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Mix the coolants in a clear bottle and let them sit on your workbench for a while. If they remain clear and nothing precipitates, you’re probably OK.
Not “definitive” but better than nothing.
Gents:
I took some images of the CRV’s filler neck with the hope that a reader might have some ideas about a remove and replace process.
These first images are of the filler neck in the vicinity of the gas cap, on the outside and the inside of the left rear fender. Note that at the corners of the square plastic panel there are some plastic rivets or push fasteners. I suppose if I can’t undo these I can drill them our and replace with some nylon machine screws.
Pretty good resolution so zooming shows details.
Has anyone taken this top filler neck assembly off? Thanks.
The CRV has a black plastic box with emissions “stuff” just inboard of the left rear tire. I inspected all the hoses in and around this black box and found things to be pretty clean and the electrical connectors looking good.
But I did find this wee bit of rubber hose all split apart. This tiny hose connected to the bottom of the tank pressure transducer to a white nylon Y shaped fitting that seems to just vent to atmosphere. So I think it is the reference atmospheric pressure for the transducer. Since it goes to atmosphere, the splits shouldn’t be causing my P1456 code. But I put in a new bit of hose anyway.
I’ll keep at it……taking frequent breaks to swear and laugh.
Thanks Eric.
Smoke would be a nice way to see the leaking filler neck for an accurate diagnosis, and avoid the possibility of wasted money and effort.
The video of the homemade smoke machine did make me cringe a bit from a safety standpoint, as smoke is combustible and can flash fire. And smoke is dirty sooty grime that I’m not sure I want in the car’s fuel system. Even if the 1999 Honda CRV is a bit of a beater.
What I may try is to slightly pressurize the tank and splash some soapy water on the rusty filler neck and look for bubbles. Like we do for tire punctures.
I’ll update……………………….
Thanks Moderator.
I found that video pretty quickly as well, and it is a bit helpful. But the CRV’s filler pipe has some important differences.
First, my filler pipe location is much tighter with lots of “frame and suspension stuff” very close to it, and I can’t visualize how to pull it out once the bolts are removed and the hoses slipped off.
Second, I’m slow to figure out how the pipe is attached at the top at the fender. Some pipes (Dorman) seem to be sold complete with the top plastic piece, and some pipes are sold without the plastic top mount piece.
My best guess at this point is that the CRV’s filler pipe has to be removed, up, through, and out of the square hole in the fender. And the new pipe, down and though the fender.
I have the Honda factory workshop manual and it fails to address “fuel filler pipe replacement”
I’ll be grateful for further help.
Thanks.
Great series of “busting hump” videos.
I’m not sure I like to work that hard, but I like to watch others working hard!
Thanks.
Great series of videos. I really like those videos where you are working hard and working well and keep a sense of humor about the inevitable trials that arise. Don’t get too lost in the softie videos.
Did the hammer blows used to assemble the hub and bearing retainer get transmitted through the taper roller bearing?
If so, the raised stresses in the bearing races and rollers will give a very early bearing failure.
It always amazes me that my wife’s 1999 Honda CRV has 360 000 km, and the front (and rear) struts are still very good. Some things are made very well these days. Or at least in the 1990s.
Also, I’ll suggest that the fluid in the strut “damps” based on viscosity and not compressibility. The rate of fluid flow through those disc orifices is controlled by viscosity for a given force. The viscosity of air is very low, hence little damping when the oil is gone.
And in strict language “to dampen” is to add water to make something moist. “To damp” is the engineering term used to describe minimizing oscillations, vibrations, and the like.
Quite typical. They just want your money. They don’t really want to earn your money.
And, there will be a young man with truck fever, and less mechanical knowledge, who will buy it next week.
So it’s actually the perfect deal. You don’t need then, and they don’t need you. As such, I’ve walked from “deals” very frequently.
Help me with my balance of forces, please.
If the center of mass of the car is exactly between the vertical posts, then the total load is straight down through the posts. Good, no problem and buckling loads are pretty reliably calculated.
If the center of mass is aft of the vertical posts, the then posts will experience a torque that want to rotate the posts about their attachment points at the floor. Same deal if the center of mass is afore the posts, just torques opposite direction..
At what mass value, and at what distance from the vertical posts, does the whole shebang torque the posts out of the concrete floor and every thing falls down?
I don’t think I’d get under the raised car on a two poster unless I absolutely knew the answer to that important question.
[quote=”Hanneman” post=130057]Solid video.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=129986]What am I missing here guys? Where is that 16.6 V coming from? My charger doesn’t put out 16.6 V.[/quote]
There are a variety of charging routines for lead acid batteries. Your charger may use a method that tries to maintain a constant current during the charging process, and the voltage is allowed to float (just a guess).
As the battery reaches its full capacity, it takes more energy to “squeeze” those last electrons back into the electrode plates, so the charger has to increase the applied voltage to maintain a constant charging current. I imagine the effort and finesse required to close the junk drawer as more stuff is added to it.
Your battery is new, and the specific gravity should be on the high end of scale. This is one of the reasons why the open circuit voltage is higher for a new battery compared to an older one. This also means that a higher voltage is required to charge a new vs an older battery. This might explain why you’re seeing 16.6V instead of 14.7V.[/quote]
I don’t really know, but I think my charger is a simple voltage device, and the current falls as the battery charges.
My open circuit charger gives 14.7 V, but when I put it on a VRLA battery it climbs to 16.6 V. More normally, when I put it on a conventional lead acid battery the charger’s output drops to about 13.7 V.
When Eric loaded his Fairmont battery the battery’s voltage dropped from 12.6 to 10.3 V. When I put any load on my charger (battery or bulb) it’s voltage output drops. Which I think is normal for any power source.
So why, when my load is a VRLA battery, does the charger’s (or battery’s) output go to 16.6 V? I sure don’t know.
Maybe some other’s can give it a try too and share the findings.
Thanks for the battery video. Who can explain the following information that I’ve verified several times using a laboratory quality Fluke VOM?
I bought a new motorcycle battery by mail order and it was a modern VRLA battery. Valve Regulated Lead Acid battery, which is sealed maintenance free. I opened the box and my new battery with no load gave a voltage of 12.89 V. Great. Nicely charged as delivered. But I put it on my small 4 amp charger anyway, and the ammeter on the charger started near 3 A, but within a minute fell to less than 1 A. Which I consider normal behavior. Then with the charger in place, and pushing in less than 1 A, I took a voltage across the battery and was shocked to see 16.6 V. No typo, 16.6 V. I quickly took off the charger and measured the voltage across the charger with no load, which was 14.7 V.
And I repeated all the above two more times for verification.
How can the voltage across the charger when connected to the VRLA battery be 16.6 V when my charger only puts out 14.7 V at no load?
With a non VRLA battery, and the charger connected I see a hair less than 14.7 V, which is just what I expect.
So I took the VRLA battery out of my Accord, and same thing as the motorcycle battery, 16.6 V while charging.
What am I missing here guys? Where is that 16.6 V coming from? My charger doesn’t put out 16.6 V.
