buying it and changing the belt kit now is preventative, as far as I am aware no one is able to foretell how long your current belt will last in the condition it is in at this point in time.
As I said earlier either replace or take your chances.In my opinion although the mileage is low you are still at the recommended 5 year interval, I notice this is not halved.
To visually check the belt MAY give an indication of tooth wear and cracks externally but it is not possible to see inside the belt for any wear/broken strands. The rollers and tensioner will be sealed units so you cannot see the condition of grease or bearings etc.
In my opinion I would follow manufacturer recommendations.
The choice at the end of the day is yours but weigh up the cost of a top end rebuild against the cost of a new belt kit.
You could get years out of the current belt but it will need replacing at some point hopefully before it gives up.In my opinion although the mileage is low you are still at the recommended 5 year interval, I notice this is not halved.
To visually check the belt MAY give an indication of tooth wear and cracks externally but it is not possible to see inside the belt for any wear/broken strands. The rollers and tensioner will be sealed units so you cannot see the condition of grease or bearings etc.
In my opinion I would follow manufacturer recommendations.
The choice at the end of the day is yours but weigh up the cost of a top end rebuild against the cost of a new belt kit.
You could get years out of the current belt but it will need replacing at some point hopefully before it gives up.I agree Karl the reason i posted the link is to make people who may have to use adapters such as crows feet aware of change in torque values etc…
I agree Karl the reason i posted the link is to make people who may have to use adapters such as crows feet aware of change in torque values etc…
you will need a dealer or good indipendant with tech2 to hook up to your vehicle.
Although thinking about it was the fault with the pump block or the controller?
If it is the pump block then you can swap your original controller to the new block and therefore will not need to be recoded.you will need a dealer or good indipendant with tech2 to hook up to your vehicle.
Although thinking about it was the fault with the pump block or the controller?
If it is the pump block then you can swap your original controller to the new block and therefore will not need to be recoded.It sounds like you have identified the problematic cylinder. If you are 110% it is not vac air intake fault. Have you pulled the plugs to compare with cylinder 6?
If you do not have access to live data or a scope, my suggestion would be to swap the injector with one from a known good cylinder, if the fault follows the injector you have your answer, if the fault stays with no 6 cylinder you have ruled out injector fault.
It sounds like you have identified the problematic cylinder. If you are 110% it is not vac air intake fault. Have you pulled the plugs to compare with cylinder 6?
If you do not have access to live data or a scope, my suggestion would be to swap the injector with one from a known good cylinder, if the fault follows the injector you have your answer, if the fault stays with no 6 cylinder you have ruled out injector fault.
If fluid can get out air will usually find a way in. Replace slave cylinder if it is leaking, bleed brake system, this will be a good time to renew the fluid as well.
It is usual to have some pedal travel when the engine is started and the servo kicks in.If fluid can get out air will usually find a way in. Replace slave cylinder if it is leaking, bleed brake system, this will be a good time to renew the fluid as well.
It is usual to have some pedal travel when the engine is started and the servo kicks in.have a look here http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/calculator/torque_adapter_extension.htm
to work out the torque settings for using extensions and adaptors