Forum Replies Created
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Because the pinion is conical, moving the pinion axially towards the ring gear should decrease backlash, and, oppositely moving the pinion axially away from the ring gear will increase backlash.
That means that one needs to cycle back and forth between backlash and tooth contact patterns a few times to home in on the right meshing of the gears.
Such is certainly the case for rebuilding the right angle bevel drive ring and pinion gearing on “shafty” motorcycles.
My 30 y old Craftsman hand impact makes faster and quieter work on those screws than that air tool attachment.
And I don’t have to run over to an air regulator valve to adjust my hammer blows.
Don’t underestimate the manufacturing quality and all the DOT and SAE specifications out there for brake hose. All derived from safety requirements, these hoses are a highly engineered product.
Also, there is still a hose inside the steel braided brake lines. And the steel braiding does little to contain the radial expansion of the hose that occurs with internal pressure.
From day one, the steel braided brake line was just an armoured brake line to prevent chaffing and other things like rock hits that might “wound” a rubber hose. Better braking or braking feel has just been a convenient advertizing myth which entirely suits the vendors.
That’s a great “busting hump” video. I like to watch you work hard while I relax!
Question.
That extended tensioner has me puzzled. It’s heavily varnished where it has been exposed to dirty oil. Then all the sudden it’s quite clean or unvarnished for about a centimeter. This suggests that the tensioner did not extend gradually with gradual cam chain wear, but popped out rather suddenly. If cam chain wear was gradual, then tensioner extension would be gradual, and the varnishing would be more uniform.
What would had made that tensioner extend so much so suddenly?
Thanks……………………….
Hondas and Toyotas have hauled me around since 1977. I run them until they drop, which is usually rust of body work. In the average 15 years of a cars life I’ve change the PSF about every 5 years. Never had any rack problems. The first Honda had no PS.
The following is copied verbatim from Michelin.com……… Take your pick and preference!!
“Deeper tread tires on the rear axle provide better handling, wet grip, and evacuate water, thereby helping to avoid oversteer and loss of vehicle stability on wet surfaces. Deeper tread tires on the front axle can improve wet straight line braking and stopping distance. If only two tires are being replaced, Michelin generally recommends they be installed on the rear axle in the absence of a tire service professional’s recommendation or consumer’s preference to the contrary.”
It’s commendable to try and answer this controversial question, but I’ll put my best tires for steering control. And I’ll put my best tires for maximum braking. With FWD, we kill both those birds with the tires up front.
The real circumstance where low traction in the rear become a problem is when the rears track outside of the front’s tracks where snow or water is mostly cleared. This happens in low radius turns and skids. Even on just water on a warn day, the rears can hydroplane with loss of directional control if they track outside of the front’s cleared path.
In the final analysis, slowing down always works, even better than four new tires.
As many know, bolt stretch is really the accurate method of tensile load from a fastener.
This is because all of the friction in threads makes torque readings very approximate.
Throw on top of thread friction, the uses of dry threads, new versus old threads, somewhat damaged threads, depth of thread engagement, disimilar metals such as stainless going into cast iron, use of oil on threads, use of anti-seize on threads, then the torque wrench begone to look like a tool not to bother with.
Never had a brake slave piston seize up having owned lots of cars since 1976.
Why would it seize?
Torn boot seal or really acidic and old brake fluid?
Don’t forget the effects of wind on car tracking.
My wife’s 1999 CRV presents a big broadside to cross winds and you’ve got to steer into the wind considerably.
Oppositely my 2003 Accord Coupe hardly feels cross winds unless mother nature is really howling.
The issue being…………not to get tricked into thinking you need an allignment on a windy day
My wife’s 1999 CRV has 380 000 km on it. I’ve dumped about every brand of coolant into it without flushing or worryring much about silicates or other components. The radiator and other things seem very clean. Thermostat is original.
It’s on its original OEM coolant pump, but the seal does weep a bit.
The old heap may meet the crusher before I offer it a new pump!!
Great video. Very positive in all directions.
What is the function of those strange snaked around springs? Do they stop outboard pad rattle?
It’s not a practice I’d recommend on a customer car or a new car, but for my older rolling jalopies, those sealed for life (short life) suspension joints get injected with a grease gun fitted with a syringe needle.
Sure, the needle punctures the rubber, but the rubber is kind of self sealing. Pump up the rubber seal until it swells a bit from the extra grease. But don’t blow the seal apart.
I started doing this years ago with no problems.