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If you are talking about the hose when the engine is completely cooled being hard, then you likely need to replace it. The lower radiator hose is designed to be stiff however, to avoid it from collapsing from the water pump pulling coolant from the radiator.
As far as the gurgling goes, the overflow reservoir shouldn’t make noise unless the radiator cap is leaking or the pressure in the system is strong enough to force it open. You may want to check/replace your radiator cap.
First try to spin the fan by hand and see if it spins freely. If it binds up or doesn’t spin freely, then there’s a high chance the motor is done for.
To test the fan, it should be a single speed fan with 2 wires. One is ground and the other is power. The black wire should be the ground and the other wire would be for 12v. Ground the ground to a good body ground or the ground side of the battery and then hook up a wire to the positive post and touch it to the other terminal. The fan should immediately start to spin if you have it hooked up correctly. You can try to turn the fan by hand and see if it will turn by itself with power hooked up to it ( but be careful, obviously a spinning fan can hurt your finger! )
If the fan fails the test, then it’s time for a new fan. If the fan works, then you will want to find the fan relay so that you can jump it and see if the fan turns on. If it doesn’t, then you will want to test for 12v at the plug for the fan.
If the fan works by jumping the relay, then the temperature sensor is likely the bad component.
First try to spin the fan by hand and see if it spins freely. If it binds up or doesn’t spin freely, then there’s a high chance the motor is done for.
To test the fan, it should be a single speed fan with 2 wires. One is ground and the other is power. The black wire should be the ground and the other wire would be for 12v. Ground the ground to a good body ground or the ground side of the battery and then hook up a wire to the positive post and touch it to the other terminal. The fan should immediately start to spin if you have it hooked up correctly. You can try to turn the fan by hand and see if it will turn by itself with power hooked up to it ( but be careful, obviously a spinning fan can hurt your finger! )
If the fan fails the test, then it’s time for a new fan. If the fan works, then you will want to find the fan relay so that you can jump it and see if the fan turns on. If it doesn’t, then you will want to test for 12v at the plug for the fan.
If the fan works by jumping the relay, then the temperature sensor is likely the bad component.
Ah, well thanks for the clarification on the tool..I have a few “friends” that may have one, so I will have to check around.
I dunno. The codes come on, then they go away. They go away when it’s “misty” outside and then come back, but then they go away for no real reason, and then come back. I’ve got to be hovering on the edge of whatever parameter sets the codes off, but I just can’t see what exactly it is that sets the code. I know that it has to be in a state for a certain amount of time before the code actually sets.
My neighbor just had the same codes pop up on his expedition, but his was the suspect PCV elbow and easily diagnosed ( fuel trims went closer to zero with more throttle, and you could hear it sucking air, especially when you shut the motor off and the last few gasps of air were drawn through it ).
I’d like to think it’s something simple, but I haven’t been able to find it. I sprayed the entire upper half of the motor with a spray bottle and had no change in rpm, smoothness or sensor readings. The fact that my fuel trim readings went to almost 60% combined under medium throttle with the screened MAF and not that high with the non screened MAF have me baffled.
As it sits, the van at 19 LTFT and hovers above and below 0 for my STFT.
The lack of rear O2 sensors ( which have been disabled in the computer…they read .445-.450v on my scan tool )is what the local mechanic blamed on my codes, but to the best of my reading about O2 sensors, the rear O2 sensors main job is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converters. Am I wrong in this assessment?
Ah, well thanks for the clarification on the tool..I have a few “friends” that may have one, so I will have to check around.
I dunno. The codes come on, then they go away. They go away when it’s “misty” outside and then come back, but then they go away for no real reason, and then come back. I’ve got to be hovering on the edge of whatever parameter sets the codes off, but I just can’t see what exactly it is that sets the code. I know that it has to be in a state for a certain amount of time before the code actually sets.
My neighbor just had the same codes pop up on his expedition, but his was the suspect PCV elbow and easily diagnosed ( fuel trims went closer to zero with more throttle, and you could hear it sucking air, especially when you shut the motor off and the last few gasps of air were drawn through it ).
I’d like to think it’s something simple, but I haven’t been able to find it. I sprayed the entire upper half of the motor with a spray bottle and had no change in rpm, smoothness or sensor readings. The fact that my fuel trim readings went to almost 60% combined under medium throttle with the screened MAF and not that high with the non screened MAF have me baffled.
As it sits, the van at 19 LTFT and hovers above and below 0 for my STFT.
The lack of rear O2 sensors ( which have been disabled in the computer…they read .445-.450v on my scan tool )is what the local mechanic blamed on my codes, but to the best of my reading about O2 sensors, the rear O2 sensors main job is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converters. Am I wrong in this assessment?
New Calipers are about the same price as the rotors. Rebuilding them can be a pain if you have problems with the piston seals. You can always try to clean up the slides and see if that helps. I’d do a brake fluid flush while you are at it, especially if you replace the calipers.
