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Well If the o2 sensor was in fact bad, it might take a little while for the code to clear. If you have a code reader you can clear the code manually, or disconnect the neg battery cable for a few minutes and see if the code comes back..
My advice if it is indeed the intake gasket, get the new and improved fel-pro gaskets that are metal instead of the crappy stock plastic gasket. If it gets plastic gaskets it will fail again relatively soon. Also, a coolant flush definitely wouldn’t be a bad idea. I have a 99 s10 with the same engine and almost all those GM v6’s eat gaskets like they are going out of style. Just my 2 cents.
^ Your absolutely right, I got mine switched to regular green antifreeze instead of the dex cool which I believe is red. Dex cool turns acidic pretty quickly plus the plastic gaskets= big time sucks.
If you open the glove box and look for a sticker with a bunch of codes on it usually one of them will indicate what kind of differential it has. I’m not sure the specific code, I hear G80 or G81 is limited slip, but I’m not sure if its any different for an 88. Its not much help but its all I got.
Its probably going through idle relearn since the dead battery wiped the memory from the PCM. I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes. Then reconnect it and start it up (cold engine with all the accessories off, especially air conditioning) Let it idle for as long as it takes to get all the way up to full operating temp. Then put it in gear and let it idle for approximately 5 minutes. After that, shut it off then turn it back on and let it idle for a few more minutes. You should be good to go after that. Let us know if that helps, I had to do the same thing on my truck.
awesome good to hear. its suppose to kind of self correct itself after so many miles but I’ve found that this way works better. Glad I could help with my limited automotive knowledge
If its really hot where you live at it could be as simple as the water evaporating out of the coolant/water mixture, so it looks like you have a leak when you dont. Happened to me here in the great state of Iowa
well i took a look at it again. There seems to be a black wetness (bad explanation) around the middle of the compressor, like around a seal or something. I’m guessing that it began to leak oil and caused the compressor to crap out. Thanks again for all the help, i’ll wait till Spring till i fix it. Interesting that it still blew nice cold air (on the highway) even when the compressor was going bad, now it doesnt blow cold air ever. Anyway, see ya’ll later.
Peace.
Hey Eric (or anyone else) if the compressor is in fact bad is it as simple (I use that term loosely) as removing the old compressor, slapping a new one on and recharging the system? Or is it WAY more complicated than that? I know compressors runs about $200 on up but I was just wondering about everyone saying it cost them more than a thousand dollars to replace it. If its gonna cost that much to replace it I’ll wait till we are studying heating and cooling in my auto tech program and then it wont cost anything for labor. What can ya tell me?
Thanks boss
Well running the ac will rob some power from the engine because it takes engine power to run the ac compressor. I would maybe start with checking for vaccum leaks which could be leaning out the fuel mixture causing a loss of power. Just my 2 cents though, i’m by no means a mechanic
Eric has a video on belts and pulleys you might want to check out. It could be a glazed serpentine belt or maybe a defective belt tensioner or something along those lines… I would check out his video, it will help out tons.
Peace.