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Are you saying the car dies instantly when you turn the headlights on, or does the battery drain to low voltage over a period of minutes and then the car dies? If the latter, check your alternator. To do that, while the car is running, check the voltage across the battery terminals. It should be about 14V. If it’s less than 13, the alternator or associated wiring is bad.
1. Threads damaged by over-torqueing as you suspected. This happens when someone puts them on with an air wrench instead of hand torqueing.
2. Nope, studs must be replaced. See if the shop will work with you.
Strange that many mechanics wouldn’t have heard of this problem. It’s a very common symptom of a bad purge valve. No CEL/codes?
The inability to turn the wheels suggests that the transmission may be bad as the seller warned you. Re the low voltage code, check the battery connections and grounds. What is the voltage across the battery terminals?
Not really, but try moving the ignition coil from the cylinder with the most misfires to the one with the least, and see if the misfire counts follow. If not, do the same for the spark plugs.
How did you come to the conclusion that it’s a dirty fuel system? What are your fuel trims at idle, 2000, and 4000 RPM? Any CEL/codes?
How are these not significant?
In answer to your question, more than the car is worth.
Front brakes – $500ish
Rack & tie rods – $1500-2000
Control arms & struts – $1200-1500
Shocks – $600ish
Tires – $1000
Alignment with toe arm & adjuster replacement – $400+
Multiple major leaks – sky’s the limit