[Billy]

CLR

[Billy]

Sounds like a short to ground downstream from the fuse. Check resistance between the fuse and ground, expect it to be very low.
Using the circuit diagram, disconnect components downstream of the fuse till the resistance increases. Then investigate the last component.

[Billy]

If the engine is running, and you have less than 13V at the alternator, and the alternator exciter is hot, then the alternator is bad.

[Billy]

When having the problem, do you have 12V at the solenoid? If so, check grounds and get starter tested. If not, check the relay, then the starter interlock switch, then the ignition switch.
Checking the grounds should really be your starting point.

[Billy]

Have you addressed the MAP sensor?

[Billy]

It vibrates the same when driving or off the ground?
Is there any play in the differential carrier bearing? You can tell by grabbing the inner CV joint cup and wiggling it.

[Billy]

That’s how open differentials work.

[Billy]

So are you getting a P0106 or not?

[Billy]

What’s the alternator voltage when the engine is running?

[Billy]

What problem did you find? Sounds like crossed/shorted/tampered wiring up in there.

[Billy]

First – did you get an OEM cap? Aftermarket caps can cause problems.
The cap lets coolant and air out as the system heats up, and draws coolant back in as the system cools. If it does not let coolant back in as the system cools, you can get a relative vacuum that might collapse the hose.

[Billy]

Ramps and jackstands can be very dangerous. Depending on the ramps, the car can back off the ramps and tip the jackstands. I’ve seen it happen. Two pairs of jaackstands is safer.
Regarding level, if it looks level, it’s level enough. Very easy to make it level with two identical pairs of jackstands.

[Billy]

Get an alignment.

[Billy]

Check tranny fluid level and condition.

[Billy]

Sounds like the frame/subframe mounting point where the rack attaches is bent.

[Author]

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