Sometimes you can get the rotors turned and it will get rid of the pulsation, but sometimes that heat creates a hard spot in the metal.
Depends really on how much time you have to monkey with fixing the brakes. Always do them in pairs though…pads, rotors and calipers.
New Calipers are about the same price as the rotors. Rebuilding them can be a pain if you have problems with the piston seals. You can always try to clean up the slides and see if that helps. I’d do a brake fluid flush while you are at it, especially if you replace the calipers.
Sometimes you can get the rotors turned and it will get rid of the pulsation, but sometimes that heat creates a hard spot in the metal.
Depends really on how much time you have to monkey with fixing the brakes. Always do them in pairs though…pads, rotors and calipers.
Well, I’d say it’s a good reason to fix that tailshaft leak, at the very least.
Usually bubbles in fluid where no air is being introduced ( full transmission, fluid pumps immersed in fluid ) is caused by cavitation. As an example, an outboard motor with a nicked up propeller will cavitate and eventually erode the edge of the prop due to this. What happens is on the edge of the blade, a nick is causing the fluid to boil. Notice how air bubbles form at the bottom of a boiling pan of water? Same concept. The friction from the nick not slicing through the water causes it to boil in that one specific spot. Eventually that nick will be eroded away to something less sharp and more organic in shape, but the prop will be less effective.
Personally, I’d replace the leaking seal and keep an eye on the transmission fluid. I’ve had other vehicles where I’d had some bubbles in the fluid and they ran strong and never gave me problems. I think the harder shift at 45mph would be more of a problem to focus on. that could be debris in the valve body or a sticking solenoid in the transmission.
Well, I’d say it’s a good reason to fix that tailshaft leak, at the very least.
Usually bubbles in fluid where no air is being introduced ( full transmission, fluid pumps immersed in fluid ) is caused by cavitation. As an example, an outboard motor with a nicked up propeller will cavitate and eventually erode the edge of the prop due to this. What happens is on the edge of the blade, a nick is causing the fluid to boil. Notice how air bubbles form at the bottom of a boiling pan of water? Same concept. The friction from the nick not slicing through the water causes it to boil in that one specific spot. Eventually that nick will be eroded away to something less sharp and more organic in shape, but the prop will be less effective.
Personally, I’d replace the leaking seal and keep an eye on the transmission fluid. I’ve had other vehicles where I’d had some bubbles in the fluid and they ran strong and never gave me problems. I think the harder shift at 45mph would be more of a problem to focus on. that could be debris in the valve body or a sticking solenoid in the transmission.
You’ll want to check the PCV hose for deterioration. Likely there is a split hose there or possibly another vacuum line that has come loose or broke. That’s causing extra unmetered air to enter the engine causing the code. The reason it idles in neutral is because it’s not under load and the computer can compensate the fuel needed to keep the air/fuel ration in its sweet spot. Under load changes the calculation the computer makes and runs past the limit on how much it can compensate for, causing a true lean condition that will cause stalling.
The PCV hose is the likely component due to the amount of chemicals ( fuel, oil, blow by gasses ) that contact the hose and break it down. Normal rubber vacuum line usually just breaks down due to drying out due to the heat. PCV hoses harden and become brittle or soften and split depending on the type of material used to make the hose.
You’ll want to check the PCV hose for deterioration. Likely there is a split hose there or possibly another vacuum line that has come loose or broke. That’s causing extra unmetered air to enter the engine causing the code. The reason it idles in neutral is because it’s not under load and the computer can compensate the fuel needed to keep the air/fuel ration in its sweet spot. Under load changes the calculation the computer makes and runs past the limit on how much it can compensate for, causing a true lean condition that will cause stalling.
The PCV hose is the likely component due to the amount of chemicals ( fuel, oil, blow by gasses ) that contact the hose and break it down. Normal rubber vacuum line usually just breaks down due to drying out due to the heat. PCV hoses harden and become brittle or soften and split depending on the type of material used to make the hose.
Likely you are either torquing the lug nuts down too tight, or the more likely culprit is the calipers. If the calipers aren’t bled properly or are sticking due to corrosion or lack of lubrication( either the slides or the piston in its bore-due to moisture collecting in the brake fluid and causing pitting/corrosion ), they won’t release properly and then will ride the rotors and heat them up. Then, when you come to a stop and park the car, the brake pads will insulate just that part of the rotor causing it to retain heat longer than the rest of the rotor….and warp it.
Likely you are either torquing the lug nuts down too tight, or the more likely culprit is the calipers. If the calipers aren’t bled properly or are sticking due to corrosion or lack of lubrication( either the slides or the piston in its bore-due to moisture collecting in the brake fluid and causing pitting/corrosion ), they won’t release properly and then will ride the rotors and heat them up. Then, when you come to a stop and park the car, the brake pads will insulate just that part of the rotor causing it to retain heat longer than the rest of the rotor….and warp it.