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Sounds like maybe a bad main ground. If you use a jumper cable to connect the engine block to the battery’s negative terminal, does the car start?
Oh man, through the pan like a BMW? That sucks. I actually have the subframe off a 335xi right now. I hate that crap. What kind of car is it?
Personally, I’d run the engine for a few minutes to get the piece off the baffle, then drain the oil like you suggested.
If you end up tearing the whole thing apart, you use an engine support bar. They’re like $70 from Harbor Freight after 20% coupon and sales tax.Dozens of things can cause stalling. What makes you suspect this one? There must be some reason, especially given your knowledge of the pin counts.
It’ll probably sit at the bottom of the oil pan forever and never cause trouble. Safer, however, to pull the pan.
Oil pans are pretty easy, except for AWD BMWs. Saving a few bucks on this is nowhere near worth the price of failure.
How did the AC belt get theough the timing cover?
Your chances of getting through this without getting your heads rebuilt are slim. Replace the timing belt and test compression. Be ready to pull the engine.Changing parts at random is the expensive way to not fix your car.
Step 1: using a scanner with live data, what are your fuel trims at idle, 2500, and 4000 RPM?
How consistent is the hesitation? Every time, occasionally? On full throttle, part throttle, both? Throughout the acceleration, or just for a moment? Is it worst at a particular RPM range? Any noticeable noises?
