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Wow thats weird since the cooling fan is electric and not run by a belt. If I were you I would go ahead and replace the tensioner assembly. Its not real expensive and its good practice to replace the tensioner when you put a new belt on it.
How does the belt feel? Grab a hold of the belt (engine off of course 😛 ) try to twist it side to side. It should only be able to twist 1/4 turn at the most
Practicing tearing down/assembling 4t60 transmissions at school. My partner and I were as clueless about transmissions as you can get. Anyway, after spending over a week frustrated and finding all kinds of creative ways of swearing we finally were about done assembling it. One of the last steps was installing a c-clip on the output shaft. Yep you betcha’, it slipped down into the eternal darkness of various gears and gizmos. Got to tear it down for a 2nd time!!! A:(
Well if the engine isnt running you wont be able to check the clutch unless you jumper the relay or some other way of getting 12 volts to the clutch. Even so, it wont tell you much cuz the engine wont be running. Also, if you look at the front of the ac compressor by the belt when someone turns the ac on you will hear it click and you will see the clutch engage/disengage
It means the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors are reading similiar. The upstream should be switching back and forth from rich to lean while the down stream (after the cat) should be relatively stable. Its possible you have a bad cat, damaged or bad 02 sensor, exhaust leak…. among others
well unless its a VDOT air conditioning system, in which case once you turn the ac on the clutch wont cycle on and off
Quoted From EndSupremacy:
+1 on both of your posts. I do believe it is most likely your cat. If you want to be sure, test your o2 sensors and make sure they are working fine. Also, check for exhaust leaks. You said you had some engine problems? It could possibly be that your computer was used to the engine running bad and now that it is running good, it’s reading lean or rich. Disconnect your battery and let it sit for 30-45 mins. Then re-connect it. The code won’t be there, but drive the car around. If it doesn’t come back, then you don’t have a problem. If it comes back, then do the tests. Just hope it’s not the cat. Don’t know about your car, but a cat for my car cost about $600, and that’s on ebay.
Excellent post!
just pop out the switch and use a testlight to see if you have voltage at the wires while you push down on the button (key on of course)
first off i think i forgot to ask, do ANY of the drivers side switches work? Can you roll down any of the windows using the drivers side switches, including the drivers side window?
If you dont have voltage I would check your relay. Place your finger lightly on the relay and have someone activate the switch. You should be able to feel it click
I believe #15 is the correct one. Im not familiar with acura products but It would be the power window relay in the fuse box. If it doesnt click I would check that you do have power where the relay plugs into the fuse box. If you do, replace the relay.
Also, if the horn or something like that has the exact same relay ( and you know it works) you can swap it out and check the windows. Its also possible that maybe you just got a bad (new) switch
the fact that one of the switches on the d/s master switches work leads me to believe that the relay is probably ok and maybe you have some pinched wires or corrosion. Maybe inspect the switch again and see if anything is out of the ordinary
Also, if you have some jumper wires you could pull the relay out, energize it, and see if you have continuity on the switch side of it
Run the engine to about 2000 rpm and hold it till it gets to operating temp and see if the fan comes on. If it doesnt come on and its at operating temp take a voltmeter or a testlight and check to see if you’re getting voltage at the fan
Quoted From johnbkobb:
When the A/C is turned on the engine cooling fan is energized to stay on until the A/C is turned off.
Yeah that too!
Quoted From johnbkobb:
It’s bad if it has been in the system sucking up moisture and becoming saturated. Whenever the system is opened it MUST be replaced you can’t pull the moisture out of it with vacuum. You can’t recharge them with vacuum they MUST be replaced.
If you’re going to open the system I would advise a system cleaning and replacement of all the O rings and S valves (2 — hi and low side). If there was excessive moisture in the system acid has probably formed inside due to the moisture. After you have your system evacuated of refrigerant give it a good cleaning, install the new receiver drier, vacuum and check for leaks, add the proper refrigerant OIL for what your system needs (less the OIL left in the compressor) do not overfill. Then charge the system with the R134a
FYI if you just replace the receiver /drier you need to add the correct viscosity refrigerant OIL back into the system to replace what will be removed when you take out the old receiver drier. Check the pump manufacturer’s specs for the recommended viscosity of refrigerant OIL to use with that pump and check the vehicle manufacture’s specs as to how much refrigerant OIL is used in the system and how much is attributable to the receiver / drier and only add the amount attributable to the receiver / drier back into the system. It is important not to over or under fill on the refrigerant OIL. Also check the specs on how much refrigerant (R134a) the system needs and do not over or under fill. These are important to obtaining the best efficiency from your A/C system.
Awesome! I was too lazy to type all this but you hit the nail on the head