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[quote=”Bluesnut” post=145058]It’s tragic as can be but I’m having a hard time seeing the mechanic charged with manslaughter.
In the VT case I wonder if the pop was a failed ball joint, tie rod end, strut, engine mount, etc and which in turn caused the brake line to give up[/quote]
I was thinking the same thing pretty much, the pop seems like it would be more like an inner or outer tie rod, resulting loss of steering = crash. never heard a brake line “pop” personally but then again how often do you witness a brake line failing.
What were you doing when the light came on? bumpy road? smooth road? highway? No power at the OBD port is bad for sure, but don’t forget to investigate the ground for the circuit as well, no power without ground. All fuses have been check and are good? I am not sure if you would have a relay for the OBD or not, but you can check the relays under the hood and see the inside cover for a layout of what they are. I would say the ECU is working if they car runs, so i would probably start with Wiring to the plug, the connections to the fuse block, the relays and so on. After that it probably gets a little more hairy, being that a wiring diagram would probably be required to form an informed search. Key was on during OBD attempt? “sorry had to ask” Wiring can be one of the more tricky problems to trouble shoot, Personally i would just do the basic electrical check type stuff and wouldn’t go any further than that without a wiring diagram. Also if you are using a meter and do something wrong you can blow up your ECU, so do your homework on the subject before you attempt to do much with the wiring. knowledge is power, and its also a time / money saver.
Sorry i couldnt be more helpful
Pat
I am not personally familiar with your model of engine, but a lot of rides have 2 temps sensors, one is for the ECU and one is for the gauge. Make sure the ECU one is working properly. Also, a water pump that is starting to get worn will sometimes not pump the coolant properly at idle. If you have AC, try turning your air conditioner on to kick the fans into HI. I know some Manufacturers will tie the fans to the AC to help keep the engine cool under extra load. Based on your findings, this should give you a respectable starting spot. BTW I dont wrench on cars for a living, but i do wrench on a lot of cars. “just letting you know that i am not a class room trained or full time Mechanic.”
hope this points you in the right direction
Pat
Elbow drop it, fix it right up. “kidding” If your brake booster is leaking and it only stalls when you are coming to a stop it would stand to reason that when you brake you have a slight vacuum leak. Next time it starts acting up, take it to an empty parking lot and apply the brakes, when it starts acting up, release the brakes, if the idle goes back up to normal, then BAM it’s a pretty safe bet that replacing the leaking brake booster will solve the problem. looks like someone has some getting dirty in their future, congrats.
Pat
Elbow drop it, fix it right up. “kidding” If your brake booster is leaking and it only stalls when you are coming to a stop it would stand to reason that when you brake you have a slight vacuum leak. Next time it starts acting up, take it to an empty parking lot and apply the brakes, when it starts acting up, release the brakes, if the idle goes back up to normal, then BAM it’s a pretty safe bet that replacing the leaking brake booster will solve the problem. looks like someone has some getting dirty in their future, congrats.
Pat
BFH to remove the axle. =) are you sure he was brake torquing the front wheel drive automobile? 😛 IMHO i believe the shaft broke from abuse. If he has power mods and didn’t strengthen anything else, depending on the power more failures are to come. Interesting thread, thank u for posting
Pat
BFH to remove the axle. =) are you sure he was brake torquing the front wheel drive automobile? 😛 IMHO i believe the shaft broke from abuse. If he has power mods and didn’t strengthen anything else, depending on the power more failures are to come. Interesting thread, thank u for posting
Pat
It never hurts to monitor your Temp with a mechanical gauge, if you take it off road and do a lot of low speed high rev crawling it would at least give you piece of mind.
In my honest opinion cooler is better so i wouldn’t worry about it overly much, unless your running some sort of sensor based EFI and the computer never goes into closed loop because your running it under 160 F. Enjoy your Jeep.Pat
It never hurts to monitor your Temp with a mechanical gauge, if you take it off road and do a lot of low speed high rev crawling it would at least give you piece of mind.
