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Also on these trucks i think you need to do a crank position sensor relearn, whenever u change the sensor. read something about it looking for info on what that plug could be. :cheer: dealer can do it with a computer if there is no manual way to make the truck do it. Maybe in the FSM. good luck
would it be possible to get a picture of said 2 wire plug? i havent looked under the hood of a chevy truck since the 80’s or i may be able to help u better. “love z71’s as a side note”. Anyways. the only thing i could suggest is to run the wire to its length and see what is there. for instance. if it has been plugged in a long time and has been unplugged or knocked loose during previous repairs it should lay a certain way. “kindof like it wants to go in that direction” so look how it is layin and check for a plug. i think your map plugs in on top of your manifold. but other than that i dont know where to tell you to look. a picture would be helpful. Of the plug and the general area where it is found. Hope my words can help u in some small way. have a good one.
would it be possible to get a picture of said 2 wire plug? i havent looked under the hood of a chevy truck since the 80’s or i may be able to help u better. “love z71’s as a side note”. Anyways. the only thing i could suggest is to run the wire to its length and see what is there. for instance. if it has been plugged in a long time and has been unplugged or knocked loose during previous repairs it should lay a certain way. “kindof like it wants to go in that direction” so look how it is layin and check for a plug. i think your map plugs in on top of your manifold. but other than that i dont know where to tell you to look. a picture would be helpful. Of the plug and the general area where it is found. Hope my words can help u in some small way. have a good one.
I am not sure about the 4 cyl, but i have heard of a nissan having problems like yours, and it being related to the cam sensor but not the actual sensor itself. I believe the sensor monitors holes in the cam or something like that, the problem i have heard of is one of this guys holes was clogged up and it was skipping monitoring that one. he mentioned using a mirror and having someone bump the car over really slowly so he could finally see it. and if this is false in your case, sorry i wasted your time.
Hope it helps.
PS UNPLUG THE COIL OR WHATEVER TO BE SAFE WHILE BUMPING THE CAR.
I am not sure about the 4 cyl, but i have heard of a nissan having problems like yours, and it being related to the cam sensor but not the actual sensor itself. I believe the sensor monitors holes in the cam or something like that, the problem i have heard of is one of this guys holes was clogged up and it was skipping monitoring that one. he mentioned using a mirror and having someone bump the car over really slowly so he could finally see it. and if this is false in your case, sorry i wasted your time.
Hope it helps.
PS UNPLUG THE COIL OR WHATEVER TO BE SAFE WHILE BUMPING THE CAR.
i guess i will throw my 2 cents in here as well. Make sure your AC/Heater is OFF when you are watching for your fans to function, as mentioned before after 10ish mins or so they should both come on. That being said. If both do not come on you may have a bad temp relay to your fan. if you turn on the AC/HEAT on a lot of autos it will switch another relay that is a direct one that instantly turns the fan on and cools down your ride. I hope this helped out some. “oh just cause im curious, does it seem like it is taking longer than normal to warm up around town” if so it could be the thermostat stuck open. But from the sounds of it “the heater turning on cooling it instantly” could just be the bad relay connected to the thermal portion.
Hope this helps out. Let us know 🙂
i guess i will throw my 2 cents in here as well. Make sure your AC/Heater is OFF when you are watching for your fans to function, as mentioned before after 10ish mins or so they should both come on. That being said. If both do not come on you may have a bad temp relay to your fan. if you turn on the AC/HEAT on a lot of autos it will switch another relay that is a direct one that instantly turns the fan on and cools down your ride. I hope this helped out some. “oh just cause im curious, does it seem like it is taking longer than normal to warm up around town” if so it could be the thermostat stuck open. But from the sounds of it “the heater turning on cooling it instantly” could just be the bad relay connected to the thermal portion.
Hope this helps out. Let us know 🙂
i also say 180 out on timing. sounds like u did everything right but just ended up on the exhaust stroke. If u get it figured out let us know cause i know im curious.
=)
Good luck, and good job stayin dirty.
i also say 180 out on timing. sounds like u did everything right but just ended up on the exhaust stroke. If u get it figured out let us know cause i know im curious.
=)
Good luck, and good job stayin dirty.
im not very familiar with that model car, but dont rule out the transmission mounting bracket on the cross member if it is a rear wheel drive. “heck maybe even a front wheel drive too, not sure about that one tho.” but if it is mounted to a cross member and the mount uses a rubber type bracket to give it flex “as i had on an 89 ta” then ya. thats probably the problem trans flexing too much and hitting the bottom of the car on take off “lead foot syndrome” also i would check for a broken or loose exhaust hanger. it would allow the same type of “bump” when the car squated on takeoff.
HOpe you get her fixed. have a good one
im not very familiar with that model car, but dont rule out the transmission mounting bracket on the cross member if it is a rear wheel drive. “heck maybe even a front wheel drive too, not sure about that one tho.” but if it is mounted to a cross member and the mount uses a rubber type bracket to give it flex “as i had on an 89 ta” then ya. thats probably the problem trans flexing too much and hitting the bottom of the car on take off “lead foot syndrome” also i would check for a broken or loose exhaust hanger. it would allow the same type of “bump” when the car squated on takeoff.
HOpe you get her fixed. have a good one
I have seen a trans lock up a motor, “but it was while it was still hooked up to the motor” the torque converter ended up being bad. as far as it locking it up when its not in the car…..BUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH. unless i read something wrong of course. :blush:
I have seen a trans lock up a motor, “but it was while it was still hooked up to the motor” the torque converter ended up being bad. as far as it locking it up when its not in the car…..BUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH. unless i read something wrong of course. :blush:
hmm, depending if your “VERY” good with a soldering iron, maybe solder the pin back on? Other than that i would try to find a replacement. “maybe even junk yards” if there are any available.
Good luck and i hope u get it figured out