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Pic would help, but it sounds like you’re talking about a stud in an exhaust flange. Those can be just press-fitted or tack welded. Easiest approach is remove the pipe, secure the flange against a vise anvil, etc., get the flange hot, and beat out the stud with a big-ass hammer.
If it’s welded, you may need to drill it out.If it’s pinging at the same time it’s making negative fuel corrections, I would suspect a bad O2 sensor or MAP sensor. You can check the MAP sensor against a vacuum gauge.
I would check MAF voltage against spec for expected airflow at high RPM. Or swap in a known good MAF sensor if available.
BTW, your English is perfect; not sure what you’re talking about there.
How did you check for vacuum leaks? Have you tested the brake booster for leaks? What are your fuel trims at idle, 2500, and 4000 RPM?
Coolant in the crankcase can do damage, but that’s relatively uncommon. Has it been verified that has happened here?
When it has the problem, see if it has voltage at the starter. If not, follow upstream. If yes, check main grounds, replace starter.
Plastic end tanks are very common. They do wear out, but not usually catastrophically or anywhere near so quickly.
I hate to endorse parts swapping, but the cruise control module under the dash is the most common culprit for these symptoms, and I don’t personally have a proper diagnostic procedure, so grabbing a used one from eBay seems like a reasonable gamble.
If you don’t trust your mechanic, get a second opinion. If you want to fix it yourself, start by buying or borrowing an OBD / VAG-COM scanner.
Assuming there’s no side or bottom access, which the video doesn’t show.
If it’s loose, use a magnet or something long and JB Weld.
If it’s tight, use a long drill bit, then a long EZOut or thread in something long (bolt or bike spoke) with red threadlocker.