In my honest opinion cooler is better so i wouldn’t worry about it overly much, unless your running some sort of sensor based EFI and the computer never goes into closed loop because your running it under 160 F. Enjoy your Jeep.Pat
Hello,
If you get a multi meter at the auto parts store they will stick it to you a bit, but a big box store, or harbor freight has them for under 10 bux for the basic Voltage / ohm testers. and the battery being good does NOT rule out the cable from the battery to the starter unless you verify Voltage on the starter there is not any real way to know its getting to the starter. a dirty / loose / broken wire would give the same symptoms. Drag once or twice then nothing. “more common than you think” If you wanna do it the super dirty way. u can get a starter switch that you hook directly to your starter, hit the button and if the starter is good and you have hooked it up correctly it will fire. It’s made for do it yourself types that don’t usually have an extra set of hands so you can just start the car from under the hood. but no noise no clicks no nothing sounds like it could be a blown fuse in the ignition circuit somewhere or even a bad relay. Anyways i hope some of this helped ya.Pat
Hello,
If you get a multi meter at the auto parts store they will stick it to you a bit, but a big box store, or harbor freight has them for under 10 bux for the basic Voltage / ohm testers. and the battery being good does NOT rule out the cable from the battery to the starter unless you verify Voltage on the starter there is not any real way to know its getting to the starter. a dirty / loose / broken wire would give the same symptoms. Drag once or twice then nothing. “more common than you think” If you wanna do it the super dirty way. u can get a starter switch that you hook directly to your starter, hit the button and if the starter is good and you have hooked it up correctly it will fire. It’s made for do it yourself types that don’t usually have an extra set of hands so you can just start the car from under the hood. but no noise no clicks no nothing sounds like it could be a blown fuse in the ignition circuit somewhere or even a bad relay. Anyways i hope some of this helped ya.Pat
rip that bad boys timing cover off and take a look. See if the chain is broken or skipped. Line up the marks throw a new chain on it “according to the FSM” and then rotate the engine gently by hand 2 or 3 complete turns on the crank. If you feel resistance or if it feels like you come to a solid stop, then i would say u have a valve or 2 needing some help. Not the end of the world though. Get some junkyard heads and check em for leaks and valve problems or just take your heads or head to a machine shop and have em do a valve job on it. either way its a driveway rescue if you have tools, patients and a little know how. FSM go go. time to get dirty.
Pat
rip that bad boys timing cover off and take a look. See if the chain is broken or skipped. Line up the marks throw a new chain on it “according to the FSM” and then rotate the engine gently by hand 2 or 3 complete turns on the crank. If you feel resistance or if it feels like you come to a solid stop, then i would say u have a valve or 2 needing some help. Not the end of the world though. Get some junkyard heads and check em for leaks and valve problems or just take your heads or head to a machine shop and have em do a valve job on it. either way its a driveway rescue if you have tools, patients and a little know how. FSM go go. time to get dirty.
Pat
Electrical problems can be a challenge even for skilled mechanics. I would say if wiggling the wires “appeared” to fix your problem for now, that you have a wiring issue. “not to state the obvious” But with a car this age wiring can always be a concern. I am not sure why the distributor grounding would cause the fuel pump fuse to blow without blowing anything else unless its in direct line with the distributor. “which is kind of meh” Without a FSM or a schematic it would be hard to say. However I won’t leave you hanging. Here is my suggestion to you. Get yourself an el cheapo multi meter, and some gator extendor clips, next time the fuse blows ” if it does ” meter out the hot wire on the distributor to the fuse. just clip one side of the gator clips to the red lead on the meter the other side to the hot wire on the distributor, the other gator clip to the black lead on the meter and take it with you to the fuse that is blown, if u touch the gator end to the fuse on either side and get a 0 ohm reading or low ohm reading it is in direct line with the Voltage source of the distributor. I would be leaning toward faulty wiring grounding out the circuit rather than the distributor but who is to say without actually tracking it down. i know its not much but its not a bad place to start. The electrical part of the FSM would also be highly recommended so you dont have to waste valuable hours tracking down the circuits. come to think of it disconnect the battery before you start tracking it down and put a jumper on the relay to the fuel pump, because if the relay isnt engaged then even if it were a straight shot or the same source in both places you would not read it as low ohms with the relay open. Anyways, GL again, sorry if i was rambleing a bit but im super tired. long work day.
PAt
Electrical problems can be a challenge even for skilled mechanics. I would say if wiggling the wires “appeared” to fix your problem for now, that you have a wiring issue. “not to state the obvious” But with a car this age wiring can always be a concern. I am not sure why the distributor grounding would cause the fuel pump fuse to blow without blowing anything else unless its in direct line with the distributor. “which is kind of meh” Without a FSM or a schematic it would be hard to say. However I won’t leave you hanging. Here is my suggestion to you. Get yourself an el cheapo multi meter, and some gator extendor clips, next time the fuse blows ” if it does ” meter out the hot wire on the distributor to the fuse. just clip one side of the gator clips to the red lead on the meter the other side to the hot wire on the distributor, the other gator clip to the black lead on the meter and take it with you to the fuse that is blown, if u touch the gator end to the fuse on either side and get a 0 ohm reading or low ohm reading it is in direct line with the Voltage source of the distributor. I would be leaning toward faulty wiring grounding out the circuit rather than the distributor but who is to say without actually tracking it down. i know its not much but its not a bad place to start. The electrical part of the FSM would also be highly recommended so you dont have to waste valuable hours tracking down the circuits. come to think of it disconnect the battery before you start tracking it down and put a jumper on the relay to the fuel pump, because if the relay isnt engaged then even if it were a straight shot or the same source in both places you would not read it as low ohms with the relay open. Anyways, GL again, sorry if i was rambleing a bit but im super tired. long work day.
PAt